The BEST $500 car in history!!!
- Thread starter Graham Piccinini
- Start date
Hello again fellow Bitogers. As promised - I will post pictures and updates of the progress on this vehicle. Was unable to get working on it since I got it. Finally now got a chance to give it some TLC. Mostly I will be doing these thread updates for myself, just to see the progress.
GOOD NEWS: As you can see from the pictures below - it has a lot of "sweating" going on from and around valve cover and around the power steering lines. BUT it was sitting in the same spot for over a week and not a single drop of any fluids in the driveway. Pretty happy about that considering the mileage. I will change the seals and gaskets later on either way, but was happy to see that it is not leaking, but just "sweating" onto the block.
Also some of you may cringe right now from the OCOD on the block... Obviously it is from previous owner, and I personally believe it is a stout oil filter for up to 5k OCI, so I see no problems with it.
In the pictures you can still see a couple dead spiders and a few spider webs, and that is about 20% of the spider web that was in the engine bay initially. Happy to say that none of the wiring has seen mouse or rat teeth, considering how long it sat it is quite impressive. Today I will do just basic maintenance and maaaaybe a quick&effective engine bay wash.
P.S. The plastic engine cover is missing from the pics, but it is in the car. I took it off to check on the leaks.
GOOD NEWS: As you can see from the pictures below - it has a lot of "sweating" going on from and around valve cover and around the power steering lines. BUT it was sitting in the same spot for over a week and not a single drop of any fluids in the driveway. Pretty happy about that considering the mileage. I will change the seals and gaskets later on either way, but was happy to see that it is not leaking, but just "sweating" onto the block.
Also some of you may cringe right now from the OCOD on the block... Obviously it is from previous owner, and I personally believe it is a stout oil filter for up to 5k OCI, so I see no problems with it.
In the pictures you can still see a couple dead spiders and a few spider webs, and that is about 20% of the spider web that was in the engine bay initially. Happy to say that none of the wiring has seen mouse or rat teeth, considering how long it sat it is quite impressive. Today I will do just basic maintenance and maaaaybe a quick&effective engine bay wash.
P.S. The plastic engine cover is missing from the pics, but it is in the car. I took it off to check on the leaks.
First work done. Spent a couple hours on the Lexus and VW Tiguan. Took the intake and throttle unit off. Throttle body was really really filthy with oily deposits. Cleaned that off. Reason why I took it off in the first place is that the throttle position sensor is acting up.
Found out why. This throttle body unit has coolant running through it. One of the fittings was clogged up with something gooey. That fitting is like a PCV valve, coolant goes in the TBU, and can't come out through that valve, so that it flows through the other opening on the TBU that is connected to the back of the engine. I tried to clean the coolant valve, but it seems to be clogged beyond repair. So will be looking for a new one.
Also hood support struts are dead, so had to use the trusty pocket clamp wrench. Luckily new struts are $15 for both from rockauto.
Checked the timing belt. It has cracks in it, so it's at least 150k miles old... Will be replacing that as well. I was lucky that it didn't break on my 2 hour drive home right after purchase.
Found out why. This throttle body unit has coolant running through it. One of the fittings was clogged up with something gooey. That fitting is like a PCV valve, coolant goes in the TBU, and can't come out through that valve, so that it flows through the other opening on the TBU that is connected to the back of the engine. I tried to clean the coolant valve, but it seems to be clogged beyond repair. So will be looking for a new one.
Also hood support struts are dead, so had to use the trusty pocket clamp wrench. Luckily new struts are $15 for both from rockauto.
Checked the timing belt. It has cracks in it, so it's at least 150k miles old... Will be replacing that as well. I was lucky that it didn't break on my 2 hour drive home right after purchase.
Also while I was outside and sweaty already (thank you NC humidity) I decided to change the oil in 2013 VW Tiguan. My sister's ride. She loves it. Loves it so much that she has absolutely no problem saving up for a new turbo. This turbo works perfectly, but has low boost code. Obvious offender would be the diverter valve (aka blow off valve) but after replacing it code still came back. My guess is loose wastegate spring inside the turbo, but it's easier to just change the turbo. And yes, that is a Fram OCOD on the Tiguan... Not a whole lot of options on oil filters, considering the style of the filter on this little turbo engine.
Here is that TBU coolant valve from Lexus GS300 that I mentioned earlier. Works exactly like a PCV valve, except it needs pressure from water pump to be opened up, and then it closes and does not let coolant go back through it.
Since it was clogged and didn't let the coolant through - the TBU got warm enough to kill the throttle position sensor, since the TBU wasnt being cooled off...
