Rust Proofing - Now you can get it!

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Originally Posted By: daves87rs
I so need to get that here..will end up on what I drive next


Makes me sad I will have to send our cavalier to the scrapyard....not because of the engine, but rust will finish it off....

I'd almost spray it just to keep it from getting worse....not sure how much it will help though...


My dad does that to slow down the "Cancer" on his beaters. It works. It's a very high Zinc oil and it sacrifices it's electrons versus the metal it is protecting and as such the metal doesn't rust.
 
Originally Posted By: Kurtatron
I have never used Krown personally. How does it compare to FF? I use that stuff, but if Krown is the better option, I may consider using it. I hate working on rusty cars.


It works better IMO than Fluid Film. Fluid film can be rubbed/washed off, this stuff eventally dries and you can no longer see the coating but it's still there working. I drive my vehicles all day long in some of the worst weather imaginable here in the rust belt and I only apply it once a year. 0 rust. I'm happy with it. Plus it's less expensive because of the coverage / creeping factor.
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: Kira
Has it always been a "cash and carry" product or do they install it into your vehicle's nooks and crannies?

Where in NYS do they do that?


I think Eric O. has a youtube video of having Krown applied to one of his vehicles ( truck ? ) Think he lives in upstate New York ?

Best of luck , from the South . Never looked under a used car when shopping , for rust . :)


Here is those videos...






The guys at our shop here don't wear masks because the oil is harmless, I think it's just out of preference... It's really that non-toxic. I would wear a mask just in case down the road they realize it causes something we don't know about today, but just to give you an idea how safe the stuff is.
 
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I should mention I have a friend that has an 08 Accord and a 06 Matrix and he buys a couple of cans for each car, applies to the bottom, wheel wells, and all areas under the hood.

He also sprays in an upward direction a generous amount into the doors at the bottoms of the doors where the drain holes are. His cars look just as good.

So while the full application in the video protects all the areas you can't see like frame welds etc. You could get away with just what he does.

I can take pictures of the underneath of my Journey next time I'm under it for an oil change. It has had 3 applications now and it has 80,000km on it. Looks brand new.
 
Saw a video , guy overhauled the differential on a Toyota ( I think ) . Saved the gear oil / lube .

Apparently he was ;

A - in love with Toyota trucks

B - he lived in the rust belt & bought them cheap because of the rust damage

C - He may have been flipping them when he got them repaired

The truck in the video had severe enough frame rust damage to require him to cut it out and weld back in " patches " of steel . He then took the old gear oil / lube , mixed it with some other petrochemical hydrocarbons ( probably diesel ) .

He then sprayed this stuff liberally , as under coating . All under the truck & in cracks , crannies & hollow spaces .

Thought it was a good way to recycle the old gear oil / lube & maybe help protect ( at least some ) from corrosion .

Best of luck to all all out there , :)
 
Oil rustproofing sure works but it only makes sense for those that keep their cars for 10+ years. Otherwise I would not bother.

Here is how a lot of Mazda 3s look like in my area
uYEg1X6.jpg


Here is mine. You can't argue with these results.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Oil rustproofing sure works but it only makes sense for those that keep their cars for 10+ years. Otherwise I would not bother.


Before 10 years it's protecting from the rust you can't see. (Welds / seams etc.) Then at about 10 years when you can see it, it is too late.

But yeah if you keep for 10 years or less then don't bother.
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As for around the wheel, the shops pay special attention to this area and hit it under the lip with spray and where the bumpers meet the metal panels.
 
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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Oil rustproofing sure works but it only makes sense for those that keep their cars for 10+ years. Otherwise I would not bother.




It's a lot easier to sell that 10+ year old car if it doesn't have rust. OTOH if you plan on junking it then it won't matter.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: Kurtatron
I have never used Krown personally. How does it compare to FF? I use that stuff, but if Krown is the better option, I may consider using it. I hate working on rusty cars.


It works better IMO than Fluid Film. Fluid film can be rubbed/washed off, this stuff eventally dries and you can no longer see the coating but it's still there working. I drive my vehicles all day long in some of the worst weather imaginable here in the rust belt and I only apply it once a year. 0 rust. I'm happy with it. Plus it's less expensive because of the coverage / creeping factor.


