The easiest oil change I’ve ever done.
- Thread starter PimTac
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Originally Posted By: PimTac
It uses a spin on oil filter and a small one at that. I’ll bet it held not much more than a half cup of oil just by looking at it.
The XG6607?
yes, they are little
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3689755/Fram_Ultra_Synthetic_XG6607_
It uses a spin on oil filter and a small one at that. I’ll bet it held not much more than a half cup of oil just by looking at it.
The XG6607?
yes, they are little
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3689755/Fram_Ultra_Synthetic_XG6607_
Originally Posted By: Linctex
yes, they are little
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3689755/Fram_Ultra_Synthetic_XG6607_
According to that thread ^^^
"The 7317 is almost always a perfect replacement"
yes, they are little
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3689755/Fram_Ultra_Synthetic_XG6607_
According to that thread ^^^
"The 7317 is almost always a perfect replacement"
You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?
(EDIT - misread it. ONE special tool. An 8mm hex drive isn't really a special tool, though I wouldn't start it with a ratchet in this application.)
Heres another one. First change on Lada Mk1 1200 saloon, new-to-me but abused by ignoramii, like most Lada Mk1 1200 saloons in the UK.
Drain plug (recessed bolt requiring a big allen key thing) chewed-up and immobile. Remove longitudanal cross member and LHS engine mount. Jack up engine with bottle jack under gearbox. Still not enough clearance.
Fiddle around with timber, rope and a scissor jack wedged between engine and LHS inner wing to squeeze the engine a bit sideways. Remove many many sump bolts, supporting sump with a third jack.
Carefully lower and remove oil filled sump without spilling a drop (Yeh, I know, Only In The Movies). Sump bottom was rather disappointingly clean. Empty and clean it anyway with kerosene and rags.
Should have just put it back on again but...but...run around Lada dealers looking for a replacement sump plug and toolshops looking for a set of fluted bolt extractors. Managed to get a conventional bolt (original an un-characteristically stupid design for a Soviet car, maybe it came off a Citroen) a good quality Sykes-Pickavant extractor set, and, to be safe, a set of Dormer HSS drill bits. Pricey though.
Drill out sump plug, whack extractor in, turn it (with a socket, should have used a tap but didn't have one) and it CAME OUT AND NOTHING BROKE (Told you it was an easy oil change).
Carefully clean all traces of metal swarf from inside the sump. Replace it. Re-instate the engine mountings
Add oil.
Did I just forget to mention putting my new drain plug in the sump, or did I actually forget to do it?
So long ago...
(EDIT - misread it. ONE special tool. An 8mm hex drive isn't really a special tool, though I wouldn't start it with a ratchet in this application.)
Heres another one. First change on Lada Mk1 1200 saloon, new-to-me but abused by ignoramii, like most Lada Mk1 1200 saloons in the UK.
Drain plug (recessed bolt requiring a big allen key thing) chewed-up and immobile. Remove longitudanal cross member and LHS engine mount. Jack up engine with bottle jack under gearbox. Still not enough clearance.
Fiddle around with timber, rope and a scissor jack wedged between engine and LHS inner wing to squeeze the engine a bit sideways. Remove many many sump bolts, supporting sump with a third jack.
Carefully lower and remove oil filled sump without spilling a drop (Yeh, I know, Only In The Movies). Sump bottom was rather disappointingly clean. Empty and clean it anyway with kerosene and rags.
Should have just put it back on again but...but...run around Lada dealers looking for a replacement sump plug and toolshops looking for a set of fluted bolt extractors. Managed to get a conventional bolt (original an un-characteristically stupid design for a Soviet car, maybe it came off a Citroen) a good quality Sykes-Pickavant extractor set, and, to be safe, a set of Dormer HSS drill bits. Pricey though.
Drill out sump plug, whack extractor in, turn it (with a socket, should have used a tap but didn't have one) and it CAME OUT AND NOTHING BROKE (Told you it was an easy oil change).
Carefully clean all traces of metal swarf from inside the sump. Replace it. Re-instate the engine mountings
Add oil.
Did I just forget to mention putting my new drain plug in the sump, or did I actually forget to do it?
So long ago...