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted by addyguy
What an impressive find! Loving this thread!
That Fram filter on the Lexus has to be REALLY old - it has no black grip stuff on it!
Wouldn't that make it like 15+ years old?? Yikes!
Nah, quick lube places use those still. It's the same as an Extra Guard Fram inside but there's no rubber grip, as it's mass produced. My dad had his oil changed at Walmart last year and they used one.
What an impressive find! Loving this thread!
That Fram filter on the Lexus has to be REALLY old - it has no black grip stuff on it!
Wouldn't that make it like 15+ years old?? Yikes!
Nah, quick lube places use those still. It's the same as an Extra Guard Fram inside but there's no rubber grip, as it's mass produced. My dad had his oil changed at Walmart last year and they used one.
Good find!
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
So clean. Any updates? How is it treating you?
That design is my favorite iteration of the GS. It has aged gracefully.
Dude not bad for $500 - that clogged coolant passage in the throttle body was probably caused by neglect and someone adding Dex-Cool/Clone or silicated coolant to the factory fill. Toyota Red LLC is probably the best coolant on the market if serviced at regular intervals. Be careful with the brake system - P12xx codes are common if the pump or accumlator are going out. Aisin used that base design for the 4Runner/LX/GX and Prius.
UPDATE TIME:
Never ever underestimate how tough the crankshaft bolt is... It took 500lbs worth of males, 7ft breaker bar, chain wrench, and a hammer to get that thing loose... But as soon as we heard a "crack" - I was able to loosen it the rest of the way by hand.
Engine itself is covered in dirt due to leaks. Thankfully I found the source of the leaks... Valve cover bolts were hand-tight. All of them, on both valve covers... I cleaned the engine with "soapy
wooder" (thanks ChrisFix) and a painting brush. Rest of the engine bay will be cleaned later. Last two pictures are before & after "soapy wooder"
So plan is to change the valve cover gaskets, camshaft and crankshaft seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, alternator.
Never ever underestimate how tough the crankshaft bolt is... It took 500lbs worth of males, 7ft breaker bar, chain wrench, and a hammer to get that thing loose... But as soon as we heard a "crack" - I was able to loosen it the rest of the way by hand.
Engine itself is covered in dirt due to leaks. Thankfully I found the source of the leaks... Valve cover bolts were hand-tight. All of them, on both valve covers... I cleaned the engine with "soapy
wooder" (thanks ChrisFix) and a painting brush. Rest of the engine bay will be cleaned later. Last two pictures are before & after "soapy wooder"
So plan is to change the valve cover gaskets, camshaft and crankshaft seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, alternator.
Here is what you all really came here for...
I gotta say - I expected the valvetrain to look a lot worse after 360k miles. Pleasantly surprised. From this point going forward this engine will only see synthetic oils, with occasional synthetic blend (aren't all oils synthetic blends of some sort these days?..)
Exhaust cam side is darker, due to higher heat. Intake cam side is a bit cleaner. Same goes for valve covers. Will clean them up before re-installing. PCV valve was loosely hanging in there, only held by a hose connected to it. Timing belt was long due for a replacement, full of cracks.
I gotta say - I expected the valvetrain to look a lot worse after 360k miles. Pleasantly surprised. From this point going forward this engine will only see synthetic oils, with occasional synthetic blend (aren't all oils synthetic blends of some sort these days?..)
Exhaust cam side is darker, due to higher heat. Intake cam side is a bit cleaner. Same goes for valve covers. Will clean them up before re-installing. PCV valve was loosely hanging in there, only held by a hose connected to it. Timing belt was long due for a replacement, full of cracks.
This engine, along with red GS400, will both get an OCI of Valvoline Restore 10w30 at some point. 3 gallons will be enough for both vehicles for 1 OCI, as both take 6qts per OC.
Very good job and great pictures sir
Thank You and keep up the great work and progress
Thank You and keep up the great work and progress
Also, keep in mind on Toyota VVT-i engines, there's a different set of timing marks for t-belt replacement, but you knew that.
Also, you're brave for replacing the intake cam seal on a VVT-i JZ/UZ engine. Supposedly the entire cam needs to be pulled apart, and the VVT actuator needs to be pulled apart and put back together to access the seal.
Also, you're brave for replacing the intake cam seal on a VVT-i JZ/UZ engine. Supposedly the entire cam needs to be pulled apart, and the VVT actuator needs to be pulled apart and put back together to access the seal.
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I messed up the intake and exhaust cam explanation above... Intake side is darker, while exhaust side is cleaner... Under the valve cover that is.
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