Salvage auction purchase, 2010 Mercedes ML 350

A lot to post, but here is a hasty update. Continued to blow 7.5 amp fuse that provides 12vdc to the central gateway. Paid for the electrical diagrams, and discovered the obd port also gets its 12vdc from this lead.

I have a icarsoft plugged into the obd port. If it remove the icarsoft the fuse no longer blows. Plug the icarsoft in, the fuse blows.

Will be going through the obd wiring next.......
I've heard of techs using FLIR cameras to spot shorts. You can get an attachment for $400 that works on iPhones or Androids. Stand alone units are much more. Unless this fuse blows immediately, maybe a temp sensing camera can show a hot spot?

Here's a video I made of heated seats. Your short might not be getting as hot as a heated seat element but on a cool night and cold car, attaching the battery might reveal hot spots under the hood, dash, or hidden behind the headliner.

 
Last edited:
She is running. Updated to follow.
PXL_20230603_173938145.jpg
PXL_20230603_173925368.jpg
 
She is running. Updated to follow.

View attachment 159248
We had no doubt that you were going to solve this puzzle and get it started. I can't wait to hear the details on what you found and how you got it running. Kind of like following a mystery novel where every update is another page turner.

It looks like your next move is to hit the gas pump after returning the U-Haul trailer. LOL!
 
She is home. N7, you are spot on I needed to get fuel. That is often a sign I look for, if a fuel tank is half or more full, the situation that placed the vehicle in the salvage yard was likely unplanned.

I had a high and a low yesterday. I found at a pull a part a like car that was a recent arrival, about 117 miles away. Went to the car, and wanted four parts. two of the four parts were pulled, but the top two were still there. And to my amazement, the parts were ready to pull- these parts are buried under the front seats. I could not believe only five minutes to pull the two parts. Returned and plugged in the two parts, car was still dead as a doornail except for the radio. Worked another hour, nothing. Hit a mental low. Picked my Wife up some groceries and headed home for the night a bit defeated.

This morning I printed out the fuse box charts, rather than look at the charts on my cell phone. I also purchased for $14.99 all electronic drawings and printed those out. Looking at the drawings, I saw the positive lead to the central gateway, also provides power to the OBD port. Come to find out, maybe the car caused it, but my icorsoft MB code reader was causing the 7.5 amp fuse to blow. I had left the reader plugged on 24x7 to help show any signs of life. It in fact may have been causing me to look at things not needing attention.

After removing the code reader, I went back to basics. SOMETHING I SHOULD HAVE DONE WHEN I SAW THE CUT WIRES. I audited the other two fuse boxes, one in the passenger compartment, and the other under the hood. I found nicked positive leads to the passenger fuse box (see pic), but no cut/ open wire, nor any signs of shorting. During the audit I discovered missing fuses. Replaced the fuses, but car still dead. Checked the voltage at these two fuse boxes, and found none. Looked at the electrical drawings, and traced the lack of power to a 30 AMP pre fuse. Replaced the pre fuse, and low and behold she started.

Went to take her off the trailer in a huge hurry, because another day of rental was to start in 20 minutes. Took of the tire tie downs and went to drive her off the trailer, but she would only move a inch and freeze. I started to think the tow driver that recovered the car may have towed her in park. A second look, I forgot to remove the trailer safety chain. Removed the chain and off she went.

After returning the trailer, I returned to the car. She started up again, could not hear the car run- it is that quiet. I bolted the driver seat back to the body, and went to the car wash. Next the gas station, and finally the seven mile drive home. She runs like a Rolex. I still have a full day putting her back together and cleaning up the wires, and have to find a running board- but I like everything I see.
PXL_20230603_165943091.jpg
PXL_20230603_165548695.jpg
PXL_20230603_184047257.jpg
PXL_20230603_192251340.jpg
PXL_20230603_192246347.jpg
 
Last edited:
I did a seven paragraph write-up, and the last five disappeared. Going to take a lunch break, and will return and rewrite the missing five paragraphs.
 