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: PimTac
It uses a spin on oil filter and a small one at that. I’ll bet it held not much more than a half cup of oil just by looking at it.
The XG6607?
yes, they are little
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3689755/Fram_Ultra_Synthetic_XG6607_
I used the Mobil 1 M108A EP filter. Compared it to the Roki that came off, virtually the same.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
It uses a spin on oil filter and a small one at that. I’ll bet it held not much more than a half cup of oil just by looking at it.
The XG6607?
yes, they are little
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3689755/Fram_Ultra_Synthetic_XG6607_
I used the Mobil 1 M108A EP filter. Compared it to the Roki that came off, virtually the same.
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
You should change the oil on my Rav4. Way easier than what you described. No ramps, no jack stands, no panels to remove. The oil filter is under the engine but easy to get to. The drain bolt is very easy to access. 14mm on the bolt and a cap wrench on the filter because I put them on tight. The hardest part is pouring the used oil into the container to take to recycling.
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
You should change the oil on my Rav4. Way easier than what you described. No ramps, no jack stands, no panels to remove. The oil filter is under the engine but easy to get to. The drain bolt is very easy to access. 14mm on the bolt and a cap wrench on the filter because I put them on tight. The hardest part is pouring the used oil into the container to take to recycling.
An easy oil change is great! But I like to take my time and let the oil pan drip out real good!
New oil stays cleaner if the dirty oil is all but gone!
New oil stays cleaner if the dirty oil is all but gone!
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
An easy oil change is great! But I like to take my time and let the oil pan drip out real good!
New oil stays cleaner if the dirty oil is all but gone!
I had no problem there as my car was at an angle with the front wheels up on 2x10’s and the drain plug faces to the rear.
An easy oil change is great! But I like to take my time and let the oil pan drip out real good!
New oil stays cleaner if the dirty oil is all but gone!
I had no problem there as my car was at an angle with the front wheels up on 2x10’s and the drain plug faces to the rear.
Originally Posted By: Leo99
...
You should change the oil on my Rav4. Way easier than what you described. No ramps, no jack stands, no panels to remove. ...
True of every car I ever had, or my parents had when I changed their oil. In the case of the Mazda, no need to get down on the ground at all, either.
...
You should change the oil on my Rav4. Way easier than what you described. No ramps, no jack stands, no panels to remove. ...
True of every car I ever had, or my parents had when I changed their oil. In the case of the Mazda, no need to get down on the ground at all, either.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
Think I've used a strap wrench once or twice and I've banged a ascrewdriver through a filter to use as a lever at least once, but usually they just come off. I think the Lada is the only drain plug I've had to drill out, but one or two have been chewed up enough to warrant replacement.
Of course I've never done a first change from the factory, but I suppose I assumed they'd tend to be both easier, and done under warranty by pros, (who would naturally tend to make the later ones harder.)
Isn't that why people buy new cars?
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
Think I've used a strap wrench once or twice and I've banged a ascrewdriver through a filter to use as a lever at least once, but usually they just come off. I think the Lada is the only drain plug I've had to drill out, but one or two have been chewed up enough to warrant replacement.
Of course I've never done a first change from the factory, but I suppose I assumed they'd tend to be both easier, and done under warranty by pros, (who would naturally tend to make the later ones harder.)
Isn't that why people buy new cars?
Easiest was my wife's E83 X3. Top mounted cartridge filter and enough ground clearance I didn't need to use ramps. Runner-up is the Club Sport, which also has a top mounted cartridge and only needs to be raised @6" on the right side to access the drain plug.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: PimTac
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
Think I've used a strap wrench once or twice and I've banged a ascrewdriver through a filter to use as a lever at least once, but usually they just come off. I think the Lada is the only drain plug I've had to drill out, but one or two have been chewed up enough to warrant replacement.
Of course I've never done a first change from the factory, but I suppose I assumed they'd tend to be both easier, and done under warranty by pros, (who would naturally tend to make the later ones harder.)
Isn't that why people buy new cars?
This is Bitog where having someone else change your oil is a sacrilege. Generally speaking, I change my own oil and the fluids on top. Once a year I pay a visit to the dealer for preventative maintenance and that is that unless something comes up. Since I got rid of my Ford decades ago, the dealer visits are pretty sparse.
