Seafoam in the Intake

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Ive seen alot of stuff on here about introducing seafoam into the intake, but, with it being a liquid, i'm trying to figure out how. I have a valve cover vent line that goes to the intake before the throttle body. Would that work? I can't locate a brake line that goes to the intake anywhere... Or would it be OK to simply put a whole bunch of this stuff into the intake manifold by pouring it in through an open throttle body. Thanks!
 
If you had a carb. set up, you could just pour in it from there. With injection, you have to dig a little more. I know in the F150's, you can run it through the brake booster vacuum line. In your case I'd check to see what kind of suction you have from that hose. Also, make sure it is before the TB and a straight shot. I mean, there are no T connections anywhere, just straight to the TB, then you should be OK. One thing I have wondered though.....Seafoam is a solvent. Would this stuff "eat" through the hoses when you let it suck in?
 
I've done this on one of my old SHOs - I used the PCV line, IIRC. Don't suck the stuff in too fast or you'll hydrolock your engine.
 
You should pour it (slowly) down the throttle body. I would suggest the Deep creep version for this, which is the same thing as seafoam, only in an aerosol can.
 
AMSOIL Powerfoam is an excellent cleaner for the issues you describe.


Change your oil within 1000 miles of introducing any cleaning solvent like these or you will increase bearing wear as the oil will be depleted by the chemistry of these cleaners.

Terry
 
quote:

Would this stuff "eat" through the hoses when you let it suck in?

Schmoe,

The Seafoam should have evaporated or have been suck in by the time it thinks about eating rubber.
gr_eek2.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:
Change your oil within 1000 miles of introducing any cleaning solvent like these or you will increase bearing wear as the oil will be depleted by the chemistry of these cleaners.

Wouldn't any solvent that made it into your oil just burn off within a few hundred miles?
 
ZmOz, yes portions of the chemistry would, not before TBN adds are neutralized and in some cases the cleaner depolymerizes the lube itself.

Chemical shearing of the oil allows the vis to break down from design levels and can increase blowby starting a cycle allowing increased oxidation and nitration.

Some of the cleaners react with the bearing surfaces scavanging the protective coverings of the EP adds allowing or even encouraging increased wear.

The chemists here may be able to cover something I left out.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:
Change your oil within 1000 miles of introducing any cleaning solvent like these or you will increase bearing wear as the oil will be depleted by the chemistry of these cleaners.

Terry


But this doesn't apply to a solvent such as Lube Control? Or does the low concentration make a difference in that case?
 
Amsoil Power Foam gets my vote!!! Amsoil Power Foam is a great product. It is easy to use and does exactly what it claims. It is much safer then dumping liquids into the engine. It is possable when adding liquids directly to an intak to hydro-lock the engine. Power Foam pretty much elimanates this as an issue!

If you are doing Auto-Rx treatment right now it might be prudent to wait until you are at the end of it. It would proably be better to not add any further chemistrys to this mix until it has had a chance to do it's thing.
 
quote:

But this doesn't apply to a solvent such as Lube Control? Or does the low concentration make a difference in that case?

With LC, certain cleaning components evaporate within about 800-1200 miles leaving behind the anti-ox lubricanting components. This is what is so neat about LC.
 
Do you think powerfoam would change the way the rinse phase works with ARX? Just started thinking about it and it might change the chemistry enough to cause some problems with rinsing.
 
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