The Flair 58

Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
5,217
Location
Dickson, TN.
Wife got it for me for Christmas and I’m just getting around to posting.

Man. I’m enjoying this thing!

It is simple, elegant, and is capable of producing espresso that equals, in quality, that of machines costing thousands of dollars.

Manually-operated, lever-actuated espresso presses aren’t new, but the 58 is the first, that I’m aware of, that solves the problem of brewing temperature, which exists in this class of espresso brewers.

In order to brew proper espresso, temperature is critical. Depending on roast level of your chosen beans, brew water temp of approximately 195°F - 205°F is needed, similar to brewing drip coffee. And the problem with manual espresso presses is that they must be preheated quite thouroughly using boiling water, often a couple of times, to prevent the brew being underextracted.

With the 58, Flair solved this problem by integrating electric preheating of the brewhead! And it only takes about 5 minutes. However, if I have time, I will often let it preheat longer than that in order to preheat the portafilter and puck screen as well, those steam from the kettle can also be used to do this.

Another really cool thing about the 58 is that it uses a 58 mm portafilter (hence its name), which is the standard size for commercial espresso machines. That means that one can use any of the myriad of porta filter, baskets, tampers, and other accessories that are designed for commercial espresso machines.

i’ve been playing with it for about a month now, and I’m in heaven. I can make café quality espresso at home!

Another huge benefit, from my view, is that there’s almost zero maintenance. With electric espresso machines, there is the need to descale. But with this, there’s really nothing to descale. I guess it’s possible that over time, some deposits could accumulate on the piston, but it’s a simple affair to pop it out and hit it with a toothbrush and some Cafiza. I’m told that it’s good to apply a light film of DC111 to the o-rings (very easy) from time to time, which I will do.

But, yeah, this thing is FUN to use, and makes some absolutely delicious espresso!

Its really a “BITOGer’s” espresso maker, I think!

Accessories I’m using with it so far include the 1Zpresso X-Pro S manual hand grinder, Timemore Black Mirror Mini scale, OXO adjustable-temp gooseneck kettle, Normcore 58mm dosing funnel V2, and MHW-3BOMBER auto-leveling tamper (it came with a palm tamper, but the auto-leveling tamper is more consistent as well as quicker). Also have a no-name WDT needle distribution tool I got from Amazon.

Highly recommend, if you’re a coffee nerd such as myself, want excellent, cafe-quality espresso at home, and don’t want to spend thousands of dollars to get it!
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Here’s a clip of pulling a shot with the 58. Not a lot of Crema because this was just Dunkin Donuts Original, and it wasn’t all that fresh.

You need pretty fresh coffee to get a good amount of crema, because it comes from the CO2 that’s trapped in the coffee, which gets released upon brewing.

I took this clip at 4K, 60FPS with my iPhone 11, however, unfortunately, YouTube has compressed the video, which degrades the quality a little bit.

 
No doubt many that have manual levers like the Flair, Robot, etc. really like the simplicity and end result. Personally I will pass on them for a few reasons. Given that I'm cranking out 6+ doubles daily that would get old routine-wise and I question the overall strength of the lever design holding up to grinding on the finer side. Yrs ago I had an Olympia Cremina which is the tank-like tried/true manual lever and my level of fine grinding would cause even the lever of that beast to flex a bit. These days I'm going near Turkish fine to really purposely overextract and would likely damage a Flair or Robot in the process. Having said that, it should work quite well for most enthusiasts. I personally would raise my expectations a bit as the mention of cafe quality espresso is a letdown as I've yet to find a single shop that was worth a repeat visit, which is why I roast/extract at home as nothing else has came close over the yrs.
 
No doubt many that have manual levers like the Flair, Robot, etc. really like the simplicity and end result. Personally I will pass on them for a few reasons. Given that I'm cranking out 6+ doubles daily that would get old routine-wise and I question the overall strength of the lever design holding up to grinding on the finer side. Yrs ago I had an Olympia Cremina which is the tank-like tried/true manual lever and my level of fine grinding would cause even the lever of that beast to flex a bit. These days I'm going near Turkish fine to really purposely overextract and would likely damage a Flair or Robot in the process. Having said that, it should work quite well for most enthusiasts. I personally would raise my expectations a bit as the mention of cafe quality espresso is a letdown as I've yet to find a single shop that was worth a repeat visit, which is why I roast/extract at home as nothing else has came close over the yrs.
Do you not have problems with excessive channeling with a grind that fine?
 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with having preferences or high standards.
If you really grind coffee to cement like fineness to the point where the lever handles, which have to be made with one eye on decorative attributes (delicacy for home use), bend, you've reached some kind of design limit.

There needs to be a super heavy duty metal levered version made....layered steel perhaps.

