spark plugs.

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I run them until one of the Motorcraft coil packs dies.

If I have to take off the intake plenum? New plugs are going back in before I put the intake back on.

All 3 back coils have been replaced now. I'll probably go 50,000 unless the aftermarkets turn out to be as bad as the OE Motorcraft coils were.

I do the PT more frequently. I use copper plugs in it. Plus, since it's a turbo I don't have to remove the intake to change the plugs.
 
I just helped a friend replace the plugs on his Pilot at 140K, we couldn't tell the difference between 5 of the old plugs and the new plugs, visual inspection and road test. What we did notice was that on one of the plugs was very loose. He plans to check at the 60k mark and re-torque them and since we used OEM NGK plugs we didn't use any anti-seize on the threads per NGK's guidelines.
 
On most cars, changing platinum plugs before 100K seems a waste. Change before 100K miles if you are running into problems with them. Otherwise just leave them IMO.
 
The other "advantage" of changing plugs @ or near 100k and say 8 years is getting them out before they become a near-permanent part of the engine...freezing in their socket...changing 6 plugs @ $40-50/100k miles is a no brainer....that's about 1/10 the price of oil changes (@ $50/10k) over those miles...(less for those who eke out an few extra miles on their OCI, a lot less for DIYers)...
 
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Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
As your personal rule of thumb, how long do you let sparkplugs go ?

Regular plugs ?

Iridium plugs ?

I should add anyone can look this up in a book, im curious as to how long YOU let either of these two go and why.


As long as the vehicle is running ok( i.e. starts properly, smooth idle/acceleration, no drop in MPG, etc... )I will go by the owner's manual if it is a new vehicle under warranty. If no warranty involved I have a general rule of thumb I use( again it assumes vehicle is running ok )...

Copper( regular ) = 30K
Platinum = 75K
Iridium = 100K

My current vehicle runs NGK V-Power Copper plugs Factory( and as replacement ). V-Power plugs are great and generally can go 30K no problem. I only have 18K on the vehicle but the mfg calls for plug changes every 24 months or 30K. Like with OC's it is whichever comes 1st. August is the 2 year anniversary of purchase so I will be changing the plugs next month even though they will only have approx 19K max on them.
 
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Just check Maint. schedule on one (of 3) of the vehicles recently bought and it has a 105k recommendation for 1st iridium plug change. Then 120k for 1st coolant change.
Everything below the 105k service, its oil/oil filters, cabin filter, tire rotations, a few air filters and visual inspections.
The RAV I had, I had plug changes every 30k. Getting less services from what I'm used to.
 
Regular plugs, I guess they're not to common these days. I had an '83 Plymouth 2.2L that was sensitive to the plug condition. I could tell when it needed plugs, about every 15K miles, if I recall correctly.

Platinum plugs, they seem to run good forever. I replace them every 50K miles, mostly because of the horror stories about plugs becoming frozen in the head. Even though it's replacing them ahead of schedule, it seems like cheap and prudent insurance.

Iridium plugs, not sure, I don't use them.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kuato
I am looking forward to owning a vehicle that can run plugs a long time.

Both our '04 Jeeps recommend replacing plugs every 30k. When doing so, the 4.0 is noticeably smoother after replacement, and the 2.4 seems to have more power and smoother at idle with the AC on.


You don't have to wait - just use a platinum or iridium plug in place of the copper. I used Autolite single Platinums in a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with great results.
 
Some of the comments on here I find funny. Owners manuals aren't bibles to be followed by every letter. Maintenance schedules are designed to sell the cars, not to keep them on the road for 100k plus. Waiting until there's an issue to perform maintenance? Some folks on here go to such extremes to eek out a little mpg, or extend OCI to save a few bucks. A factory coil burnt out from excessive gap will eat up most of the savings from either of these. Not to mention the vehicle may be getting carbon build up and retarding timing if the ignition system isn't maintained causing both poor fuel economy and more junk in the oil.

I work in a shop and see the results of lack of maintenance and I love it. Vehicles nowadays can go on for ever but the human element keeps on bringing them in for large costly repairs from being abused LOL

I'd like to hear from folks changing the heat range and gap for performance or economy.
I run an MSD box with a hot coil so I plan on changing plugs frequently. Once I have the motor tuned I want to play with differant gaps and heat ranges, maybe step up to platinum plugs for longer life expectancy.
 
spark plugs aren't needed to be changed anywhere near the amount they used to be. old habits die hard. just follow the manual
 
I wouldn't wait til they became a problem unless they were hard to get to. They are cheap enough that even premium plugs should be replaced at 100k.
 
