Smooth move, or recipe for disaster?

[RGR]

Acquired Nissan Juke, 2015. Non-Nismo 1.6L DI turbo motivated, American spec. Previously owned a 2013, and posted here on several occasions that this little beastie sheared oil down in a heartbeat, to where Blackstone commented on every single UOA. MC7500, QSUD 5w-30, PU (old good stuff) 10w-30, in each case Blackstone commented "are you SURE you put in 5/10w-XX?".

Going through manual, Juke now has a 0w-20 recommendation, 5K OCI. 5w-30 is listed as acceptable to maintain warranty (similar recommendation as 2015 Altima).

The rub lies here: I was about ready to try out a GC 0w-30, Ultra 5w-40, Ultra 0w-40, Mobil European 0/5w-40 fill on the old Juke just to see what happened with these stout oils, and the manufacturer went the exact opposite way.

I am familiar with the standard answers on what to do, characterized as:
1) Manufacturer knows best, 0w-20 only and forever
2) Don't risk the warranty, 0w-20 until it expires then katie bar the door
3) Do what you want, it's your car and the manufacturer is just trying to meet CAFE
4) 0w-20's are elixir of the Gods and will not shear where all others have
5) Why are you even pretending to ask when you know the standard anwers already

I have a substantial stash, as I have previously mentioned, pretty light on 0w-20 (Mobil EP), plenty of PU 5/10w-30 (low noack, GTL, premo stuff), 0w-30 Mobil AFE, Castrol Edge EP 0/5w-20, older SM 5/10w-30 MC7500, QSUD 5w-30, some PP 0/5/10w-20/30, Castrol GC 0w-30, Castrol Edge black bottle from Germany, 0w-40,a decent variety.

I'll get a FF UOA on the Juke early, swap it out with what I consider a short term, "flush" oil change (MC 5w-30 probably), UOA that, and then settle on some version of a 2 part winter/summer solution. Use of vehicle during school year is short trip, never warm, on/off most of the time. During summer, some regular 3000+ trips. So maybe I at least ATTEMPT 0w-20 when it is cold, and perhaps throw 5w-30 of any kind at it when warm, do UOA, see if this vehicle mimics the other one in terms of being a shear monster?

Knowing it is DI and on short trips, low Noack is a requirement. Low meaning, I might sacrifice weight (10w- during summer instead of 5W-, 5w- in winter as opposed to 0w-) to keep Noack closer to 5 than 10.

 

[SLATRON]

I'd probably try the PU ,10w30 first for this summer, jmo

 

[silverrat]

If you plan on trading cars every few years I wouldn't worry at all about oil choice or UOA.

 

[Kuato]

DI + turbo + short trips = super harsh.

Maybe try the stoutest 0w20 you can find on a short interval. What is the manufacturer's recommended OCI?

If it shears badly, then move up a grade and see where that ends up. You may have to run very short intervals to keep it in grade, depending on shearing.

 

[camrydriver111]

Impressive stash! Looks like you are well-armed to combat the effects of DI, turbo, and short trips.

I would just use the 5W30, heavier oil, Nissan approves. Win win?

 

[Eddie]

Your stash suggests you haven't a clue as to what oil you normally want to use. Based on that, I would use what the manufactures recommends which appears to be 0w20 or 5w30. I am not aware that this engine or modern DI engines are overly very hard on oil. Ed

 

[Donald]

How do you drive? Very aggressive?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I've read 0w20 EC PCMO got an API/ILSAC exemption on TEOST spec for excessive sludging. I would do the stout REAL synthetic oil with minimal or NONE viscosity modifiers: RL or AMSOIL ATM 30 grade. NO ILSAC Oils.

 

[A_Harman]

How about a good 5w20 synthetic? They are generally less shear prone than 0w20's. I don't think the dealer will give you grief for running a 5w20 instead of the 0w20. It's the high temperature viscosity that's more important. A 5wXX should get through a Denver winter without much trouble.

The old PU 5w20 was nearly bulletproof, but good luck in finding any now. The new PUP data sheets don't show any HTHS or NOACK numbers, but they're probably pretty good.

 

[RGR]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
Your stash suggests you haven't a clue as to what oil you normally want to use.


Not quite. It suggests that I buy $1/qt sales, quantity based on availability, I trend high-quality and non-boutique, volume weighting of stash indicates a predilection towards GTL base stocks, and I might not believe that there are near the differences claimed in performance of quality non-boutique oils that some might maintain.

How is that for a refinement of what passes for a clue?

Originally Posted By: Eddie

Based on that, I would use what the manufactures recommends which appears to be 0w20 or 5w30. I am not aware that this engine or modern DI engines are overly very hard on oil. Ed


My DI Ford Focus was not. My last Juke sheared different oils badly enough that the Blackstone folks writing the commentary on the UOA's thought I was lying about what I put in the crankcase. Do you consider shearing down to the next lower grade of QSUD, MC7500, PU within 2000 city or 3000 road trip miles to be "very hard on oil"?

Here are the two comments I received from Blackstone, one for 2000 miles on QSUD, the other a 3000 mile road trip on PU.

Quote:
The viscosity was a little low, but
that's not usually a major concern. So far, so good!


Quote:

Are you sure you put 10W/30 in when the oil was changed?

 

[RGR]

Originally Posted By: Donald
How do you drive? Very aggressive?


