you got me curious now
you might want to PM Trav
you might want to PM Trav
I hit a large landscaping brick a few months later bad wheel bearing. I did both just because milage was at 205k. I have a spare nowNever heard of any shop preemptively replacing a wheel bearing on the opposite side of the car. Usually hitting a large pothole etc is what starts a wheel bearing going bad. Unlikely to affect the opposite side. In 30 years, have never had a car come back a short time later with the other side noisy, unless it was noisy when the first one was done and the tech did not road test after the first bearing was replaced. Sometimes a really loud bearing can mask the noise from the second worn bearing.
Good suggestion, but the backing plate is sandwiched between the knuckle and the hub that’s still stuck.
I’m honestly hoping that a night soaking in PB Blaster will be the difference. I’ll be back from work at around 1600 to have at it again tomorrow.
I feel bad making my wife and kids get up just to drop me off at work, but thems be the breaks... I’d feel worse if I’d actually botched the job.
Good suggestion, but the backing plate is sandwiched between the knuckle and the hub that’s still stuck.
I’m honestly hoping that a night soaking in PB Blaster will be the difference. I’ll be back from work at around 1600 to have at it again tomorrow.
I feel bad making my wife and kids get up just to drop me off at work, but thems be the breaks... I’d feel worse if I’d actually botched the job.
What I usually do when the hub is recessed like this one into the plate from behind is remove the axle if possible and put 4 long hardened bolts into the hub and smack them alternately from behind, if its solid with rust as is usual, you heat it with a smoke wrench not a mapp or propane torch (you may as well use a bic butane lighter really). Are the hub threads all buggered?
You may end up sacrificing the backing plate at this point, I don't know if you can get the cv axle out. You can drive a couple of wedges in there in the form of a couple cold chisels between the plate and hub. This is something I wish I could see.
How hard is it to remove the entire knuckle and take it to a machine shop to press it out? I never worked on anything subaru, but looking at the pics, at this point , is that an option?
Up here they get pretty rotten but that would be ideal. I would just hate to see him get into a even bigger fiasco than he is in now, without a real smoke wrench things can go sideways real quick when it comes to rotten parts.
I would only replace the defective unit. I had one go bad on my Accord two years ago and the other side is still doing fine.
when the hub is still attached, we’d also use that as a place to hit. Hit down on it, sideways on it, up on it. All to break that hub away from the knuckle. Do you have enough of that snout of the bearing assembly to hit on? Maybe that’s why we didn’t use slide hammers, I’m not sure. It’s been years since I was in the dealership but I can’t remember using a slide hammer on this job.
Unfortunately that tool isn't doing this sort of work with much effectiveness, it just doesn't have enough hitting power.I bought a Ridgid battery-powered hammer. I beat the heck out of it from both sides with no real movement.
If I could get the CV shaft out of there easily, I'd be able to hit the recessed part of the hub from the inside - I bet that would make the difference!