Rust Proofing - Now you can get it!

[StevieC]

Corrosion Free is offered at places like Canadian Tire where the folks get little to no training on how to properly apply the product. I've seen the tire busters applying it how they think they should and they miss important spots and overdo it on others. Rust-Check is similar, they will sell the product anyone any let them apply it.

Krown is the only rust proofing company that forces their shops and its employees to re-certify annually on how to properly apply the products and what problem areas to pay special attention to on certain model vehicles.

I'm glad you had good success with Corrosion Free but I can guarantee you Krown is better. Our family has treated its vehicles with Krown since the 1980's and they all had 0 rust after 15-20 years and 1/2 a million kilometers

If your experience with Krown wasn't right then it wasn't applied properly at whatever shop you went to or it wasn't done annually and I would have complained because they stand behind their product and wouldn't be #1 in Canada if they didn't.

They also do many fleets like Bell Trucks, Hydro One etc. as well. If they truly had problems these companies wouldn't have seen the benefits.

Also if Krown had problems they wouldn't be #1, they wouldn't be BBB accredited and there would be scores of people all over the internet complaining. Further their shops would have gone under not continued to expand seeing all they do is rust-proofing and not offer multiple services like Canadian Tire does.

Here is a video showing a Corrosion Free application from Canadian Tire, first hand.

 

[OVERKILL]

There was a test done by the Canadian Military that supports what KrisZ says FWIW. In terms of a product holding up in actual comparative testing, Corrosion Free was the best. However, having to get it applied at CT negates that benefit if it doesn't end up where it needs to be.

 

[KrisZ]

Yes I was referring to how well the product holds up and my experience mirrors that military study. Thanks Overkill for pointing it out.

I think Stevie forgets that most people on BITOG live in US with no Krown shops available. It's not a big deal for us Canadians as most cities and towns have a Krown shop, or several. They're like Tim Hortons for rustproofing lol.
However I know that a lot of BITOGers from US, that ask about rustproofing, will DIY and for DIY they have equal or better products readily available online. There is no need to seek out Krown T40 if a Krown shop is not going to apply it.

 

[StevieC]

As this thread is about buying the product and having it shipped to the US it's completely relevant that there are no shops in the U.S. aside from the ones that others named Carwell / Buffalo Krown locations.

Furthermore what good is Corrosion free if the people applying it are doing it wrong?

Third please send supporting information, if it is in-fact better I will switch. (REALLY)

 

[StevieC]

I found the study.

After quick review. (I will read more in depth this weekend when I have some time) The comparison puts Krown right up there with Corrosion Free. The difference isn't anything mind blowing.

But never the less I will investigate.

http://cradpdf.drdc-rddc.gc.ca/PDFS/unc53/p526285.pdf

We also need to take into account that this study was from the early 2000's and Krown is forever tweaking their formula. (Email them and they will confirm it) as vehicle needs change. So this all might be moot.

But I'm open to the idea of there being something better out there and will see through my connections at Canadian Tire and Krown if we can run a test on some nuts/bolts exposed to weather. Maybe I will tie them under neath the SUV for a year and see what happens to each treated with the product.

Would be interesting.

 

[StevieC]

You can get both of them in an Aerosol so I will buy a can of each and treat some nuts/bolts and hang them underneath my Journey until the spring and then until next year and compare the results.

Sound good?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
I found the study.

After quick review. (I will read more in depth this weekend when I have some time) The comparison puts Krown right up there with Corrosion Free. The difference isn't anything mind blowing.



The results state:

Quote:
The average mass loss for the control sample at CFB Trenton was 0.8%, while that of St. Jean Baptiste was 3.7%. These results indicate that the CFB Trenton climate was more benign than that of St. Jean Baptiste. At CFB Trenton, the CPCs were effective with all having above 85% inhibition. By contrast, the CPCs showed a range of inhibition from 28% to 83% at the St. Jean Baptiste site. In a benign environment, the CPCs tested, performed equally well. In more severe environments, the choice of CPC is important. of the CPCs tested, Corrosion Free, Formula 3000 showed the most corrosion inhibition.