That has been my experience as well.
 
I suppose once my FF supply is out, I may give this stuff a try. Heck, if it is a really bad winter, I might get some to compare to my FF. Is it ok to apply when cold? FF is applied best when it isn’t too cold, so it can creep.
 
And what is this stuff made out of? FF is lanolin, so it is pretty non-toxic. Is Krown some type of petroleum?
 
If it is non petroleum, then why does the SDS say this about their product:

"Health studies have shown that many petroleum hydrocarbons pose potential human health risks, which may very from person to person. As a precaution, exposure to liquids, vapours, mists or fumes should be minimized."


I think that a product can be petroleum based while not containing solvents?? Can a chemist explain this?


On another note, some sites suggest that the Industrial Krown product KL73 is exactly the same as the consumer T-40 product. Krown KL73 is available in the U.S. in aerosol and bulk quantities. Interesting.

http://www.skf.com/us/products/vehicle-a...duct/index.html

and

https://www.autoparts2020.com/skf/kl-73-rust-inhibitor-lubricant-skf-ka74004-4

Available at large equipment service centers (semi truck tractors, excavation equip., etc.)
 
Not sure... The little tag that they put in the car after application says that it's non-toxic, non-flammable, environmentally friendly. The guys at the shops I have been to don't wear masks and they work with the stuff all day long and have been there for a long time. (Family runs it)

I think they might just have to have the statement there because of the stupid laws we have on the books. (Think California).

Surely it would be under the "Regulated Components" section if it had real health effects and there is nothing listed.
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Krown is not an 'oil spray' as such. It is a complex mixture of chemicals designed to slow down or inhibit corrosion on vehicles. It is a petroleum-based product, heavily fortified with rust inhibitors. Krown contains no solvents, kerosene, gasoline, no paraffin or wax, no lanolin, no toxic chemicals, nothing of a cancer causing nature, no aggressive chemicals of any kind - making Krown absolutely environmentally friendly. Krown is not controlled under WHMIS. The Federal Government (Canadian Food Inspection Agency) has done testing and has approved Krown for use in food plants where there might be some 'incidental' food contact. The testing involved is fairly aggressive. Krown is as safe a product as can be found in the marketplace for inhibiting corrosion on motor vehicles.


https://www.krown.com/faqs/
 
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Now that there's offical Krown shops in some areas like Buffalo NY, I couldn't see mail-ordering the product and doing it yourself. It's under $100 for the shop to do a "professional" job. I know I've considered it, but have never gone through with it.
 
Hey StevieC,.......edit, I see you beat me to the punch!

I poked around to find an older Krown MSDS because they are more telling. This one, in French, clearly indicates that Krown contains at least 40% petroleum hydrocarbons:
http://www.lubrificationquebec.com/ckfinder/userfiles/files/T-40.pdf

This Krown site: https://www.krownoutaouais.ca/en/product/t40-rust-inhibitorlubricant states: Based on corrosion prevention technologie pioneered with Krown's original product T32, T40 is a next generation petroleum based, solvant free, self-healing rust inhibitor and lubricant.

The KL73 SDS states that it is "food safe", so there is no doubt that it is not a highly toxic product.

Earlier you also stated that Krown does not swell rubber, but the video you posted DOES state that Krown can swell door and tailgate seals.

I think that your Krown buddies are feeding you a bit of Kool Aid, LOL. Don't get me wrong - I get my vehicle Krowned annually. I just think that the petroleum free/swelling free statements might be off. And the argument that they don't wear respirators? Its analogous to my story of my great grand father smoking a pack a day and living an active life through age 95.

Take care.
 
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I have never encountered this and my cars are done annually (Swelling). I have sprayed the rubber seals on the Journey because they have already started drying out and this leaves them with a nice shine and repelling water.
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I trust the guy and have seen the results. He has also done our cars since the 1980's and he's just as healthy as he ever was. I think the effects would have shown by now.
 
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Krown is not all that great of a product, Corrosion Free is much better, as an example. The reason Krown does well is their application process, which is quite good and addresses most trouble spots.

I personally stopped using them on my Mazda as it was washing out of the rust prone areas too quickly. I would not go out of my way to get it if other products are available, such as Corrosion Free, Fluid Film, Carewell, RustCheck etc.
 
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