"They don't make those things anymore"

[occupant]

Well, they do, they just charge $195 or $260 for them.

'76 Gran Torino disc brake proportioning valve. It's cast iron. So I'm faced with a dilemma because no new valves are available that aren't pricey.

1) Bite the bullet and spend the $195 for the new valve from a truck which carries the identical part number as mine.

2) Pray a company comes out with a rebuild kit for it (a Cougar parts company makes them for 67-73 Cougars but not 74+ models and they have not replied to my inquiry about making a kit for later models)

3) Attempt to clean out the valve in the parts wagon I have which has the same valve but has been sitting undriven for 17 years.

4) Attempt to clean out the valve on my car.

5) Drive it as is with front brakes only and a good pedal and it really seems to drive fine but I'm worried my rear wheel cylinders will dry up and fail. Considering I've just put ALL NEW PARTS in my rear brakes, I don't want to see them come exploding apart again.

6) Keep searching junkyards for 72-79 Ford intermediates and 75-79 pickups and 78-79 Broncos that were driven in with functional brakes and the valves on them are known good parts.

What do you guys think?

 

[oilboy123]

Performance aftermarket adjustable and adapt it to fit? Maybe an option. Jegs parts or someplace like that.... sad that it is so expensive.

I loved the movie Gran Torino........nice car. Good luck

 

[occupant]

I'd really rather keep it stock because a knob under the hood is just inviting my 8-year old to mess with it. Here's a pic of the stock valve mounted in the crusty old wagon:

I've looked at some how-tos on cleaning the valve for another make (GM) and I think it's about the same deal, mine doesn't leak, so I don't really need the O-rings and might get lucky pulling it apart that they don't crumble, but I might need to replace the spring inside, it may be rusted badly.

 

[andyd]

HMMN, my 88 Grand Wagoneer uses a proportioning valve that I think is an original Ford part. Jeeps being the rust buckets they are, I have replaced every line and major component at least once. Never the P valve. If you cant get the rear brakes working, mebbe there is a leak.

 

[mpvue]

whats rockauto charge for them?

 

[eljefino]

Some trucks have a limiter that's in series with the rear brake lines. The MC has or could have an equal split/ tee then the pressure is limited by this whoozit.

It attaches by a thin rod to the rear suspension and limits brake application under a light payload while allowing it under heavy. You could attach, say, a turnbuckle to the rod to tweak it how you like.

These things predated rear wheel ABS which appeared around 1990.

 

[Gary Allan]

I don't think you will see a "load sensitive" proportioning valve on anything out of Detroit that wasn't FWD. The metering blocks and proportioning valves were more or less pretty static items until you got into FWD and stuff like minivans. Foreign stuff had them first ..at least in the popular models.

 

[Dualie]

RWD ford pickups had them. i was having FITS with my F-250 until i bit the bullet and replaced the rear proportioning valve on it.

uses a weird rube Goldberg scissor linkage thing to bias the brakes front or rear depending on the load and ride height of the rear end of the truck.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Dualie
RWD ford pickups had them. i was having FITS with my F-250 until i bit the bullet and replaced the rear proportioning valve on it.

uses a weird rube Goldberg scissor linkage thing to bias the brakes front or rear depending on the load and ride height of the rear end of the truck.


LOL, that reminds me of the "ABS" my '88 F-250 had

 

[Kestas]

Good thing you posted the picture. Now I understand why you want the keep it stock. I'd hate to adapt the lines to make something else fit.

First, see if you can remove the present unit. Maybe you can clean it out or have it rebuilt. I'll be honest and say that I don't know what the internals look like. Being cast iron, I'd guess there's internal corrosion and crud. (Thankfully, my 71 Cutlass uses a brass unit).

Keep looking for people that may be parting out candidate vehicles... eBay, craigslist.

 

[swalve]

I'd vote for remove and clean. Most things like this can be fixed by a good cleaning.

Or, gut the thing so it is just pass-through and install some other kind of proportioner in-line somewhere else.

 

[Dualie]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Dualie
RWD ford pickups had them. i was having FITS with my F-250 until i bit the bullet and replaced the rear proportioning valve on it.

uses a weird rube Goldberg scissor linkage thing to bias the brakes front or rear depending on the load and ride height of the rear end of the truck.


LOL, that reminds me of the "ABS" my '88 F-250 had

you mean the "ABS" that cut rear braking in half and locked up your steer tires. Cuz really who needs to steer and brake at the same time?


as far as the original poster is concerned i would shop around for it. Some obsolete parts sources can find one for your fairly cheep. its not going to be super easy but there our there.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: Dualie


as far as the original poster is concerned i would shop around for it. Some obsolete parts sources can find one for your fairly cheep. its not going to be super easy but there our there.


I'll second that opinion. As far as the proportioning valve for the earlier Cougars mentioned, I got the last one listed on a nationwide parts search from the dealerships about 15 years ago. There was one shown half way across the country and I had to wait about a week to get it.
To the original poster, have you tried Green Ford? I've purchased from them a few times. They specialize in discontinued Ford parts. Google them to find their contact number. I'd love to walk through their inventory some time.
I hate to recommend them, but if you continually search for it on ebay, eventually you'll find it. It doesn't help you in the mean time though.

 

[SteveSRT8]

While commonly referred to as a proportioning valve, what this really does is make sure the front brakes come up to pressure before the rear.

Disassemble and clean. It will be easy if you soak the whole [censored] thing in solvent for a week first!

 

[froggy81500]

proportioning valves were designed to bias brake pressure to the front instead of the rear. Locking up the rear brakes is a good way to spin the back end around, which is not good in an emergency situation. The proportioning valve is supposed to keep that from happening by allowing more hydraulic pressure to the front axle and less to the rear.

 

[JackFish]

For the price of a new valve you might be able to get an ultrasonic cleaner. I use mine all the time for nuts and bolts, carb parts...wish it was bigger.
Your wife got jewellry?

 

[alreadygone]

Have you checked for a re-built from A1-Cardone?

Bob

 

[mechtech2]

Older proportioning valves kept about 3 lbs of pressure in the rear drum system, to help overcome the return spring pressure of the shoes.
Actual proportioning of the pressure may also be done by the valve, or by the master cylinder construction.

 

[Propflux01]

Take the one off your 'sitter'. As long as the brake system hasn't been opened on it, it should be good. Flush with brake fluid and go with it.