School me on 2015-2020 tundras

I have owned many a full size truck from Toyota and others. My 21 Tundra (last year for the V8) is a great truck. It all depends on what you are looking for as far as towing, ride, resale and all that good stuff. I have had 2 older Toyotas go past 300K
 
I was just researching the seemingly common problem of LH timing chain tensioner or guide causing noise at start-up.

I had never heard of this but if you go looking for it it's all over Tundra forums. Maybe some Ford 3V engineers fudged their resumes a bit and slipped in at Toyota???

That said, I haven't found reports of catastrophic failures-- just a noise that gets worse and worse until people finally can't take it anymore.

Fixing the issue looks pretty much the same as a timing set on a Ford modular as far as labor.

Does anyone know why it seems to always be the LH bank??
 
I was just researching the seemingly common problem of LH timing chain tensioner or guide causing noise at start-up.

I had never heard of this but if you go looking for it it's all over Tundra forums. Maybe some Ford 3V engineers fudged their resumes a bit and slipped in at Toyota???

That said, I haven't found reports of catastrophic failures-- just a noise that gets worse and worse until people finally can't take it anymore.

Fixing the issue looks pretty much the same as a timing set on a Ford modular as far as labor.

Does anyone know why it seems to always be the LH bank??
Hadn’t heard of this. No timing chain noise yet. No problems at all, yet. But only 75,000. And the oil changes have been regular.
 
Hadn’t heard of this. No timing chain noise yet. No problems at all, yet. But only 75,000. And the oil changes have been regular.
My buddy's just started doing it at 78k. I found another user (not here) who said his started at 80k but he went to at least 130k with no problems except more noise.

It's in this thread here and post #2 has a "rabbit hole" of links.

I'm not a member of that forum. With searching there are threads on several Tundra forums. I can't keep them straight as I'm not a member of any.

My buddy says his seems to definitely be driver side, which seems to be one of the strong indicators of "chain slap." Right now his is only on cold mornings (gee, we're rolling into winter in CO) and this seems to also be how it begins. He sent me a sound clip and if that's hydraulic lifters pumping up then the engine is near toast, ie it's not lifters.

I'm not badmouthing Toyota but was surprised to see this seems to be an issue no one talks about but people are talking about.

No reason to panic (I know the Toyota fan bois are amassing pitchforks right now). The sky is not falling. Just something to consider when shopping. :D
 
LH timing chain tensioners and cam tower leaks are the only real bugaboos for the 5.7. Neither is truly something that will leave you on the side of the road.

I've seen reports of people going many tens of thousands of miles with the tensioner issue. Once the engine warms up and enough oil pressure builds, the tensioner starts working and the noise stops. More of an annoyance than anything, it seems. I've not seen any reports of premature guide/chain failure or skipped timing due to the weak tensioner.
 
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LH timing chain tensioners and cam tower leaks are the only real bugaboos for the 5.7. Neither is truly something that will leave you on the side of the road.

I've seen reports of people going many tens of thousands of miles with the tensioner issue. Once the engine warms up and enough oil pressure builds, the tensioner starts working and the noise stops. More of an annoyance than anything, it seems. I've not seen any reports of premature guide/chain failure or skipped timing due to the weak tensioner.
Yep, some report thicker oil like 5W-30 helps while others swear thicker oil will destroy the VVT system and simultaneously kill a bus load of nuns.

Coming from the 3V world-- and presently running 10W40 and 20W50 to prop up failed tensioners -- I'd be inclined to try 5W-30 if it were my truck.
 
Yep, some report thicker oil like 5W-30 helps while others swear thicker oil will destroy the VVT system and simultaneously kill a bus load of nuns.

Coming from the 3V world-- and presently running 10W40 and 20W50 to prop up failed tensioners -- I'd be inclined to try 5W-30 if it were my truck.
I have to wonder if running 5W30 from the beginning helps?

Don‘t know, just know mine has been OK so far.

I tried spending time on the tundra forums when I first got the truck.

