I did the opposite. Switched the riding lawn mower from conventional straight 30W oil to synthetic 5W-30 to make it easier to start off season for my joy rides to exercise the mower when the lawn doesn't need to be cut.
Straight 30w in Hot Climates
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The only sane reason to do this is if you had a big stash. If I were that person, and was tight on funds, I'd do it. If I could afford it, I'd sub one quart of the 30 with 1 quart of 0W30 to help things out.
I would not do it because this one time at band camp... this guy ran it in his engine and it "didn't cause any problems"... that he noticed, in the time he ran it, before he sold it.
I would not do it because this one time at band camp... this guy ran it in his engine and it "didn't cause any problems"... that he noticed, in the time he ran it, before he sold it.
That really makes no sense if the oil meets the license or specification the engine requires and the climate is suitable for a straight-weight oil. After that it's a 30-grade just like your multigrade 0W-30 example. Anything above freezing and you'd not notice a difference nor would your engine.
Else what would make it insane per your statement?
I was never in band.
I'm not sure how adviseable it is to mix straight grade oil with multi-grade oil, it causes a non predictable visosity since you have no clue how the VII in the multigrade oil will interact with the heavy base oil in the monograde. Since modern SAE 30 is around 20W it's probably pretty similar to the base oil used in 20W50 without the VII, so if you blend a bunch of 0w30 with straight 30, you'll have the mixing of the thin base oil from the 0w30 with the SAE30 base oil but also there's VIIs in the mix who knows that mix could possibly result in 10w40 or 15w40.
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Don't assume anything concerning oil
Average viscosity of mixing oils is close enough and won't go ballistic. Not sure why that scare/fear comes up here all the time.
If you want HTHS, then pick an oil brand proud enough to list the HTHS and use the higher HTHS oil.
Don't assume that a 10w30 will have more HTHS than a 5w30, or a SAE 30 has more HTHS or viscosity than a 10w30 or 5w30
If you have a quality SAE30 oil that you want to use in your car, and you live in a warm/hot climate, do so.
Problem is finding a quality SAE30 oil these days and a blender/formulator that will give you any info on their oils.
www.royalpurple.com
https://vpracingfuels.com/product/4-cycle-sae-30-10w30-full-synthetic/?c=245 Shouldn't be double labelled.... bad oil company bad bad!
The local marina has the Sierra SAE30 synthetic.
Purposely leaving out race oils, and conventionals unless you have old iron in the driveway.
And, to track down a straight sae30 isn't cost effective when I can find rebated/clearance oils whenever needed, in full synthetic, at an economical price point.
Btw, if you or the neighbors car is down a pint, and the only thing on the shelf is a SAE30 or whatever, then use it to top it off. I wouldn't go out of my way to track one down, VOA/UOA the oil often, and to see if its ok for your engine, weather, and driving patterns.
Average viscosity of mixing oils is close enough and won't go ballistic. Not sure why that scare/fear comes up here all the time.
If you want HTHS, then pick an oil brand proud enough to list the HTHS and use the higher HTHS oil.
Don't assume that a 10w30 will have more HTHS than a 5w30, or a SAE 30 has more HTHS or viscosity than a 10w30 or 5w30
If you have a quality SAE30 oil that you want to use in your car, and you live in a warm/hot climate, do so.
Problem is finding a quality SAE30 oil these days and a blender/formulator that will give you any info on their oils.
API-LICENSED MOTOR OIL
Enhanced additive technology prevents metal-to-metal contact beyond both GM dexos1™* and ILSAC GF-5 specs
www.royalpurple.com
The local marina has the Sierra SAE30 synthetic.
Purposely leaving out race oils, and conventionals unless you have old iron in the driveway.
And, to track down a straight sae30 isn't cost effective when I can find rebated/clearance oils whenever needed, in full synthetic, at an economical price point.
Btw, if you or the neighbors car is down a pint, and the only thing on the shelf is a SAE30 or whatever, then use it to top it off. I wouldn't go out of my way to track one down, VOA/UOA the oil often, and to see if its ok for your engine, weather, and driving patterns.
PHX. Vegas. Los angela's etc
My old Case tractor runs well on sae 30. Likely what it was designed to run.
Yes, I was meaning the function of the VII. Now there are 2 choices, one a grp3 with VII like 5W40, and a group II with no VII, SAE 30. Is the grp II SAE 30 just as coking resistant ?. Is the VII the main culprit for turbo passage coking ?
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Folks love to get into “W” ratings etc … but SAE30 and HDEO 10W30 etc … are visibly thicker at moderate temps and take harder tugs to start OPE … I like 5w30 in my walk behind mower and thicker stuff in the 19HP rider
My pull start gens mostly have 5W40 because they run pretty hard/hot …
I would go with a 10/40 first choice more so for 6 months of the year. If not then 10/30 year round.
Nothing wrong but I wouldn't use it in your area, 5/30 doesnt make much sense to me that in your climate with the average high temperature above 100 degrees for months and months and that you use the same 30 weight oil as another part of the country with average temperatures of 80 degrees. Recommended oil weights are based on an average and you are way above that average, nothing wrong with a 40 in your area.
I dont like the straight 30 idea as much, rather have the 10/40 but then again, you had more time to think about it.
Arent 30 wt oils for ope non-detergent?. For that reason I don't think you'd want to use them in any vehicle nowadays.,,,
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I think PYB and GTX still has pcmo mono grades. RP used to as well. SAE30 and SAE40.
Nope.
I use 30 wt all the time in my VW Beetle. It fits the warm up curve for the air cooled perfectly. Parts of the motor expand at different rates and it keeps noise to a minimum when things are loose.
A 10w30 will be easier to find and probably cheaper than a 30w.
I don’t really care for “summer fill” type OCI strategies - it seems to never work out that way. Even in the hot hot San Joaquin valley we still see winter lows in the 20’s, and in the western US you can have 30-40 degree temp swings depending on your elevation.
I don’t really care for “summer fill” type OCI strategies - it seems to never work out that way. Even in the hot hot San Joaquin valley we still see winter lows in the 20’s, and in the western US you can have 30-40 degree temp swings depending on your elevation.
I did some looking around and what I've found is, 30 wt oil could be used in a car, but they are mostly non-detergent. Most articles start off saying 30 wt, but start talking about 5 or 10w30 wts. Which pretty much all are detergent oil. Here's an example.,, https://findanyanswer.com/can-i-use-sae-30-instead-of-5w30-in-my-car
Does your bug have an actual oil filter on it, or just a screen you have to clean at oil change time?. My '66 bug had the screen "filter".,,
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