While the oil is draining you can look things over, check the tires and washer fluid, and look for anything out of the ordinary. This routine has no doubt saved me money over the long haul.
Right now Mazda wants $80 to do the oil change. I did it for roughly $30. To clarify, no service freebies when I bought the car but even if they were there I would still change my own oil.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
“You used two special tools and you call it an easy oil change?”
I’m curious what you use on a factory filter. For tough cases I had a nice pair of Channelocks but they are not with me. The first change from the factory is usually a bear in my experience. This was easy. The filter was tightened by hand as should be so it will come off by hand next time.
Drain plugs require a wrench of some sort. Mazda is the first I’ve seen with the hex head plug but it works.
Think I've used a strap wrench once or twice and I've banged a ascrewdriver through a filter to use as a lever at least once, but usually they just come off. I think the Lada is the only drain plug I've had to drill out, but one or two have been chewed up enough to warrant replacement.
Of course I've never done a first change from the factory, but I suppose I assumed they'd tend to be both easier, and done under warranty by pros, (who would naturally tend to make the later ones harder.)
Isn't that why people buy new cars?
This is Bitog where having someone else change your oil is a sacrilege. Generally speaking, I change my own oil and the fluids on top. Once a year I pay a visit to the dealer for preventative maintenance and that is that unless something comes up. Since I got rid of my Ford decades ago, the dealer visits are pretty sparse.
While the oil is draining you can look things over, check the tires and washer fluid, and look for anything out of the ordinary. This routine has no doubt saved me money over the long haul.
Right now Mazda wants $80 to do the oil change. I did it for roughly $30. To clarify, no service freebies when I bought the car but even if they were there I would still change my own oil.
Easiest was a W126 chassis Mercedes 420SEL, most of the Toyotas my parents owned, a Nissan Quest and the Subarus 3 friends own. Hardest was a VW Jetta MkIV, not the fancy 1.8T or VR6, but the lowly 2.slow. That makes a Lexus look like child's play.
Think mine was an old Nissan with the small filter on the back of the block.
Pull it in.
Check oil level.
Loosen filter.
Once filter drains remove drain plug.
Remove filter as oil drains.
Replace filter and drain plug.
Fill.
Working at Wally World had most cars down to 15-20 on my own including vacuuming, filling fluids etc. If it weren’t for paperwork and looking for issues to upsell most places could restrict oil changes to one or two bays.
Pull it in.
Check oil level.
Loosen filter.
Once filter drains remove drain plug.
Remove filter as oil drains.
Replace filter and drain plug.
Fill.
Working at Wally World had most cars down to 15-20 on my own including vacuuming, filling fluids etc. If it weren’t for paperwork and looking for issues to upsell most places could restrict oil changes to one or two bays.
Easiest is my 2009 Sonata. No jack required. The filter is on top of the engine. The actual time of labor required is less than 10 minutes, but I like to let the oil drain out for a few minutes, so I do a quick detail while I'm waiting.
Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: Leo99
...
You should change the oil on my Rav4. Way easier than what you described. No ramps, no jack stands, no panels to remove. ...
True of every car I ever had, or my parents had when I changed their oil. In the case of the Mazda, no need to get down on the ground at all, either.
Me, too. I can change my Camry without ramps or anything but it does require me to position my body just right to be able to reach the drain plug. Not sure why there are so many threads on here asking about ramps for oil changes.
Originally Posted By: Leo99
...
You should change the oil on my Rav4. Way easier than what you described. No ramps, no jack stands, no panels to remove. ...
True of every car I ever had, or my parents had when I changed their oil. In the case of the Mazda, no need to get down on the ground at all, either.
Me, too. I can change my Camry without ramps or anything but it does require me to position my body just right to be able to reach the drain plug. Not sure why there are so many threads on here asking about ramps for oil changes.
Changing the oil on my Tacoma is almost a pleasure. With the Fumoto valve and the filter on the top, the hardest part is pouring the used oil in a container to take to recycling. Now replacing the oil filter on the Rogue is a whole different experience.
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