PS: Don't use more than 50% coolant in the mix, maybe cut back to 40 or lower in AZ.
Running Hotter with A/C
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Our 1985 Olds 88 has a 3 row radiator, but a 2 row is made. Is it possible that the radiator you put in your vehicle when it was replaced was a 2 row when it should have been a 3 row.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: mk378
Does it still have the fan shrouds? Does the fan size match the shrouds? Is the fan blade facing the right way? I don't know if it is possible on that model, but if you flip a fan blade front to back, it will still blow air the same way, but much less efficiently.
Yes to all of the above
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
Cheap and easy first... clean out the radiator exterior with a garden hose. Put a bottle of lubegard cool it in the radiator, clean out the cooling system interior if dirty or neglected etc.
It's all flushed out clean with a new radiator.
Here's the link to another post I made
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...Hot#Post4452665
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Our 1985 Olds 88 has a 3 row radiator, but a 2 row is made. Is it possible that the radiator you put in your vehicle when it was replaced was a 2 row when it should have been a 3 row.
Radiator is stock, old one was 3 years old, standard O'Reillys radiator. Decided to replace it to see what would happen, didn't help. Replaced with a standard Parts Authority radiator through my mechanic's account, which is what any shop out there would use as a replacement radiator. His Jeep has one and my brothers has one, they don't run hot.
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
PS: Don't use more than 50% coolant in the mix, maybe cut back to 40 or lower in AZ.
Antifreeze is at 40% and distilled water is at 60%
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
1) Air is heated up by the AC condenser before it enters the radiator so the radiator is hotter when the AC is running.
2) If the temperature of a comparable vehicle is normally 195 with the AC on and your identical vehicle is 230, you probably have a clogged cooling system. Flushing may clean out the engines cooling system, but usually once a radiator is clogged internally you have to replace the radiator.
You say all the cooling system has been replaced, but how old is the radiator? If it is 10 years old or older it could be that the radiator is clogged up inside.
Radiator is 1 month old
Does it still have the fan shrouds? Does the fan size match the shrouds? Is the fan blade facing the right way? I don't know if it is possible on that model, but if you flip a fan blade front to back, it will still blow air the same way, but much less efficiently.
Yes to all of the above
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
Cheap and easy first... clean out the radiator exterior with a garden hose. Put a bottle of lubegard cool it in the radiator, clean out the cooling system interior if dirty or neglected etc.
It's all flushed out clean with a new radiator.
Here's the link to another post I made
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...Hot#Post4452665
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Our 1985 Olds 88 has a 3 row radiator, but a 2 row is made. Is it possible that the radiator you put in your vehicle when it was replaced was a 2 row when it should have been a 3 row.
Radiator is stock, old one was 3 years old, standard O'Reillys radiator. Decided to replace it to see what would happen, didn't help. Replaced with a standard Parts Authority radiator through my mechanic's account, which is what any shop out there would use as a replacement radiator. His Jeep has one and my brothers has one, they don't run hot.
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
PS: Don't use more than 50% coolant in the mix, maybe cut back to 40 or lower in AZ.
Antifreeze is at 40% and distilled water is at 60%
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
1) Air is heated up by the AC condenser before it enters the radiator so the radiator is hotter when the AC is running.
2) If the temperature of a comparable vehicle is normally 195 with the AC on and your identical vehicle is 230, you probably have a clogged cooling system. Flushing may clean out the engines cooling system, but usually once a radiator is clogged internally you have to replace the radiator.
You say all the cooling system has been replaced, but how old is the radiator? If it is 10 years old or older it could be that the radiator is clogged up inside.
Radiator is 1 month old
Normal. Drive on.
This overheating issue is nothing that can't be solved with a little bit of money.
For a time after replacing the fan clutch in my BMW, I noticed the using the A/C would (after a period of idling) cause the electric auxiliary pusher fan to step up to its "High" speed (it runs on "low" with the A/C on). Curiously, the fan clutch did not seem to lock in audibly and roar, as it does at startup.
Switching off the A/C, and allowing the auxiliary fan to switch off... The fan clutch would lock up shortly afterwards, allowing the fan to roar with the engine revved. At no time did the electric fans "Low" speed engage to supplement cooling from the mechanical fan.
If the A/C were switched on again, the fan clutch would gradually unlock, and the electrical auxiliary fan would be switched to high speed once more.
This behaviour continued for several months, then the following summer, did not occur at all. The fan clutch, by then, began locking up when the vehicle was stationary with the A/C running. I cannot explain why this occurred, aside from a new part requiring a degree of "breaking in." In any case it happened, and was a repeatable exercise at the time.
So my hypothesis would be that perhaps your engine-driven fan misbehaves to a certain extent (i.e. it has begun to fail), and A/C usage exaggerates it. Are the heightened temperatures noted in all driving conditions, or only at idle?
When at speed, mechanical or electrical fans really aren't as necessary - even on the hottest days (I'm talking well over 40ºC / 104ºF), the mechanical fan on my car unlocks, and the electric auxiliary fan will not unless the A/C is in use. This indicates that even in extreme conditions, forced airflow from high-speed driving will keep the vehicle comfortably cool if everything else is working as it should.
Switching off the A/C, and allowing the auxiliary fan to switch off... The fan clutch would lock up shortly afterwards, allowing the fan to roar with the engine revved. At no time did the electric fans "Low" speed engage to supplement cooling from the mechanical fan.
If the A/C were switched on again, the fan clutch would gradually unlock, and the electrical auxiliary fan would be switched to high speed once more.
This behaviour continued for several months, then the following summer, did not occur at all. The fan clutch, by then, began locking up when the vehicle was stationary with the A/C running. I cannot explain why this occurred, aside from a new part requiring a degree of "breaking in." In any case it happened, and was a repeatable exercise at the time.
