Sump Pumps With Check Valve

[Warstud]

Last night I had to replace some PVC pipe on my Sump Pump . I installed a Check Valve since there wasn't one . And since a Check Valve holds water in the pipe above it , removing the pipe would result in water spilling all over the floor . Is there something you can install above the Check Valve to drain the pipe before removal ? Just thinking ahead here .

 

[ctechbob]

Tap in a T with a hose bibb poking off the side?

 

[jhellwig]

^^^^^

This

 

[Rand]

How often would you have to remove and drain it?

 

[SHOZ]

Drill a hole and use a pan head screw and oring to seal.

 

[andyd]

Plan on making a mess, It is why I keep a few old towels and rags in my utility dungeon. Isn't the water gonna end up in the sump, anyway?

 

[Warstud]

How often would you have to remove and drain it?

You have a good point . But I've had to replace 4 Sump Pumps since I lived here . The check valves need replacing every few years from what I read . And come summer I'd like to replace all the piping with PVC , right now it half PVC and Metal .

 

[Rand]

Can you activate the check valve with a piece of wood ? etc

if its a full sump.. are there uh "objects" in there or just water?

 

[CarLuver]

i would remove the bottom clamp remove pipe and stick a screwdriver up to open the valve.

 

[tmorris1]

I just remove it slowly and let the water run back into the sump pit.

 

[Warstud]

Can you activate the check valve with a piece of wood ? etc

if its a full sump.. are there uh "objects" in there or just water?

This is how the Check Valve Works .

And here is what's in the Sump Pit

 

[Rand]

This is how the Check Valve Works

let me rephrase that. Does your toilet water end up in there?
I am well aware of what a sump pit and check valve are but there are some differences in houses.
IE basement toilet etc.

I would use a piece of wood or old smaller plastic pipe to actuate the check valve.
if there was no chance of turds flying out.
once a year or less. I dont see any need to change anything..
maybe when you convert to all plastic you could always add a capped T but that would be almost more annoying than just poking the check valve and letting it drain into the sump.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

I've had the same concerns as Warstud.
What I did is-
1) mount the check valve as low as possible, this should get you below the basement floor.
2) just above the check-valve, drill a 1/2" hole thru discharge pipe (still below floor).
3) seal the hole using a worm screw clamp (stainless) and a piece of rubber
When the time comes to drain the line, slowly loosen the hose clamp and let any water drain into sump.

 

[Warstud]

Removing the bottom hose clamp and using a piece of wood or screwdriver to open the valve may work , we'll see . Thanks

 

[MasterSolenoid]

I had a noisy check valve and every time the sump-pump stopped pumping, I heard a loud noise from the check-valve.
I ordered one of these and it is extremely quiet.

Amazon.com

 

[jhellwig]

let me rephrase that. Does your toilet water end up in there?
I am well aware of what a sump pit and check valve are but there are some differences in houses.
IE basement toilet etc.

I would use a piece of wood or old smaller plastic pipe to actuate the check valve.
if there was no chance of turds flying out.
once a year or less. I dont see any need to change anything..
maybe when you convert to all plastic you could always add a capped T but that would be almost more annoying than just poking the check valve and letting it drain into the sump.

Not to be that guy but technically it would be an "effluent" pump if that was the case. It would also be a slightly different style of pump. A "turd" grinder pump to shred the waste and paper before it is pumped. Not fun to work on as it is always a crappy job to do.

 

[CDX825]

Ive always just disconnected them below the check valve and changed the pump. So long as the pipe is supported above just leave the water in it.

 

[RhondaHonda]

@Warstud -did you have any better results with a certain brand of pump? One of ours that gets more use is almost 10 years old. It only comes on after lots of rain though now that I’ve buried all my downspouts and they discharge further from the house.

 

[Warstud]

@Warstud -did you have any better results with a certain brand of pump?

Yes ..... I currently have a Barracuda from Menards that hasnt given me any problems yet . The first one was a Rigid and the Pressure Switch (like a float ) quit working .... wiring corroded . Rigid replaced that and a few months after ...... one of the bolts that held it together broke off from rust . I went thru a couple cheap Wayne Pumps that had plastic plates on the bottom that screwed into the base . The screws stripped out from the pressure and allowed water to get by and they wouldnt work right

 

[fantastic]

I just make the wet mess on the floor but next time I have it split apart I've got a manual lever valve I'm going to install further up so I won't have as much water coming out the next time. I have about 20 feet of 2" pipe full of water each time. I'd bet you don't have that much water to lose. I recently installed the Hydrocheck switch on the primary.

https://www.hydrocheckproducts.com/product-page/hc6000-hi-low-sump-controller-dual-float