Redline 0W20 vs Motul Specific 913D 5W30

[Al79]

Hi all!

The car is a Volvo V40 with 80.000 km and the engine is the 1.6 TGDI 180 cv. Right now the car is using Motul Specific 913D and I have no complaints really. Apart from the usual top ups, the car is running fine.

But that time of the year has arrived again and I need to change the oil. I have 5 litre of Redline 0W20 lying around and I was thinking to use it in the Volvo...

Here are the specs I vcould fine of each oil to compare. Question is, Can I use the Redline, or will I buy the Motul again? Any other suggestions are welcome! Thank you

Redline 0W20

Motul Specific 913D

 

[Revving2Redline]

I wouldn't do it. Stay with what works or designed for. I can take that Redline 0w20 off your hands lol.

 

[Kamele0N]

I would use neither of oils above....

Its TGDi engine...so stay away from thin oils because that type of engine diluite oil more (with a unburnt gasoline)...

Use 5w40 oils (C3 instead of A3/B4 if you are worried for your catalyst converter)....but its important that HTHS is 3.5 MIN....

Donate that oily water to those "over the pond"...

 

[Kamele0N]

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5026749/1

 

[Al79]

Originally Posted by Kamele0N
I would use neither of oils above....

Its TGDi engine...so stay away from thin oils because that type of engine diluite oil more (with a unburnt gasoline)...

Use 5w40 oils (C3 instead of A3/B4 if you are worried for your catalyst converter)....but its important that HTHS is 3.5 MIN....

Donate that oily water to those "over the pond"...

Interesting.....couple of things,

Engine was build for a5/b5 or at least that's what the manual say so I am not sure going back to a A3/B4 will be the best thing to do...

On the other hand that article suggests to use oils with higher viscosity index. The reason is that fuel dilution will decrease viscosity over the time and make the oil loose properties quicker. In that scenario, Redline wins 172 vs 164

You suggest an HTHS of 3.5 min, and I that case the Motul is closer to that figure 3.1 vs 2.9...I understand the benefits of going for a higher HTHS, but is that all that matters? A thinner oil will also get faster to the top of the engine and protect in cold conditions.

Still confused....

 

[kschachn]

How is the engine "built" for A5/B5 exactly, and what would be the specific problem with an A3/B4 oil?

And regarding cold conditions, isn't that a function of the W rating of the oil? There are plenty of 0W A3/B4 oils available if that's your concern.

 

[Al79]

Originally Posted by kschachn
How is the engine "built" for A5/B5 exactly, and what would be the specific problem with an A3/B4 oil?

And regarding cold conditions, isn't that a function of the W rating of the oil? There are plenty of 0W A3/B4 oils available if that's your concern.


Thanks for the reply. So, are you suggesting that despite the manual (and engineers) saying A5/B5 oil I use a A3/B4 oil?

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Al79
Thanks for the reply. So, are you suggesting that despite the manual (and engineers) saying A5/B5 oil I use a A3/B4 oil?
An engine being built for A5/B5 means there is enough bearing surface to spread the internal engine loads out enough to allow the use of A5/B5 lower viscosity oils, like the 0w20 Redline.

You can use A3/B4 if you want to, as it will work, since it is thicker than A5/B5 hot. ...It is possible to go to a higher viscosity (A3/B4), yet one never wants to go to a lower viscosity than what the Owner's Manual recommends, just to minimize engine wear.

Use the Redline 0w20. It's HTHS 2.9 is A5/B5-sufficient here. If you suspect fuel dilution, which thins out oil excessively, then it is probably better to use an HTHS 3.1 or up to about HTHS 3.5 oil in that engine.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted by Al79
Thanks for the reply. So, are you suggesting that despite the manual (and engineers) saying A5/B5 oil I use a A3/B4 oil?

Following the manual, particularly when under warranty, is always a good idea. However, what I think what's being said is that engines aren't as viscosity sensitive as we like to believe. Going up to an oil with HTHS of 3.5 or higher will be harmless. I'd be more concerning myself about additive levels, wondering whether A3/B4 or C3 would be a better choice.

If it were me, and it were a vehicle out of warranty, I'd consider a 5w-30 E6 lubricant. That way, you get an additive package that isn't very far off of an A5/B5 variant while having higher HTHS, and likely higher TBN.

There's nothing terribly wrong with that specific choice of Red Line in that application, but for cost purposes, it woudn't be my first choice. There will be no shortage of additives, either, if one has concern there in either direction.