So my hypothesis would be that perhaps your engine-driven fan misbehaves to a certain extent (i.e. it has begun to fail), and A/C usage exaggerates it. Are the heightened temperatures noted in all driving conditions, or only at idle?
When at speed, mechanical or electrical fans really aren't as necessary - even on the hottest days (I'm talking well over 40ºC / 104ºF), the mechanical fan on my car unlocks, and the electric auxiliary fan will not unless the A/C is in use. This indicates that even in extreme conditions, forced airflow from high-speed driving will keep the vehicle comfortably cool if everything else is working as it should.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/first-review-ff-dynamics-99762/
If the polarity of the fan motor is reversed , it may reverse rotation of the fan blade .
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
Best wishes ,
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/first-review-ff-dynamics-99762/
If the polarity of the fan motor is reversed , it may reverse rotation of the fan blade .
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
Best wishes ,
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
No that's just a Google image. I'm trying to get Nick's mind wrapped around the idea of going all electric fans.
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
No that's just a Google image. I'm trying to get Nick's mind wrapped around the idea of going all electric fans.
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/first-review-ff-dynamics-99762/
If the polarity of the fan motor is reversed , it may reverse rotation of the fan blade .
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
Best wishes ,
I want to say a Ford Taurus fan is an almost direct fit. Nick, if everything is new like you said, this may be the next step.
When you say everything, you mean water pump and fan clutch too? I remember the sludge photos from a previous post so I wonder about the WP's condition.
FWIW, the OE radiator is 2 rows. How many does your current radiator have?
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/first-review-ff-dynamics-99762/
If the polarity of the fan motor is reversed , it may reverse rotation of the fan blade .
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
Best wishes ,
I want to say a Ford Taurus fan is an almost direct fit. Nick, if everything is new like you said, this may be the next step.
When you say everything, you mean water pump and fan clutch too? I remember the sludge photos from a previous post so I wonder about the WP's condition.
FWIW, the OE radiator is 2 rows. How many does your current radiator have?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/first-review-ff-dynamics-99762/
If the polarity of the fan motor is reversed , it may reverse rotation of the fan blade .
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
Best wishes ,
I want to say a Ford Taurus fan is an almost direct fit. Nick, if everything is new like you said, this may be the next step.
When you say everything, you mean water pump and fan clutch too? I remember the sludge photos from a previous post so I wonder about the WP's condition.
FWIW, the OE radiator is 2 rows. How many does your current radiator have?
The sludge was in the overflow bottle. Water pump I replaced last year and the fan clutch is brand new as of yesterday. I put in a 272310 fan clutch, which is for the 4 cylinder Cherokee. They only had a mechanical fan, it REALLY spoils up, no concerns with air flow with it. This thing is like an airplane.
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/first-review-ff-dynamics-99762/
If the polarity of the fan motor is reversed , it may reverse rotation of the fan blade .
Are the 3 fans original to the vehicle ? What controls the switching of the fans ?
Best wishes ,
I want to say a Ford Taurus fan is an almost direct fit. Nick, if everything is new like you said, this may be the next step.
When you say everything, you mean water pump and fan clutch too? I remember the sludge photos from a previous post so I wonder about the WP's condition.
FWIW, the OE radiator is 2 rows. How many does your current radiator have?
The sludge was in the overflow bottle. Water pump I replaced last year and the fan clutch is brand new as of yesterday. I put in a 272310 fan clutch, which is for the 4 cylinder Cherokee. They only had a mechanical fan, it REALLY spoils up, no concerns with air flow with it. This thing is like an airplane.
HG issue? Checked compression? What temp thermostat are you running?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: Brons2
HG issue? Checked compression? What temp thermostat are you running?
I did a combustion leak down test, it passed. Compression was in spec, thermostat was a brand new OEM from the dealer one, then I swapped for a high flow Murray. No change in temperatures.
HG issue? Checked compression? What temp thermostat are you running?
I did a combustion leak down test, it passed. Compression was in spec, thermostat was a brand new OEM from the dealer one, then I swapped for a high flow Murray. No change in temperatures.
Nothing changed because there is nothing wrong.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
Nothing changed because there is nothing wrong.
230 degrees isn't too hot?
Nothing changed because there is nothing wrong.
230 degrees isn't too hot?
With the 4.0 they (meaning jeep) wanted it running hot to address emissions. I had a TJ a few years back and went thru all the steps you did with basically a new cooling system. I believe there is a high flow thermostat housing you can get and also a different water pump that will help. I drilled a 3/16 weep hole in the thermostat as well.
The thing that worked best for me was venting the hood. There was one of the forum members on the jeep site that had a fairly complete study of the where the best placement would be on the hood. Enjoy the XJ, you have a good year model!
The thing that worked best for me was venting the hood. There was one of the forum members on the jeep site that had a fairly complete study of the where the best placement would be on the hood. Enjoy the XJ, you have a good year model!
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
Nothing changed because there is nothing wrong.
230 degrees isn't too hot?
No it's not.
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
Nothing changed because there is nothing wrong.
230 degrees isn't too hot?
No it's not.
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
No it's not.
What's considered too hot ? I'd be panicking if my Buick's water temp was 230F.
No it's not.
What's considered too hot ? I'd be panicking if my Buick's water temp was 230F.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Normal. Drive on.
This. All vehicles run hotter with the A/C on full. You are removing the heat from the cabin and placing it directly in front of the rad.
Normal. Drive on.
This. All vehicles run hotter with the A/C on full. You are removing the heat from the cabin and placing it directly in front of the rad.
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