TEST/ DEMO - the story on additives
- Thread starter BOBISTHEOILGUY
- Start date
- Status
What purpose would that serve?
Bob, Redline, I believe, is available from on-line speed shops like SUmmit Racing while Royal Purple is available from Jegs.
I think they're on competing racing teams or something... but my friend in Honolulu said they have royal Purple on shelves at speed shops. So I'm not sure how they distribute them. I'm sure its not like Amsoil where its mail order only though.
I think they're on competing racing teams or something... but my friend in Honolulu said they have royal Purple on shelves at speed shops. So I'm not sure how they distribute them. I'm sure its not like Amsoil where its mail order only though.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by mkosem:
why no lucas in the schaefers oils?
--Matt
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What purpose would that serve?
Ruin a good oil?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by mkosem:
why no lucas in the schaefers oils?
--Matt
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What purpose would that serve?
Ruin a good oil?
Can't argue with that logic I suppose!
The Delo oil held up very well during the run. Then when the additive was put in the oil we got the foaming. The point to me was that it would foam in any motor oil. Now put this additive in an engine that has pressures that go from 500-3600 psi in a secondary HP pump and you may have serious problems. Diesel oils contain anti-foam agents, then adding another product seems like it negates the anti-foam, and even allows more foam. Solution, buy a quality oil and leave it alone rather than spend $7 a bottle on an additive that is questionable to me.
I was taught way back when that (generally speaking) you pick your oil viscosity by the size of the bearing clearances...bigger clearances need thicker oil. This Lucas stuff is like what?...SAE 50 or 60? So maybe the stuff did work as a bandaid to help his warn out engine limp home.
Ken
Ken
The guy also said he tried straight STP oil treatment (which is similar to Lucas being thick and heavy) and didn't get very far at all with that. Seeing as though how bad the Lucas fared on Bob's timken bearing tests, I'm a bit suprised it protected the guy's chevy long enough for 200 or so highway miles where it'd get nice and hot. As far as Lucas being SAE 50 or 60 wt, I was thinking more like around 70. That stuff makes even Maxlife 20w50 seem like 5w30 by comparison.
Jason
Jason
Might be a stupid question, but does this mean that I should request a refund or return the Schaeffer's #132 E.P. that I bought that was going to go in a mix of about 6oz to a fill of 5 qts of M1 5w30 supersyn for my wife's van? Or is this just "certain" additives that apply. I believe that Bob and Terry have both recommended this product highly. Is there also a backout on lube control as well, as I was to be writing my check to send for this product tonight. Did I miss something here or is there a big about face on some additives that were supposed to be good (not that i have seen all to many "great"things about Lucas).
Lube control was tested for compatibility with known adds, petroleum oils, synthetic products, and specifically the oil you mention above. Read the test results here on bobs site and use as directed or as oil analysis dictates.
I know #132 is compatible but I haven't tested it except to see analysis results using it quite successfully. As Molekule mentioned the surfactant above by name, It is a key ingredient in the ability of the Schaeffers gear lube to show well in the gear drive test.
So I would recommend intelligent usage of both products with the oil you mentioned under the watchful eye of oil analysis testing.
I think Bob is making a point about throwing anything in a lube without having any background or knowlege of the add and its chemical reaction with the host lube.
Maybe I need to reiterate the fact that GENERALLY a fully formulated lubricant is safe and cost effective for the average consumer. Yes sometimes you can do better but not without professional assistance and having a technical source you can trust that is not marketing driven.
Reading this board carefully and considering the source over time is a good way to find some of those better suggestions and others to stay away from. Finally use analysis to "trust but verify".
[ January 20, 2003, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
I know #132 is compatible but I haven't tested it except to see analysis results using it quite successfully. As Molekule mentioned the surfactant above by name, It is a key ingredient in the ability of the Schaeffers gear lube to show well in the gear drive test.
So I would recommend intelligent usage of both products with the oil you mentioned under the watchful eye of oil analysis testing.
I think Bob is making a point about throwing anything in a lube without having any background or knowlege of the add and its chemical reaction with the host lube.
Maybe I need to reiterate the fact that GENERALLY a fully formulated lubricant is safe and cost effective for the average consumer. Yes sometimes you can do better but not without professional assistance and having a technical source you can trust that is not marketing driven.
Reading this board carefully and considering the source over time is a good way to find some of those better suggestions and others to stay away from. Finally use analysis to "trust but verify".