Another amazing WIN for GON! Your diagnostic and sleuthing skills are impressive, to say the least. I don't know where you get the energy to pursue this auto restoration hobby while also travelling the globe as your day job.

Your best move was to sleep on it last night after reaching a level of frustration. You owe it to yourself to exhale and decompress. Time to take Mrs. GON out on the town for a celebratory dinner!
 
Glad to hear you made progress, GON! No way would I bite into a job like that in my old age.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GON
LR,

No I don't think someone purposely cut the wires. I speculate there was stress on the wiring harness from a repair in the right quarter panel. Then a careless mechanic sloppy tried to troubleshoot like a bull in a china shop, resulting in the problem becoming worse than when he started the troubleshooting.

I conclude the above, because two key areas the mechanic needed to get to as part of the troubleshooting process remained untouched, under booth the driver and passenger front seats. It requires some deliberate actions to get under those seats when they won't move on their own. Yet, he chose to push and pull all the wires he could easily get to, rather than come up with a way to get under those seats.

All speculation on my part.
 
I am truly amazed at what you are able to do w/ this auction cars. Where do you get the information for the wiring diagrams??
Ld,

Usually I just isolate without any diagrams except a fuse box chart. This repaired required me to purchase the wiring diagrams on line for 14.99. I am sure they are available for free somewhere, but I was under a time crunch because of the trailer rental, so paid the piper.
 
GON,

That's great news. I'm glad to hear that you were able to fix it without having to buy a ton of special electrical parts. I had a feeling that the fault in this case was going to end up being something simple (even if it was hard to find).

I hate working on anything that someone has tinkered with before me. You just can't make any assumptions that wires haven't been cut or wires reversed or anything else. You have to double checked EVERYTHING.

Again congratulations!
 
Ld,

Usually I just isolate without any diagrams except a fuse box chart. This repaired required me to purchase the wiring diagrams on line for 14.99. I am sure they are available for free somewhere, but I was under a time crunch because of the trailer rental, so paid the piper.

The 14.99 is a good price, can you share the source. I am looking to purchase the electrical diagrams for a 2004 CRV.
 
Test drive went great. She is back together less interior plastic trim pieces and the cloth tape wrapping of the wiring harness.

Three identified items left. The lights switch/ auto light on and off is not working. Switch appears to be not functioning. Lights do work fine. The rear door does not auto open. I think it is likely a cut plug. The right running board needs to be replaced. Local junk yard appears to have one, but they have not called me back- I will go in person this week..

She drives great at 60 MPH. Other than a badly needed oil change, I would drive her from Seattle to Miami tomorrow. Total cost appears to be about $3500. I think I could have done this for $2800, but that is how it goes.

PXL_20230611_150928687.jpg
PXL_20230612_040722853.jpg
 
I’d say this was a big win! A very nice vehicle for $3,500 and some of your time. I love reading the process of diagnosing electrical issues as someone that stinks at that kind of thing. Great job!
 
I’d say this was a big win! A very nice vehicle for $3,500 and some of your time. I love reading the process of diagnosing electrical issues as someone that stinks at that kind of thing. Great job!
The like 2010 ML350 that I "won" at auction last week but didn't meet the reserve ($1600), sold at "Buy It Now" last night for $3,000. That is almost $4,000 with fees. That MB will need two to four airbags, clockspring, airbag control module, new rim and tire, and possible undercarriage repair. That vehicle does not have dealer maintenance records, and 25k miles. Demonstrates how the market can shift in just two weeks.

I am sure you could and would nail the electrical issues. It is easier for me as I am not under a "time crunch". I wonder how many wiring harnesses are replaced because of time, not troubleshoot instead.
 
KBB suggests it's around a $7.5k private party, $6k trade-in vehicle so probably an $11-12k dealer ask. Excellent for $3500 spent plus $1k or so maybe? of time invested.
 
Back
Top