I found them worthless - an unbelievable amount of chest-beating, name-calling, petty bickering, stupid posts, and uninformed opinions on technical issues, made them both unreadable, and of little value.
 
cam tower leaks
coolant valley
secondary air

are usually the hotspots.

from there you have frame rust, door look actuators, brake accumulator.

rounding the end is overall maintenance interval and PPI.

Tundras have issues like any other truck, just need to get a good look over/ppi
 
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I found them worthless - an unbelievable amount of chest-beating, name-calling, petty bickering, stupid posts, and uninformed opinions on technical issues, made them both unreadable, and of little value.
I'd have to agree, only it was worse in my case, as I had the lowly 4.6L!

I hung out for a bit, but eventually wandered off, little value added, once I got past some of the basic things to be learned. Very much Ford vs Chevy mentality, 'cept now in a 3 way bicker.
 
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I have to wonder if running 5W30 from the beginning helps?

Don‘t know, just know mine has been OK so far.

I tried spending time on the tundra forums when I first got the truck.

I found them worthless - an unbelievable amount of chest-beating, name-calling, petty bickering, stupid posts, and uninformed opinions on technical issues, made them both unreadable, and of little value.
On my cars i have been hesitant to up a grade for this reason. i figured engineers probably spec'd the oil for a reason, and im just a bored driver looking to solve issues where are ther none.

Truthe be told, the only oil Im interested in trying an a thicker Oci would be 0w40.
 
On my cars i have been hesitant to up a grade for this reason. i figured engineers probably spec'd the oil for a reason, and im just a bored driver looking to solve issues where are ther none.

Truthe be told, the only oil Im interested in trying an a thicker Oci would be 0w40.
And if that reason was CAFE?

We’ve been over this literally dozens of times here. Toyota says use 0w20, then they say:

“A higher viscosity oil may be better suited if engine is operated in high temperatures, or under high load.”

So, better suited means that, no, a bus full of nuns won’t die, and neither will the engine.

Here is the page the owners manual….

IMG_0769.jpeg
 
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I have to wonder if running 5W30 from the beginning helps?

Don‘t know, just know mine has been OK so far.

I tried spending time on the tundra forums when I first got the truck.

I found them worthless - an unbelievable amount of chest-beating, name-calling, petty bickering, stupid posts, and uninformed opinions on technical issues, made them both unreadable, and of little value.
Same with Jeep forums - I normally wait until warranty to ditch 0W20 but started 5W30 early on the Rubicon bcs of valve-train …
 
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I've seen earlier 5.7s in videos and the filler cap clearly called out either 5W-20 or 5W-30? I don't remember which?

Did anything change from Gen 1 to 2 to 2.5?

Ford initially called out 5W-20 in the 6.2. They later changed that to 5W-30 with ZERO change to hard parts AFAIK. So yeah, CAFE is real
 
On my cars i have been hesitant to up a grade for this reason. i figured engineers probably spec'd the oil for a reason, and im just a bored driver looking to solve issues where are ther none.

Truthe be told, the only oil Im interested in trying an a thicker Oci would be 0w40.
My poor 2V 4.6 with 240k seems to really like the Amazon Basics 0W-40 I got dirt cheap. It's basically eliminated start up rattle which is interesting because it should have metal ratcheting tensioners (although they do sort of pump up in the "float" between relatively coarse teeth-- kind of a hybrid IMO)
 
Brother is in the market for a newer tundra at the $20k mark. His 05 with 350,000mi is starting to have some rust-related issues which will not be worth fixing at this point.

I'm trying to help him out, but don't know much about Tundras besides doing some basic maintenance on some his 1st gen 4.7

Are there any notable differences in technology, reliability or other points year to year within the 2015-20 ranges? Are certain years more desirable than others?