No criticism here. I'm all for anyone making coffee however they like it. I especially like the manual involvement.
You put the 'press' into espresso. Also, having to press your own could contribute to reducing compulsive consumption.

Q: Is the 3-6-9-STOP scale on that gauge in pics 1 + 4 just a vague dial or is it calibrated to some unit?
 
Do you not have problems with excessive channeling with a grind that fine?
Rarely... with a quality grind, good distribution in the basket, etc. I get very nice saturation the majority of time. I shoot for not seeing the first drop until as much as 30 seconds and then it's a very intense gloopy drip for another 30-40 seconds. Yield is almost always less than 1 oz. Granted it's an acquired taste and I've been at this awhile to know exactly what I want and how to reach it. Also will mention that not all coffees/roast levels are really suitable for it, but I still push boundaries to really crank out the maximum any coffee can produce.
 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with having preferences or high standards.
If you really grind coffee to cement like fineness to the point where the lever handles, which have to be made with one eye on decorative attributes (delicacy for home use), bend, you've reached some kind of design limit.

There needs to be a super heavy duty metal levered version made....layered steel perhaps.

No criticism here. I'm all for anyone making coffee however they like it. I especially like the manual involvement.
You put the 'press' into espresso. Also, having to press your own could contribute to reducing compulsive consumption.

Q: Is the 3-6-9-STOP scale on that gauge in pics 1 + 4 just a vague dial or is it calibrated to some unit?
There are heavy duty commercial lever machines, but even at that point you can reach the maximum limit of strain on shoulder/wrist, etc. Wouldn't bother with a spring lever either as I seriously doubt any can produce more pressure than I can manually regardless of what numerical value some wanna put on the biomechanical side of things.
 
Rarely... with a quality grind, good distribution in the basket, etc. I get very nice saturation the majority of time. I shoot for not seeing the first drop until as much as 30 seconds and then it's a very intense gloopy drip for another 30-40 seconds. Yield is almost always less than 1 oz. Granted it's an acquired taste and I've been at this awhile to know exactly what I want and how to reach it. Also will mention that not all coffees/roast levels are really suitable for it, but I still push boundaries to really crank out the maximum any coffee can produce.
Very interesting.

Im still a beginner, and just trying to learn.

I do know that the taste in the cup is the most important measure of a successful pull.

Im still learning what ratio and elapsed time make espresso I like. And, of course, that usually changes with different beans and roast levels.

I imagine it’ll get more intuitive the more I do it.

But what makes this hobby interesting, to me, is all the variables and experimentation. Figuring out what you like, and what parameters are needed to produce that result.
 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with having preferences or high standards.
If you really grind coffee to cement like fineness to the point where the lever handles, which have to be made with one eye on decorative attributes (delicacy for home use), bend, you've reached some kind of design limit.

There needs to be a super heavy duty metal levered version made....layered steel perhaps.

No criticism here. I'm all for anyone making coffee however they like it. I especially like the manual involvement.
You put the 'press' into espresso. Also, having to press your own could contribute to reducing compulsive consumption.

Q: Is the 3-6-9-STOP scale on that gauge in pics 1 + 4 just a vague dial or is it calibrated to some unit?
The problem is not, the inability to apply more force…and, in turn, pressure.

It’s pretty well-established thinking in the espresso world today that 6-9 BAR makes good espresso. In fact, many people enjoy the espresso produced by declining pressure profile (say, starting off with 9 bar after pre-infusion, then tapering off to around 6 bar). Historically, lever espresso machines naturally did this.

Its my understanding that, more than around 10 BAR doesnt usually produce good results. (Usually.)

However, there are many variables. The beans. The roast level. What grinder you’re using. Your puck prep.

Very high-end grinders will enable higher extraction by allowing the user to push the grind finer, and, in turn, pull higher pressures, without channeling, because the distribution of the grind they produce is extremely uniform (“unimodal”, in espresso-speak).

And, on top of that, different people have different tastes, so you can’t just rule out certain methods and say they’re not good.

The most important thing is that you like the espresso in the cup.

But, anyway, the Flair 58 is built plenty stout. I could be wrong, but I don’t think long-term durability is going to be a problem.
 
What machine are you using?

Sorry, can’t remember if you’ve answered that before.
A Rancilio Silvia Pro... prefer it for the rock solid build quality/simplicity of design and parts layout/longevity.

No doubt lots of variables with espresso, which is why it's the only method of coffee prep I will bother with. The end result is never the exact same, never gets boring and always presents a challenge of some sort along the way.

Regarding grinders, I prefer bimodal type burrs as the fines that go with that are what tend to give incredible texture as that is somewhat missing with unimodal. Again, no right or wrong, just finding what you like and maximize that in varying ways.

