Rental Bikes - My Introduction To Internally-Geared Hubs

[Number_35]

We're in Fort Collins Colorado for a few days, and have rented bikes.

They are rugged beasts with heavy step-through frames, front-hub generators, and 5-speed rear hubs. They seem to be set up for maximum durability.

This is my first time riding a bike with an internally-geared rear hub. There are some things I really like about it, the biggest being the ability to downshift after coming to a sudden stop while in a higher gear.

I would like some lower gears for the hills, but so far we've been OK.

Lots of really good trails here. We've had really good rides the last two days, but it looks like we'll get rained out tomorrow.

 

[MRC01]

I love internally geared hubs. I think they should be 10 times more popular than they are. Sure they're slightly less efficient but for 99% of people riding bikes that doesn't matter.

AFAIK, the Rohloff Speed hub is the epitome of the internally geared hub: https://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/
Yeah, the hub alone costs more than most entire bicycles. I've ridden the Shimano Nexus and thought they were fine.

 

[supton]

I have a couple of Sturmey Archer AW hubs, but those old English 3 speeds are a bit long in tooth now. But wicked cool and long lived. Rather like the idea of a simple hub that easily taken apart and easily oiled.

Have a 5 speed that I have never gotten around to getting going again. Want to say its a 3 speed but it can switch between wide and narrow ratio?

Bit less less work than my 3x9’s for sure, and a cool old beast. But around here the 3 speed was really a four speed: downhill, flat ground, not quite low enough, and walking.

The IG hubs have more loss but less of a pain than derailleur setups. But IMO their achilles heel is changing flats. Not hard but more tools.

 

[vavavroom]

For a non-competitive rider the little bit of extra drag and extra weight of an IGH doesn't matter. A dirty chain and chainrings also drag. Durability is sufficient for light trail riding. Removing and installing the wheel isn't that much more laborious. The cable linkage is easily disconnected and reconnected and shifter adjustment via index marks takes a minute. By the way, Rohloff died last month at age 73.

 

[Number_35]

For a non-competitive rider the little bit of extra drag and extra weight of an IGH doesn't matter. A dirty chain and chainrings also drag. Durability is sufficient for light trail riding. Removing and installing the wheel isn't that much more laborious. The cable linkage is easily disconnected and reconnected and shifter adjustment via index marks takes a minute. By the way, Rohloff died last month at age 73.

I've long wanted a Rohloff hub, preferably the 14-speed, but have heard they run about C$100/gear.

 

[vavavroom]

 

[georgemiller]

I have a couple of Sturmey Archer AW hubs, but those old English 3 speeds are a bit long in tooth now. But wicked cool and long lived. Rather like the idea of a simple hub that easily taken apart and easily oiled.

Have a 5 speed that I have never gotten around to getting going again. Want to say its a 3 speed but it can switch between wide and narrow ratio?

Bit less less work than my 3x9’s for sure, and a cool old beast. But around here the 3 speed was really a four speed: downhill, flat ground, not quite low enough, and walking.

The IG hubs have more loss but less of a pain than derailleur setups. But IMO their achilles heel is changing flats. Not hard but more tools.

Nothing like the simplicity of a three speed bike.

 

[vavavroom]

Nothing like the simplicity of a three speed bike.

A unicycle?

 

[barryh]

Following through on one of the links above I was surprised to read that some of the modern gear hubs are filled with grease rather than thin oil, making them less efficient than the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs I was riding 60 years ago. Not exactly progress then.

 

[MRC01]

Following through on one of the links above I was surprised to read that some of the modern gear hubs are filled with grease rather than thin oil, making them less efficient than the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs I was riding 60 years ago. Not exactly progress then.

If so, the purpose must be for maintenance. They assume owners won't service it, so they apply grease which will last longer than oil. My preference for the internally geared hubs I've owned, is to use a lightweight grease, like NLGI #0 or #1 instead of #2. With a tackifier agent to help keep it in place and reduce fling-off.

 

[vavavroom]

If so, the purpose must be for maintenance. They assume owners won't service it, so they apply grease which will last longer than oil. My preference for the internally geared hubs I've owned, is to use a lightweight grease, like NLGI #0 or #1 instead of #2. With a tackifier agent to help keep it in place and reduce fling-off.

What ratio of tackifier to grease works for you?

 

[MRC01]

I use a grease with the tackifier agent already built in, Schaeffer's 221, NLGI #1 in this application.
PS: or NLGI #2 with a few drops of extra oil to reduce the viscosity. Chainsaw bar & chain oil works nicely and also has a tackifier agent that helps keep it in place.

 

[vavavroom]

I use a grease with the tackifier agent already built in, Schaeffer's 221, NLGI #1 in this application.
PS: or NLGI #2 with a few drops of extra oil to reduce the viscosity. Chainsaw bar & chain oil works nicely and also has a tackifier agent that helps keep it in place.

I see. I was going to start mixing.

 

[MRC01]

Mix oil with grease, or mix a tackifier with the grease or oil?
I've never done the latter, only having used oil or greases that already have it, so I'm curious what is a good tackifier.

 

[vavavroom]

I sauntered into the lab and asked a coat for tackifier. Maybe I'll try it out.

 

[MRC01]

As long as it's miscible with oil... you could mix in a sample container, let it sit, see if it stays mixed or separates.
Intuitively, I'd assume a little dab will do 'ya - like 1:20 tackifier to oil/grease.

 

[CR94]

Following through on one of the links above I was surprised to read that some of the modern gear hubs are filled with grease rather than thin oil, making them less efficient than the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs I was riding 60 years ago. Not exactly progress then.

Classic Sturmey-Archer 3-speeds (which I have on my oldest bike) are very efficient in the middle ratio, because no power is transmitted through the gears. It's direct drive, with the sprocket rotating at the same speed as the hub body. The corresponding drawback of that ratio is that the gears, being under no load, can rattle on bumps.

I use 80W-90 gear oil.

 

[AuthorEditor]

Many moons ago I did a lot of bike touring on 10-speeds, but I noted that 90% of the day was spent in just a few gears. Steep terrain is where the extra gears are needed the most. For around town and short jaunts a 3 or 5-speed is great! I have some old 3-speed bikes that still work perfectly after decades of use.

 

[AuthorEditor]

"I use 80W-90 gear oil."

Sturmey Archer recommends a 20W motor oil. I've used synthetic 5W-30 motor oil successfully.

 

[MRC01]

I built a Sturmey Archer 2-speed kickback hub into one of my bikes. I think their recommended oil is too thin and will require frequent servicing. I service this hub as mentioned above. I've put a few thousand miles on it, the internals don't show corrosion or excessive wear, and it's holding up nicely...

A 3-speed works fine because the steps between the gears are bigger than a derailleur bike, so the overall ratio is wide enough for most riding.