Originally Posted by MrMoody
Don't rev it cold.
Thanks, I won't. Usually I remote start it for 10 mins, that gets the car to operating temperature.
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Concerning the CRC intake valve cleaner, depends upon exactly how you plan to apply it and how your vehicle is configured.
I tried to spray it in past the MAF sensor, but the configuration of my vehicle made the cleaner splash back on the sensor...there was a right angle turn in the air path and I guess hooking the spray tube through that didn't work. My car ran atrociously bad until I cleaned the MAF sensor, it was a PITA to get the sensor out due to it being crammed up against the left side of the engine compartment with the screws facing left...luckily I had some teeny screwdrivers.
I ended up buying a special tool from Subaru for introducing their intake valve cleaner and carbon remover through a vacuum tube, this works well but I'm not completely sure why there are two different products.
Trav is an experienced mechanic on this site and warned me about using such cleaners too much...I last ran one maybe 6 months ago and will probably wait at least another year before running another one.
I would also recommend using a dexos2, dexos1 Gen 2, and/or SN Plus oil. Some DIT engines have had trouble with LSPI and those oil standards were developed to help keep it from occurring...my car was actually recalled for LSPI a while ago and there were some vehicles involved that got new engines. I had already learned about LSPI and was running a M1 oil with a formulation that helped mitigate that problem before the new standards had gone "live".
Car makers have been tweaking the ECU programs to help limit LSPI, but I still feel a lot better running an oil that also quashes it.
Enjoy that Stinger...I'm sure it flies!
EDIT - I may have talked about LSPI and oil already in another thread you started, sorry for any repetition!
Thanks, I don't have another thread but I was posting in one related to Stinger. That's a lot of information, I will take some time and understand. I was planning to run Mobil1 EP or Pennzoil Ultra.
Originally Posted by wemay
Congrats! My vote is for a dexos1 Gen2 5W30. But you have many choices (i believe) in the manual. Any one of those should work nicely. 5w vs 10w isn't an issue in NY. They are both 30s at operating temps. The 3.3T is fairly new so i haven't read of any deposit issues. I had a catch can on a couple of my KIA/Hyundai but it collected very little so removed them. I run Top Tier 95% of the time and our 2.0T now has over 140k miles without issue. I'm sure your driving habits will keep deposits at bay. If tracking it, I'd move up to a w40 for any events.
Again, congrats and enjoy
Thanks, I do. I moved to NC. I am planning to run top tier too. Good miles on yours.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
1. I don't know, sorry, but the internet doesn't seem awash with horror stories.
2. Snake oil.
3. Viscosity won't matter much towards your specific concerns. I believe thicker is better to an extent, and would run an A3/B4 0W/5W-40
4. Snake oil. Snake can?
Thanks, I made an post about all viscosity I can use.
Originally Posted by Mainia
Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP is my vote. It is not rated as a LPSI oil but has 1,100 ppm calcium and single digit low sodium, so technically it is a LSPI oil. Its was the FF oil for the Corvette until the new 0w 40 oil becomes available it has a viscosity of 11.8 at 100C and 3.5 HTHS. So it gives you some buffer room for fuel dilution/viscosity were 5w-30 dexos 1 Gen 2 does not. Has a bunch of Certs, some being for diesels but they can't hurt ...Chev seems to love this oil for the Corvette.
Thanks, ESP was one of my top choices (other one being Penzzoil ultra).