Which are accompanied by the following graphic:



Which, for the more severe site show a progression of best to worst as:

1. Corrosion Free
2. ACF-50
3. Boeshield
4. Krown
5. WD-40
6. Rust Check Dripless
7. LPS-2
8. Rust Check Red
9. Corrosion Block

Now of course as you mentioned, these products are constantly being improved, but the test has at least some value in showing what held up the best back when tested.

 

[camrydriver111]

The test shows that if applied to the same material in the same way Corrosion Free is better.

Maybe Corrosion Free is a better chemical but how it's applied also matters.

Krown has a lot of positive real world reviews and for that reason I'm leaning towards trying Krown. Besides, I am too scared to take my car to Canadian Tire.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
The test shows that if applied to the same material in the same way Corrosion Free is better.

Maybe Corrosion Free is a better chemical but how it's applied also matters.

Krown has a lot of positive real world reviews and for that reason I'm leaning towards trying Krown. Besides, I am too scared to take my car to Canadian Tire.



Exactly, and that's the point Stevie has made as well. You can have great or not so great application experiences, I'd wager that the experience at CT is by and large going to be inferior to that of a place that specializes in it like Krown. That said, our local Krown I've found has been less than generous with their applications to the point where I go to Rust Check, despite what the chart above shows. They put it on very liberally; their application process and amount of product is superior to our local Krown, so I agree with both your assessments.

 

[StevieC]

I'm going to run the test with an equal amount applied of both products to some general metal springs and stick them to the bottom of the Journey using Neodymium magnets for the winter season and I will check it in the spring. That way we can compare the latest of their formulations and see a good real world test unbiased about how it was applied / how much was applied.

I will take pictures of everything of course.

For the record I think I have had such great success with Krown because my shop takes the time to do it properly and it applies a lot of product. So much so that I can have it done in the Fall and by the following summer when we get a really hot day you will see it seeping at the folds etc. and in between summer car washes it will mix with the dust in the air during regular driving at these folded metal points like where the bumper meets the wheel well or the bottoms of the doors, and it will leave a slightly dark black residue that can be seen until the next wash washed it away and then it shows up again. This is that product continually creeping to keep the metal protected.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: StevieC


For the record I think I have had such great success with Krown because my shop takes the time to do it properly and it applies a lot of product. So much so that I can have it done in the Fall and by the following summer when we get a really hot day you will see it seeping at the folds etc. and in between summer car washes it will mix with the dust in the air during regular driving at these folded metal points like where the bumper meets the wheel well or the bottoms of the doors, and it will leave a slightly dark black residue that can be seen until the next wash washed it away and then it shows up again. This is that product continually creeping to keep the metal protected.


That's the way the place we used out east did it. My old Lincoln used to have it creep out all over the place the day after you washed it, a good 6" up and down from any seam, it was amazing.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: StevieC


For the record I think I have had such great success with Krown because my shop takes the time to do it properly and it applies a lot of product. So much so that I can have it done in the Fall and by the following summer when we get a really hot day you will see it seeping at the folds etc. and in between summer car washes it will mix with the dust in the air during regular driving at these folded metal points like where the bumper meets the wheel well or the bottoms of the doors, and it will leave a slightly dark black residue that can be seen until the next wash washed it away and then it shows up again. This is that product continually creeping to keep the metal protected.


That's the way the place we used out east did it. My old Lincoln used to have it creep out all over the place the day after you washed it, a good 6" up and down from any seam, it was amazing.


That's the problem I had with the two different shops I used. When I started with my Mazda 3 back in 06, they applied a lot of the product, just like you guys describe. But as the years went by, I noticed that less and less product was applied. I started touching up with Corrosion Free in the wheel wells and other high wash areas (that's how I know it holds up better). After few years of that, I realized that I can do a much better job for much, much cheaper, so instead of complaining I dropped them and started DIY-ing.
Now, when I bought our Grand Caravan, I went back to Krown to get a good coating inside the cavities, since I can't fog with my cheap Shutz gun. That was late summer and the undercarriage was bone dry after one winter.

