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Straight 30w in Hot Climates
- Thread starter ad244
- Start date
I put Delo HD30WT in my 05 PowerStroke several months ago, nearing the end of a 5000 mile OCI and the truck has never run better. Granted I'm in Central Florida, so no real cold starts but we haul all the time with the truck, hay, horses, wood etc.
I have noticed that even near the end of the OCI the injectors aren't as noisy, it still has great oil pressure and oil temps do in fact stay several degrees cooler than usual with a 15W40 or 10W30 in the sump. With an HPOP injection system, my main reason was for shear stability. These HPOP's will shear a good oil down a grade or two real fast.
I have noticed that even near the end of the OCI the injectors aren't as noisy, it still has great oil pressure and oil temps do in fact stay several degrees cooler than usual with a 15W40 or 10W30 in the sump. With an HPOP injection system, my main reason was for shear stability. These HPOP's will shear a good oil down a grade or two real fast.
0W-30
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Well, something I did was read up on what GM has to say. Many, many things tie to the ECM … and it is basically using electronic control over hydraulics at start up or other times to make critical changes inside the engine and surveillance of same. They state on mine … all of this was engineered based on 0w20.
Arco mentions this often regarding non domestic engines as well.
I did not gang up on you … not my style. I posted a $3.12 SAE30 to show they are keeping with the times … In the 90's, most connected LSPI or knock to fuels back then, not PVL. Warren is buying base stock from the horse and tiger … I'd guess it's EHC, the new Dex 1.2 darling for less … and add packs from the main suppliers who all sit on API committees.
I suppose many engines could run fine on this oil in hot climates … but I'd encourage others to read up on the vintage they have - as these variable pumps, VVT, dual displacement, piston jets, cooling, distributed flow etc … are changing often.
Arco mentions this often regarding non domestic engines as well.
I did not gang up on you … not my style. I posted a $3.12 SAE30 to show they are keeping with the times … In the 90's, most connected LSPI or knock to fuels back then, not PVL. Warren is buying base stock from the horse and tiger … I'd guess it's EHC, the new Dex 1.2 darling for less … and add packs from the main suppliers who all sit on API committees.
I suppose many engines could run fine on this oil in hot climates … but I'd encourage others to read up on the vintage they have - as these variable pumps, VVT, dual displacement, piston jets, cooling, distributed flow etc … are changing often.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by ad244
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
What city are we discussing here? I want to move there immediately.
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
What city are we discussing here? I want to move there immediately.
Originally Posted by ChemLabNL
Nice.....
https://www.ruralking.com/oil-hk-sae-30-hd-5-quarts
Very nice
Harvest King HD Premium SAE 30 Motor Oil 5 Quarts, $9.49, API SN
Nice.....
https://www.ruralking.com/oil-hk-sae-30-hd-5-quarts
Very nice
Harvest King HD Premium SAE 30 Motor Oil 5 Quarts, $9.49, API SN
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by ad244
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
What city are we discussing here? I want to move there immediately.
Amen to that!
Originally Posted by ad244
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
What city are we discussing here? I want to move there immediately.
Amen to that!
Originally Posted by ad244
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
Don't most charts say straight 30 is good down to around 50*F? If so, I'd say you're fine to use just about whatever.
Do you have oil consumption?
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
Don't most charts say straight 30 is good down to around 50*F? If so, I'd say you're fine to use just about whatever.
Do you have oil consumption?
I certainly defied all this morning with a cold start in my 05 PSD running Straight HD Delo 30WT!! It was 27* here in north central Florida this morning and my truck started perfectly, not plugged it and only the brief warm up of the glow plugs to assist.
My PSD loves 30WT and I will continue to use it.
My PSD loves 30WT and I will continue to use it.
Originally Posted by ad244
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
So after nine pages of discussion what are you looking for?
The 10w30 you are running is plenty sufficient.
Im still on the fence about weither or not I want to try a monograde 30w in the sump of my 3.4L Tacoma vs the 10w-30 I typically run vs a 0w-40 which seems pretty pointless when we're not seeing days below 80 degrees for 3 months.
So after nine pages of discussion what are you looking for?
The 10w30 you are running is plenty sufficient.
How about 7ppm Fe after 9,500 miles in a 2011 deleted LML?
Duron SAE 40.
Duron SAE 40.
Is the modern SAE 30 ok to use with 80s turbo engines ?
I don't see why not, a modern SAE30 should be much better oil than what you'd have gotten 40 years ago should be made with group II base stock and even without a winter grade listed is probably close to 20W which makes it nicer to start on a cool day compared to some of that old solvent refined stuff that still had tons of wax in it, unless the engine in question has a flat tappet cam shaft and stiff springs then an HD oil with more ZDDP is probably better suited than modern PCMO SAE30.
Thanks, but I wasnt specific enough. Will it withstand the temps in the turbo journals and the supply pipes? Will it coke up compared to a grp 3 5w-40 ? That is my only concern.
It's thick enough, and the very low VII's should help, but I don't think that is a great choice for a turbo with so many other better choices readily available. Our family blew up an 80's Audi turbo on PYB 10w40 many years ago, sustained boost under highway travel with high winds it wasn't enough.
manicrodder
$50 site donor 2022
How long did his cars last?? This aside, that is what I used in Havasu and still would today for summers there.Grandpa always used straight 30 and he lived to be 95.
That's really not a function of the grade. You're focusing on the wrong thing if you're looking for oxidation and coking resistance.
A 5w flows better a startup for quicker lubrication in any abeient tempeture. I'd use a major brand 5w30 synthetic.
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