tendancy for people to put thicker oil in old cars

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I have noticed that when people have old cars or trucks that burn oil they use a thicker oil. This would seem to increase wear at startup and negate any benefit for wear reduction. However the thicker oil may have a different additive or high pressure additive that that vehicle needs and could have better film strength for worn out bearings and stuff. I am just wondering if anybody has seen this trend and if anybody has info on damage or benefits of doing this. obviously engine designs differ greatly so some may be more tolerant to different oils.
 
The benefit would be reduced oil consumption. The disadvantage would be decreased fuel economy. Wear could go either way.

Somebody posted a Youtube video of some girl changing oil, and she recommended using a 40 wt for an older car. The backlash on here was horrible.
 
I used to think I needed thick oil in my '68 Buick Gran Sport. Ran 20W-50 for years...then went down to 15W-40 HDEO as I was told it would help clean it out. After joining BITOG in 2002, I put in what the owner's manual called for: 10W-30 and the hot oil pressure is almost the same, but the motor revs more freely. Doesn't use any more oil than with the thicker ones, either.

I wish I had found this place way sooner.
 
Depends on how worn your bearings are, if the factory viscosity can sustain enough hot oil pressure at idle in drive (auto transmission), or if there is a noise problem (MANY VCT equipped modular Ford V8s).
 
I was going the "thinner is better" route before I ever discovered bitog, and I was consistently rewarded with less oil consumption, less noise, the same oil pressure, and more mileage in all of my vehicles.

I'd wager that today's 5-20 oils have greater film strength than the 20-50 oils of old.
 
Good to know guys.
I am planning to go down to a 5w40.
Been using 15w50 oils, even a light 10w60 trial but that slugged up (castrol).

Recommended is 40-50wt but its 25 years old with wide clearances due to a flexible boxer block.
Hope I see good results
 
Ha ha guilty I just did it tonight. My son's new to us 2002 Ranger had gone 169k on 5w20, mostly Motorcraft. But we switched it to 5w30 Maxlife tonight.

At 169k I gotta think the old girl will appreciate it, tolerances can't be what they were when new.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Ha ha guilty I just did it tonight. My son's new to us 2002 Ranger had gone 169k on 5w20, mostly Motorcraft. But we switched it to 5w30 Maxlife tonight.

At 169k I gotta think the old girl will appreciate it, tolerances can't be what they were when new.

Up a grade and switched to high mileage? I would have just gone one of those two routes, not both.
 
The newest Maxlife is "resource conserving" and as such not any thicker than a typical 5w30 so not that big of jump really.

I'm a big fan of Maxlife we have my other son's 168k Chrysler on it also.
 
Originally Posted By: MinamiKotaro
I was going the "thinner is better" route before I ever discovered bitog, and I was consistently rewarded with less oil consumption, less noise, the same oil pressure, and more mileage in all of my vehicles.

I'd wager that today's 5-20 oils have greater film strength than the 20-50 oils of old.


With the exception of RL, I'll take that wager!
 
I never increase the weight of oil I use as an engine ages. I stick with the same grade until I retire or rebuild it. Going thicker can actually increase consumption since the aging oil scraper rings don't remove thicker as thoroughly.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Ha ha guilty I just did it tonight. My son's new to us 2002 Ranger had gone 169k on 5w20, mostly Motorcraft. But we switched it to 5w30 Maxlife tonight.

At 169k I gotta think the old girl will appreciate it, tolerances can't be what they were when new.

I bet it has a big ole OCOD on it too!
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Ha ha guilty I just did it tonight. My son's new to us 2002 Ranger had gone 169k on 5w20, mostly Motorcraft. But we switched it to 5w30 Maxlife tonight.

At 169k I gotta think the old girl will appreciate it, tolerances can't be what they were when new.

I bet it has a big ole OCOD on it too!
lol.gif



Ha ha you funny guy sorry to disappoint we used a Motorcraft FL-400s. Imagine that!
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Ha ha guilty I just did it tonight. My son's new to us 2002 Ranger had gone 169k on 5w20, mostly Motorcraft. But we switched it to 5w30 Maxlife tonight.

At 169k I gotta think the old girl will appreciate it, tolerances can't be what they were when new.

I bet it has a big ole OCOD on it too!
lol.gif



Ha ha you funny guy sorry to disappoint we used a Motorcraft FL-400s. Imagine that!
laugh.gif


I knew that. I just had to say it!
crackmeup2.gif
 
Quote:
This would seem to increase wear at startup and negate any benefit for wear reduction.


As opposed to what? Because a 0W40 would have better cold weather attributes than a 10W30. As we know, KV's vary by brand, but as a general statement, and going strictly by API numbers, the 0W40 should be better in cold starts.
 
And only be a factor on reall really cold starts where pressure takes 10s of seconds to get up...the wear that occurs AFTER a start is the period while the additives are starting to function, and the engine parts are all the wrong shape.
 
Originally Posted By: outdoorsman310
I have noticed that when people have old cars or trucks that burn oil they use a thicker oil.

My LS400 has more than 350k miles and it had Delo 14W40 one or two OCI's, mainly because I bought 4 gallons for less than $4-5 a gallon 7-8 years ago. Since then it almost always has 5W30 which is the recommended weight, sometimes it had 5W20.

It consumes about 1/2 quarts every 3-4k miles since new, it drinks a little more with 5W20.
 
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