That's my experience and there are others on Toronto Mazda 3 forums that have rust issues despite the cars being Krowned annually. Yes, I realize that Mazda 3 probably one of the worst examples, but if the product was as great as some make it out to be, it would not be a problem.

 

[cb450sc]

I took my daughters new to her 2007 Mazda 3 into Krown for the first time in April. When I changed the oil in October it seemed that much of the film on the undercarriage was gone. I took it back to my local Krown last week because she had some rust repair work done over one of the fenders. I was told by the manager that the film was still there but just faded. They gladly sprayed the repaired area and the entire undercarriage free of charge. They washed the car as well. That is good customer service!
I have been taking my 2005 Civic to them every other year and do not have any rust at all.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: cb450sc
I took my daughters new to her 2007 Mazda 3 into Krown for the first time in April. When I changed the oil in October it seemed that much of the film on the undercarriage was gone. I took it back to my local Krown last week because she had some rust repair work done over one of the fenders. I was told by the manager that the film was still there but just faded. They gladly sprayed the repaired area and the entire undercarriage free of charge. They washed the car as well. That is good customer service!
I have been taking my 2005 Civic to them every other year and do not have any rust at all.


I get my vehicle done yearly before the winter and they put a generous portion on (drips for months) and by the spring it appears dry underneath. If you run your finger on the surfaces underneath you can tell a coating of something is there but it doesn't rub off on your fingers. If you scratch it with your nail you can see it come off. It doesn't stay oily like other products from my experiences.

That's not to say this is what happened in your case, but just didn't want there to be confusion on it that it needs to remain greasy type wet like other products might.

I'm actually looking forward to this experiment I'm going to run. If the Corrosion Free is better than I would have my car done at Krown as per usual and then maybe the bottom and wheel wells done with the Corrosion Free stuff on-top as a secondary layer of protection.

 

[yugrus]

Krown did swell door seals in my 2004 Suzuki Aero that I sold four years ago. After five years of annual application. I decided to replace them in 2012. The car was completely rust-free though when I sold it.
I currently use Fluid Film for rust proofing, and lube/condition door seals with the run-off from the air gun. Seals are happy, I'm as well. Heck, I don't even wear gloves anymore during application, my hands feel nice and soft. I offered FF treatment to my wife as after-shower, but no go...
Gotta look into Corrosion Free, it's half the price of FF.

 

[WyrTwister]

As I think someone pointed out , I think fluid film is or contains lanolin ?

Best of luck to you ,

 

[yugrus]

Yes, it is lanolin- based, and so are many cosmetic cremes. Smells sheep.

 

[khittner]

I’ve been a happy Krown customer in Michigan, and I have four rust-free vehicles that get resprayed annually at the Krown shop in Sarnia, ON. The vehicles are 7, 8, 16, and 22 years old. Preserving the structural integrity of the cars with Krown really changes the economics of repairing and continuing to run high-mileage cars. I don’t look at repairs as whether they “cost more than the car is worth”, but by how many/few car payments any repair actually costs to keep the car running as designed. With no corrosion, the only real limits on repairs are whether a new/different design vehicle better meets my transportation need, and whether adequate-quality repair parts remain available from the OEM or aftermarket. Needless to say, I haven’t spent much time shopping for new cars.

 

[StevieC]

So it happens I had to visit Krown's head office for something work related and they are really nice folks. I'm going to see if I can take a picture next time I'm there.

 

[cronk]

We have a Rust Check In Watertown NY that I have been using for the wife's van and I have my truck and beater Cavalier done last year.
I believe they are getting about $150 to do a car and $170 to do a truck or van. They also do a bunch of school bus'.

My wife is friends with the owners, and they seem to take a lot of pride in their business and do a good job.

The economics for my Cavalier, I got a Fluid film kit from ebay with the spray gun, extension wands, body plugs, and a gallon of Fluid film.
I'm going to do my car and truck with that this year. I can get gallons of Fluid Film from NAPA for around $35 so it will be much cheaper for my older vehicles.
The wife is going to keep Rust Checking her van every fall.