Daughter putters to and from school. In 9000 miles on the 2013 Juke, I thrashed it in the canyon exactly once. I use road trips to make sure it gets "the carbon blown out" as it were.

 

[geeman789]

Be careful... it may not be the oil shearing down to a lower grade... it may be fuel dilution from the DI engine... and Blackstone fuel readings apparently are supposedly less than consistent.

If that is the case, thicker oil will maintain viscosity longer, but the best course of action is short OCI's ...

How does the oil smell...?

 

[RGR]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I would do the stout REAL synthetic oil with minimal or NONE viscosity modifiers: RL or AMSOIL ATM 30 grade. NO ILSAC Oils.


Certainly the manufacturing of base stock from natural gas is as synthetic as it gets, and I have avoided boutique oils for cost and certification reasons in the past. Pour point and Noack between Amsoil, RL and PU are all pretty similar, and are my main criteria for determining base stock quality. After that it becomes a complex chemistry argument that I haven't delved into much, and for my OCI requirements, not sure I need to.

Now, if there are $1/qt sales on occasions from these folks, and they have the required API stamp on them, I would certainly reconsider my position, they look like fine oils, just getting hosed a little in the "value" component.

 

[RGR]

Originally Posted By: geeman789
Be careful... it may not be the oil shearing down to a lower grade... it may be fuel dilution from the DI engine... and Blackstone fuel readings apparently are supposedly less than consistent.


No sign of fuel dilution on Blackstone UOAs. No secondary indicators like smell either. But I'll keep it in mind.

Originally Posted By: geeman789

If that is the case, thicker oil will maintain viscosity longer, but the best course of action is short OCI's ...

How does the oil smell...?


Like oil. No fuel smell at all.

I like shorter OCI's, having an oil changing addiction, it means I have the excuse to indulge more often. I have never been so depressed as the day I realized that the 3000 OCI was history and had been banished by better oil chemistry, and I would now be forced into more of a 5000 OCI regime.

 

[wemay]

With a 5000 mile oci, i would stick with Nissan's recommendations of 0w20 or 5w30.

 

[RGR]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman

The old PU 5w20 was nearly bulletproof, but good luck in finding any now.


I can find it easily, I must have 4-6 5-qt jugs in the garage. Was going to use it for winter fill in Jeep Pentastar. Can be retasked, certainly. I've got a Ford requiring 5w-20 that wouldn't mind it year round.

Originally Posted By: A_Harman

The new PUP data sheets don't show any HTHS or NOACK numbers, but they're probably pretty good.


I object to PUP because of 1) existence of stash and 2) it was "dumbed down" compared to the old PU, and I find myself irritated at Pennzoil for having done it, and like to vote with my $$ when annoyed. So no PUP for me. Now, if they improve it back to match the specs of the PU...well...then I will consider them reformed, and will consider coming back to the fold.

 

[CrawfishTails]

Top it off with a M1 15w-50, up to a quart, or M1 Racing 0w-50 up to a half a quart, or maybe go a quart of Castrol 0w-40 or M1 0w-40 to thicken things up a bit. Half dose of STP Oil Treatment is a known thickener as well. Choices here.

 

[RGR]

Originally Posted By: wemay
With a 5000 mile oci, i would stick with Nissan's recommendations of 0w20 or 5w30.


From Blackstone, this comment:

Originally Posted By: Blackstone
Are you sure you put 10W/30 in when the oil was changed? The viscosity was in the 5W/30 range, so if that's what was put in use, then the viscosity doesn't need to be marked.


The oil was PU, 10w-30 and Blackstone listed this:

SUS Viscosity @210F ....... 56.1..... Values should be 58-65
cSt Viscosity @ 100C ....... 9.10..... Values should be 9.7-11.9

I am not positive I understand the significance of these numbers, in determining why they couldn't spot it as a 10w-30 oil, but instead looked like a 5w-30. In either case, to get much stouter than PU, I would be forced to try GC in whatever flavor I can get (0w-40 and 0w-30 being the two I have in garage right now, but only a single change, and the stuff doesn't go on steep discount often).

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: RGR
Originally Posted By: A_Harman

The old PU 5w20 was nearly bulletproof, but good luck in finding any now.


I can find it easily, I must have 4-6 5-qt jugs in the garage. Was going to use it for winter fill in Jeep Pentastar. Can be retasked, certainly. I've got a Ford requiring 5w-20 that wouldn't mind it year round.

Originally Posted By: A_Harman

The new PUP data sheets don't show any HTHS or NOACK numbers, but they're probably pretty good.


I object to PUP because of 1) existence of stash and 2) it was "dumbed down" compared to the old PU, and I find myself irritated at Pennzoil for having done it, and like to vote with my $$ when annoyed. So no PUP for me. Now, if they improve it back to match the specs of the PU...well...then I will consider them reformed, and will consider coming back to the fold.


I know where you're coming from on PU vs PUP. I stocked up on PU 5w30 when I saw the NOACK number for PUP 5w30. I have enough to last me for a couple of years. Hopefully something good will happen to PUP by the time my stash runs out, but it's not the only oil in the world...

 

[wemay]

Lets put aside the dilution (shear) for a bit. What did the Blackstone wear numbers look like? Many GDi applications show dilution, especially during break-in, but the wear numbers almost always appear in check.