Solderstick

I have been using them on-and-off for the past few years, but sparingly until last summer. If you try heating the solder and heat-shrink tubing with a match, cigarette lighter, butane torch, soldering iron or conventional heat gun, your results will be inconsistent with mostly poor outcomes. The only way to get consistently satisfactory results is to purchase an inexpensive specialized mini-heat gun with high and low temperature settings. I am getting 100% good results since purchasing the following mini-heat gun last year from Amazon. The aluminum deflector shield also helps to focus the hot air around the back side of the connector.

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They work great. I use a focusing tip for my heat gun with a shield like the photo above.

Though I generally prefer environmental splices.
 
At this point I've been soldering for over 40 years. Everything from large gauge wire to SMD component replacement. All of these connectors that I have seen make a poorly flowed connection with low melt solder. I would never use them, especially in a vehicle that vibrates. They do a pretty good job of sealing the water out, though.
 
At this point I've been soldering for over 40 years. Everything from large gauge wire to SMD component replacement. All of these connectors that I have seen make a poorly flowed connection with low melt solder. I would never use them, especially in a vehicle that vibrates. They do a pretty good job of sealing the water out, though.
Plenty of Raychem Solder Sleeves on aircraft.
 
Plenty of Raychem Solder Sleeves on aircraft.
Yep. And they are manufactured to a very strict specification. One Solder Sleeve for 18 gauge wire is like 76 cents. The ones posted above are 40 cents each in a 100 quantity, and this kit is on the more expensive side of what is offered out there. Solder composition and flux type are not mentioned on most of these kits of dubious manufacture.

I know exactly what I get when I order Raychem.
https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...ng=English&DocFormat=pdf&PartCntxt=403289-000
 
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