[ January 20, 2003, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
Just a question:
Is it possible to install a CLEAR differential cover on a car/truck, jack up the rear end (RWD) and run the car at a low speed to see the real world effects of using different oils on the gears?
A normal spur gear doesn't behave quite the same as a beveled, hypoid, or helical worm gear in terms of oil contact/adhesion (maybe it does behave the same, who knows). I.e. the ring gear on a Ford 8.8" might scoop up more of the oil during each revolution than a thin spur gear.
Is it possible to install a CLEAR differential cover on a car/truck, jack up the rear end (RWD) and run the car at a low speed to see the real world effects of using different oils on the gears?
A normal spur gear doesn't behave quite the same as a beveled, hypoid, or helical worm gear in terms of oil contact/adhesion (maybe it does behave the same, who knows). I.e. the ring gear on a Ford 8.8" might scoop up more of the oil during each revolution than a thin spur gear.
You bet.
Interesting, especially with a selectable locker. I've heard of people using neon inside, though I can't imagine that looks too great with gear oil slopping around.
Interesting, especially with a selectable locker. I've heard of people using neon inside, though I can't imagine that looks too great with gear oil slopping around.
Bob
Great demonstration.
It re-enforces my belief that if your current oil is not doing its job. Find a new oil not an additive to make the old oil better.
Great demonstration.
It re-enforces my belief that if your current oil is not doing its job. Find a new oil not an additive to make the old oil better.
Hmmm very interesting Is there any benefit to using Lucas in an engine aside from what the manufacture says? There was one testimonial on the Lucas site where a guy had an old Chevy truck that lost all oil pressure on a long trip from worn out bearings. The guy drained the oil out and put in 5 quarts of straight Lucas and drove 200 or so miles that way back home with no problems. He said with straight lucas oil pressure got up to around 30psi. I'm not trying to be argumentative in a bad way, I'm rather suprised he made it home like that with the Lucas. I guess with nothing else to mix with the Lucas might actually serve some benefit.
Jason
Jason
I totally agree with that Neil.
I got a hold of Mystic 80w90 gear oil and Redlines supershock 80w90 yesterday. The results were as follows.
The mystic did not climb the gears. As a gear oil, it appeared to have a good resistance to foaming unlike some of the conventional gear oils.
The redline heavy shock gear oil, Very interesting stuff. It started to climb over the first gear when started but quickly dropped. Reason I believe it did this was because of the thickness it has when cold. BUT... This stuff is like paint. When it touches a spot, it's there. It did not come off, it did not run, it stayed where it hit. To clean my machine so I could even get it out there, I had to flush it out 5 times!. I can see where this stuff would hold up quit well if this is any indication. It is somewhat like the Schaeffers gear oil as both leave residue on the gears and walls. Difference here is Schaeffers price is lower and will climb but isn't as pretty as that red stuff .
[ January 21, 2003, 06:42 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
Its generally the same price or not far off, depending on the retailer.
MolaKule
Staff member
OneQuartLow,
"Interesting, especially with a selectable locker. I've heard of people using neon inside, though I can't imagine that looks too great with gear oil slopping around."
Just what everyone needs, a Glowing Rear End!"
Seriously, though, how do they get power to the neon tube?
Or is it a special Lucite with blacklight glow?
[ January 21, 2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
"Interesting, especially with a selectable locker. I've heard of people using neon inside, though I can't imagine that looks too great with gear oil slopping around."
Just what everyone needs, a Glowing Rear End!"
Seriously, though, how do they get power to the neon tube?
Or is it a special Lucite with blacklight glow?
[ January 21, 2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Bob, I would've sent you my extra Redline Shockproof that I had (think about .5 qrt or so, don't know if thats enough). I guessed you were going to test the regular RL 75w90 (I've since switched to this).
Bob,
I think what happens when you thicken the oil this much - or use a 75w-140 to start with - is that you are getting cavitation in the gear tooth contact zone and this is entraining the air. I think you should use a 75w-90 or 80w-90 synthetic in order to make this a better comparison.
As for the merits of using a "tackified" gear lube in an enclosed diff - well I'll save that discussion for another time ....
Nice pics!
I think what happens when you thicken the oil this much - or use a 75w-140 to start with - is that you are getting cavitation in the gear tooth contact zone and this is entraining the air. I think you should use a 75w-90 or 80w-90 synthetic in order to make this a better comparison.
As for the merits of using a "tackified" gear lube in an enclosed diff - well I'll save that discussion for another time ....
Nice pics!
- Status