No doubt the Flair 58 should do well indefinitely and hold up for typical use. I will say it's awesome that so much capable/quality equipment is available these days affordably compared to 10+ yrs ago. Keep us posted on how it goes for you.. variations you try with pressure, that sort of thing.
 
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This is the easiest espresso maker to maintain. No descaling, backflushing, or anything like that.

All it needs is a wipe down of the stem and brew cylinder o-rings and a very light coating of food-safe silicone (Flair recommends Dow-Corning 111 silicone compound grease) to reduce friction, improve sealing, and keep the rubber supple.

1. Remove the gauge/plunger stem (with this latest version of the 58, it’s just held in by the small pin with o-ring).
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2. Loosen set screw that secures the brew head into the frame, then rotate quarter turn and lift brew head out of frame.
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Flair 58 frame with brew head removed:
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3. Pop brew piston out of the brew head cylinder bore, remove o-rings, wipe any residue from brew head cylinder bore and piston, apply light coat of 111 to o-rings, and re-install O-rings.
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4. Pop piston back into bore, re-install brew head into frame, snug up the set screw, put stem/gauge assy back in, and you’re done!

Takes maybe 15 minutes, and that’s if you take your time doing it!
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This is the easiest espresso maker to maintain. No descaling, backflushing, or anything like that.

All it needs is a wipe down of the stem and brew cylinder o-rings and a very light coating of food-safe silicone (Flair recommends Dow-Corning 111 silicone compound grease) to reduce friction, improve sealing, and keep the rubber supple.

1. Remove the gauge/plunger stem (with this latest version of the 58, it’s just held in by the small pin with o-ring). 2. Loosen set screw that secures the brew head into the frame, then rotate quarter turn and lift brew head out of frame.
Flair 58 frame with brew head removed:
3. Pop brew piston out of the brew head cylinder bore, remove o-rings, wipe any residue from brew head cylinder bore and piston, apply light coat of 111 to o-rings, and re-install O-rings.
4. Pop piston back into bore, re-install brew head into frame, snug up the set screw, put stem/gauge assy back in, and you’re done!

Takes maybe 15 minutes, and that’s if you take your time doing it!
Probably I missed it - what water do you use?
 
Probably I missed it - what water do you use?
i have the Zero Water 30-cup dispenser, which removes all dissolved solids (TDS measuring 0).

Then I remineralize with Third Wave Water.

I just buy the Third Wave Water packets from Amazon.

Its simple - you just mix 1 packet into 1 gallon of water.

However, that gives a TDS of around 120-140 ppm.

Many coffee experts recommend around 40-60 ppm for coffee brewing, plus, it helps with preventing scale buildup in my autodrip machines and kettle. And it tastes good.

So I just mix the packet into a gallon jug, then, I pour about 700ml into a smaller jug (I use old half gallon juice jugs) and fill the rest with demineralized, and that gives me a water with around 50-60 ppm, which is ideal.

Couple of gallons of coffee water in fridge. That’ll last a few days before I have to re-add.
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i have the Zero Water 30-cup dispenser, which removes all dissolved solids (TDS measuring 0).

Then I remineralize with Third Wave Water.

I just buy the Third Wave Water packets from Amazon.

Its simple - you just mix 1 packet into 1 gallon of water.

However, that gives a TDS of around 120-140 ppm.

Many coffee experts recommend around 40-60 ppm for coffee brewing, plus, it helps with preventing scale buildup in my autodrip machines and kettle. And it tastes good.

So I just mix the packet into a gallon jug, then, I pour about 700ml into a smaller jug (I use old half gallon juice jugs) and fill the rest with demineralized, and that gives me a water with around 50-60 ppm, which is ideal.

Couple of gallons of coffee water in fridge. That’ll last a few days before I have to re-add.
Wow...............so I use RO water which has just a little tiny (not sure how much) Ca/Mg/K hardness. Is RO water not good for coffee?

Should I start a coffee water thread and not hijack this one?
 
Wow...............so I use RO water which has just a little tiny (not sure how much) Ca/Mg/K hardness. Is RO water not good for coffee?

Should I start a coffee water thread and not hijack this one?
I’m certainly no water expert - I just know that our tap water is around 120-140 ppm TDS, and doesn’t taste great, with some chlorine.

I’ve heard it’s not good to use 0 ppm water straight out of the Zero Water filter, and water with a bit of minerals added back in makes the water taste better.

And if the water tastes good to drink, it’s very likely to make good coffee.

So if the water you’re using tastes good to drink, and you like how your coffee tastes, I’d say keep doing what you’re doing!

@JonnyRingvald might have some comments on it.
 
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