Redline 10W30, 6.5K miles, 02 Jeep Wrangler 4.0

[wrangler]

9 months and 6.5K miles. Total sump 8 qts. I use an amsoil bypass filter as well. TBN is way down as well.

SILICON was twice as high as the last few samples which probably caused the IRON to be twice as high as the last few samples...

ALUMINUM 3
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 28
COPPER 6
LEAD 0
TIN 4
MOLYBDENUM 709
NICKEL 1
MANGANESE 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 2
BORON 25
SILICON 20
SODIUM 23
CALCIUM 2777
MAGNESIUM 12
PHOSPHORUS 1071
ZINC 1260
BARIUM 1

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 62.8
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 11.01
Flashpoint in °F 395
Fuel % Antifreeze % 0
Water % 0
Insolubles % 0.3
TBN 1.4

 

[Steve S]

what kind of air filter do you run?

 

[pickled]

Ouch! Definitely check your air filter, housing and your PCV system hoses. I'm surprised that RL TBN depleted that quickly was this your first run of it?

 

[Gary Allan]

How is this thing driven. It's not much over 9 months. Is this idle for longer bouts?

 

[wrangler]

i used a WIX air filter. have been using it for a while now. I have also been using Redline for a while. This was my 3rd run and about 16K miles total...

My last run with RL was only 4.1K miles and the TBN was 2.5 (at the time i had even used lube control). So TBN wise it doesn't do great. I had better success with Amsoil. BUT the lead count is ZERO with RL and it was much higher with Amsoil. It was a concern because with the bypass it takes 3 to 4 seconds for the oil pressure to build up during start-ups... scary [censored]. but probably because RL has such a high "High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity" number its harder to squeeze out of the bearings?

Also it used to burn some oil with Amsoil it burns nothing with RL. I like RL a lot better. its just not as good for extended runs but i don't really care if it performs better with this engine.

 

[wrangler]

i kinda drive it on the hard side. it sees a reasonable amount of WOTs and the occasional redlines.... but i maintain it well and i don't think running it hard once in a while is a bad thing...

 

[Gary Allan]

My thought was that if you leave it sitting for a decent amount of time, you may just be seeing the effects of moisture entering into whatever cylinder is open when you shut it off.

Track your real fuel economy. You may be doing way more mileage than the odometer is reading. Tee-Dub's formula might help here.

Your long wait for oil pressure is the hoses emptying from the dual mount. The EaBP or Be filter has no ADBV ..and if you have it mounted on the right front fender, they can both drain forward into the engine. So you're sorta starting off near empty at every start up after it's been sitting for a while.

Get some check valves and install them at the block adapter. If you want to get creative, and run tight on room to fit the check valves, you can get a right angle mount adapter from the dealer parts counter for about $40.

 

[Steve S]

Check for air filter real I RTV my filters to seal the mounting surfaces check for air leake and look at the si in virgin Redline oil . Gary has hit the nail on the head !!!

 

[wrangler]

Gary, I have known about the hoses draining back in the engine for while now. To confirm, I actually disconnected the hoses after 20 min from shutting down and they were completely dry. Not even a drop of oil.

The problem is that i've been a little lazy/hesitant to adding ADBVs because its a reaaaaalllly tight fit as it is. I really don't think i can squeeze in an ADBV. I already have a 90degree elbow i don't want to add anymore... at some point it should have a noticeable affect on the oil pressure.

BUT I am really surprised Amsoil doesn't include them in the bypass kit or integrate them inside the bypass unit (i use the bypas&FF unit- forgot the name).

The pre-luber thingy they have seems like a good idea but I think it over priced and it doesn't hold enough oil...

 

[wrangler]

i'll try the RTV and see what happens. sounds like a good idea.

 

[pickled]

Just one question, and I don't mean it as offensive, but what is the bypass doing for you in this application? The 4.0 already holds 6 quarts of oil and if you run a synteq media filter (EAO) you are getting filtration levels
As far as your air filter goes RTV is one answer for the air box, but most of the leaks that I've ran into are at fittings or vacuum connections. Get a can of carb cleaner out and check your lines and throttle body. FWIW the amsoil EAA air filters are really good, but for my jeep I put the AEM brute force cold air intake on and it was well worth the money. The filter is non-oiled and the intake tubing is bullet proof. Low end torque is also much improved...by far the best "bolt-on" mod a 4.0L jeep owner can make.

 

[TeeDub]

I would look for an air leak directly into the crankcase, given this wear metal profile. Using the carb cleaner to isolate the leak is an excellent suggestion. A silicon level this high - even with a 2 um absolute, by-pass filter installed - is cause for concern.

Redline doesn't hold up well under short trip, cold weather conditions.

 

[wrangler]

pickled, i don't think the bypass is really buying me much. i bought it a few years back without really thinking it through. The installation was a bit of a PITA because of space restrictions and i even had to make a custom bracket... I think i left it on all this time just because its there and it was a bit of a PITA to install. So i guess 'spite and anger' is the answer to your question

 

[pickled]

That's awesome...I've done the same thing plenty of times in my wrenching life. Once a part makes your knuckles bleed and enhances your vulgar vernacular it's going to stay put!! Spite and anger are unique motivations that should be left unquestioned by us masses

.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
Gary, I have known about the hoses draining back in the engine for while now. To confirm, I actually disconnected the hoses after 20 min from shutting down and they were completely dry. Not even a drop of oil.

The problem is that i've been a little lazy/hesitant to adding ADBVs because its a reaaaaalllly tight fit as it is. I really don't think i can squeeze in an ADBV. I already have a 90degree elbow i don't want to add anymore... at some point it should have a noticeable affect on the oil pressure.


I think if you got a right angle mount (like on the Cherokees) you could just point it up. It should be will within the size of a PH16 filter (in how it "intrudes") ..then it's not so bad on the vertical plane.

I took mine out to replace the stock air box (was using a Rock-it tube from Turbo City). If I go back to it, I'll probably rig it to the back near the cowl and use it as a Dual Guard in a true bypass setup.

 

[Johnny]

Originally Posted By: TeeDub
Redline doesn't hold up well under short trip, cold weather conditions.


First time I've heard that. What do you contribute that to?

 

[buster]

TeeDub knows a lot more than I do but I would say it's due to the POE base oil. Doesn't handle moisture that well but some have said there are additives to get around that. Redline formulates for extreme high temperatures and heavy load. It's really overkill ever more so than other synthetics for cars that don't really need a synthetic.