Thanks

There were a number of upgrades in the 2014-2021 generation, sometimes called the Gen 2.5. The later trucks got more updated technology, 2018 saw lots of tech upgrades, followed by keyless and Carplay Android Auto in 2020-2021. As already mentioned, auxiliary transmission coolers were gone after 2018 but there is still a heat exchanger (fed by engine coolant). However, at the 20K mark you will be looking at the older models in this generation. The basic body, drivetrain and interior on a 2014 is pretty much the same as a 2021. So if your brother doesn't care about the newer tech, than an older Gen 2.5 is fine. Overall, despite the dissenters in this thread, these are statistically the most reliable fullsize trucks you can buy. Some have more issues than others, just like any other make, but overall they are very solid trucks. I sold my 2008 this year with 185K trouble free miles, and without hesitation shopped for a 2020-2021 Tundra as I plan to keep it as long as my last truck. I have driven many other later model big three trucks, and while they are "better" or more advanced in some areas, in particular tech and convenience features, there was nothing complleing enough to pull me away from another Tundra. So I bought a 2021. And that's not to say I just bought the truck for reliablity and simplicity. I really like the way it drives and its very comfortable. They are great trucks, and most Tundra owners you talk to really like them.

This video by the Car Care Nut is one of the better one that summerizes the issues that can crop up with a Tundra.



It is disappointing at the lack of love that Tundra is getting on this page, lots of gross generalizations and incorrect information. For one thing, the AIP (air injection) system has been updated and not as problematic as the early 2nd Gens. Toyota actually has an extended warranty on it, which IIRC covers it for 8 years, and often will replace the entire system even it one compenent fails. 2WD models are very rare, I have never seen one. There are also several local companies that use Tundras as their exclusive work trucks, and they work just as well as any other half ton. Having owned two of these trucks, I can say there isn't anything I have encountered that a competitive half-ton does signficantly better. Maybe the fuel economy is much worse, but this is exagerated and considering it is essentially a 2007 drivetrain, it does fine. My lifetime average on my 2008 was 17 mpg (US), which I though was ok. From my recent rentals of a Ram Classics for work trips, when I hand calcudlate the fuel econmy, the Hemi 5.7L 8sp is only about 10% better in fuel econmy compared to my truck. I have noticed that the last couple Rams I have rented have had computers that estimate MPGs to be much higher than what the actual fuel economy is, compared to my Tundra which is usually farily close and if anything underestimates the fuel economy. I will say that the F-150s with the EcoBoosts I have driven are a better for MPGs than the RAMs and a signficant amount higher than Tundra. But the cost difference isn't enough for my to switch to F150, especially since I don't particuarly care for the way an F-150 drives.
 
I have a 2017 SR5 Double cab. It's been flawless. Just did the tires and front brakes at 85,000 km. Could have gone 100K. I can get 22 mpg on a long stretch of highway and 15 + mixed.

Paco
 
My brother has not had any driveline problems with his 2014 OR

His dark blue paint has gone completely to garbage. I mean bad

The stock Bilsteins all blew out really early
 
I owned a 4.7 in a 2006. It was a stout, smooth, refined engine that consumed zero oil at 150k miles. All 3 owners towed with it, and we towed at the edge of its rating. The Aisin Warner 5spd behind it was also flawless on amsoil. The gen 1 was not early as comfortable, quiet, or good handling as the f150 i moved to, but it got full respect.
 
I've seen earlier 5.7s in videos and the filler cap clearly called out either 5W-20 or 5W-30? I don't remember which?

Did anything change from Gen 1 to 2 to 2.5?

Ford initially called out 5W-20 in the 6.2. They later changed that to 5W-30 with ZERO change to hard parts AFAIK. So yeah, CAFE is real
The early 5.7L had 5W20 on the cap but the manual said you could use 0W20 as an alternative choice. My assumption was at that time, circa 2007, 5W20 was much more readily available and cheaper than 0W20. At some point over the generation, Toyota switch to 0W20 on the oil cap and as the primary recommended oil.

FWIW, my 2008 5.7 ran 5W20 while it was under lease for the first few years. I bought it off a lease and ran M1 0W20 for the vast majority of its mileage. When I sold it at 185k miles it had essentially zero consumption or any other oil related issues. I am am running the same 0W20 with my 2021 so far.
 
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