Spark plugs removal: Air ratchet or by hand

[blupupher]

Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD

I saw more than a few guys on YT using an impact wrench on Ford Triton V8 engines to prevent the two piece sparkplugs from breaking off in the head. Worked infinitely better than a presoak.

Seen quite a few that have broken just as doing it by hand. It is a hit and miss with those 2 piece plugs in the 3v.

 

[bioburner]

Don't think you should have issue with a plug change at 25k. Most now recommend changes at 90-100k.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I think that's for fancy double plat or iridium plugs....this thing is old school and like copper lol.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: HoosierJeeper
I think that's for fancy double plat or iridium plugs....this thing is old school and like copper lol.

Where is the copper in a copper plug?

 

[AVB]

Inside, same as the resistor.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

I have soaked plugs with PB overnight before. Seemed to help a bit. Best thing is to break them loose and retorque every year or so. I use the aluminum anti seize

 

[9050lx]

2 piece plug designed by the same guy that put the water pumps behind the timing chain no doubt!
Originally Posted By: blupupher
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD

I saw more than a few guys on YT using an impact wrench on Ford Triton V8 engines to prevent the two piece sparkplugs from breaking off in the head. Worked infinitely better than a presoak.

Seen quite a few that have broken just as doing it by hand. It is a hit and miss with those 2 piece plugs in the 3v.

 

[i_hate_autofraud]

NEVER use a power tool to take out plugs! Why? If the plugs are OEM and this is the first
change, after several years, the threads will be dry in the head and can strip or gall!

On original OEM plugs removed for the first time, by hand, use a ratchet wrench, expect to
loosen and tighten to break free the threads, cycle several times.

On original OEM plugs removed for the first time, you can expect the threads to drag even
after you break free, so loosen 1/4 turn and tighten 1/8 turn to gently free up the threads
as you go, 'walking out' of the tight threads, if aluminum heads are involved, take your time!

 

[Johnny2Bad]

IF you use anti-seize on plugs, I prefer to use a copper-based type (temp rating to 1800F) and use sparingly. Since it's conductive, you maintain a good ground to the head as well.

Lycoming Aircraft Spark Plug installation guidelines:

" ... Use a copper-based anti-seize compound or engine oil on spark plug threads starting two full threads from the electrode, but DO NOT use a graphite-based compound. ..."