I change the platinum plugs in my subaru every 30k, just like the owners manual says to. Each plug currently costs $7.22 on amazon, I don't mind paying around $30 every 2 years or so.
 
My fox is a piece of cake to get at the plugs. So changing them slightly ahead of schedule doesn't bother me. The 2V and 4V plugs aren't that bad either so again I like to fiddle.
My hemi was an absolute nightmare. I originally called the dealer because I was just going to have them do it.
For low grade cheap copper plugs they told me over 600 including the parts(I forget the exact cost). I told them over my cold dead body will I pay that kind of money for a couple of hour job.
Well it took me 6 hours to change 16 plugs. The ones behind the brake reservoir were a total nightmare. There was no room to have my socket,extension,swivel and ratchet all assembled and slide in the hole. Nope. I had to assemble each piece,blind,so it was all by feel,and re-install was the same scenario.
There are 5 iirc that are a pain because of the brake booster so the ones closest to the firewall on the driver side,but only 2 on the passenger side were difficult.
When I was done I reflected on the effort,frustration and pain from getting poked everywhere because I had to lay on top of the engine and I re-considered the quoted price and felt it was worth every penny for me to not have to do it again,expense vs reward,and the expense was worth the reward of not having to do it.
I used platinum/iridium plugs so I could take advantage of the extra time in between plug changes.

I do like standard copper plugs in cars that are easy to change. Over time we don't notice the loss of instantaneous response,the speed of start up,ease of passing and those couple of mpg lost due to less than perfect plugs however once changed we all notice how much better the engine runs,so with cheap copper plugs I don't spend alot to maintain that level of responsiveness,and I really can't tell that they were changed.
I feel that I rather maintain top level of performance,rather then keep the platinums in or longer,and they gradually lose their performance,but because they do last longer I just accept the slug my motor becomes.
 
Originally Posted By: Seabass
I'd like to hear from folks changing the heat range and gap for performance or economy.
I run an MSD box with a hot coil so I plan on changing plugs frequently. Once I have the motor tuned I want to play with differant gaps and heat ranges, maybe step up to platinum plugs for longer life expectancy.



I don't know if my experience will help you or not, but once I had the ECU in my Audi tuned to increase boost pressure I switched to a plug one range colder and shortened up the gap from .032 to .028 per the tuner's recomendation. I also went from the OE double platinum to the standard NGK V-groove plug, as the tuner said they transfer heat out of the cylinder quicker. I did run the double plats for a few miles before changing to the V-grooves, and did not notice any real difference.
 
Wildly platform specific.

I have run OEM ACDelco iridiums to well past 200k miles without misfire or coil issues in service trucks. Just changed an 05 Silverado with 120k miles and the plugs looked like new, made you feel silly changing them! Took them out of my 6.1 twice to look at them, they look like new at 70k miles.

Modern vehicles generally set a misfire code at the slightest hint of irregular firing, so your check engine light will tell you when you NEED plugs. I don't own any fragile vehicles that burn coils at a whim.

I've had them out of my lil roller Chevy street car every weekend for tweaking and tuning, but once set up correctly they run great for a year or so of radical cammed usage. But those are plain tipped plugs.
 
I find that many 100,000 mile plugs are not actually going more than 60,000 miles. Also, early replacement is good because the wider the park gap gets, the more it stresses the ignition coils. So change plugs early, you will save money long term. I had a friend who had to replace an ignition coil in a Volkswagen VR6, and no matter where he looked, it was extremely expensive.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I find that many 100,000 mile plugs are not actually going more than 60,000 miles. Also, early replacement is good because the wider the park gap gets, the more it stresses the ignition coils. So change plugs early, you will save money long term. I had a friend who had to replace an ignition coil in a Volkswagen VR6, and no matter where he looked, it was extremely expensive.


Bingo!!! I'm planning plugs for both my Grand Marquis this fall at around 60K mi(each have 58K mi)...

What I did find a hoot is someone changing plus because they were two years old, time has zero to do with plug tip erosion... My '98 Grand Marquis has 15 years on the originals, runs fine but I will change at 60K mi...
 
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