Ravenol T-WS syn vs Toyota WS ATF

Status
Not open for further replies.
Been running Maxlife in a DexIII spec'ed 2002 Tundra V8 for over 120K miles; no issues.

Frankly, the unscientific consensus I get from BITOG is most use WS for warranty adherence and little else.
 
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
So what has the MaxLife looked like upon drain and fill? WS gets close to black quick. Also, how is the shift feel between the two? In some ways I'm starting to think maybe WS isn't so special after all. Regardless, I don't think it should be brown/black in 20,000 miles like I've seen. Some say a recent reformulation uses a different red dye🤔



It's looked very good. Very close to new after 20-30k miles.

Shifts are fine. It's shifted exactly the same since the day I bought it new.
 
It looks like only positive results from Toyota owners switching to MaxLife ATF where WS is specified. $17 a gallon vs $48 for the Ravenol T-WS. I appreciate your input!
 
I did the last drain and fill on my Tacoma (A750F) with Maxlife. It's been 2 years and 6-7k, no issues. I am getting ready to do another drain and fill with Maxlife. Most of your Dex VI / Mercon LV ATFs are "suitable for" or "recommended for" Toyota WS.
 
Like I said before I called the Castrol company directly. Their ATF is certified by Aisin who made the Toyota transmission. I took a photo of quart bottle, also says certified.

eLU9eU


732EF140-D000-41A4-8660-002B5C18DA85.webp
 
I'm not the one who mentioned it not being certified. So I was reading the product data info for the Castrol import transmax non synthetic ATF. Guess the viscosity @100c is 5.9 for the Transmax full synthetic. It listed a flashpoint of 350 Fahrenheit. Seems low for an ATF
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
It looks like only positive results from Toyota owners switching to MaxLife ATF where WS is specified. $17 a gallon vs $48 for the Ravenol T-WS. I appreciate your input!


I've used Maxlife (and castrol + havolines syn ATF a little as well) in many Toyotas and Lexus trans without issue. Well one issue, it held up much better than the factory WS stuff.

I've also use it in Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, Infiniti, Ford, GM, Honda, Acura, Mercedes, etc... with no issues at all. There are some trans that do take a special fluid so watch out for those, like ATF+4 trans. But most other common used/made auto trans Maxlife, and similar fluids, work fine.
 
Don't want to turn this into a Maxlife ATF thread, but I'm another Toyota owner who uses Maxlife.
2011 Rav4, 2007 4Runner, 2003 Matrix, 2004 Corolla, 2012 Camry + all the other Toyota's friends and family bring over for servicing.

All have gotten spill and fills with Maxlife at 30-45k intervals. No problems.

It's easy to find, and cheap from Wally World.
 
Originally Posted by Jimzz
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
It looks like only positive results from Toyota owners switching to MaxLife ATF where WS is specified. $17 a gallon vs $48 for the Ravenol T-WS. I appreciate your input!


I've used Maxlife (and castrol + havolines syn ATF a little as well) in many Toyotas and Lexus trans without issue. Well one issue, it held up much better than the factory WS stuff.

I've also use it in Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, Infiniti, Ford, GM, Honda, Acura, Mercedes, etc... with no issues at all. There are some trans that do take a special fluid so watch out for those, like ATF+4 trans. But most other common used/made auto trans Maxlife, and similar fluids, work fine.


I've used non Mopar ATF+4 both licensed and unlicensed for years. There is nothing special about ATF+4, just Chrysler being really picky that it has a Grp-III base-stock of a specific variety and a certain level of friction modifiers. I have used the Amsoil Signature Series multi-vehicle formula in my Journey and did so for 100,000km (60K miles) before it was in an accident and in my opinion it shifted better with the Amsoil than the ATF+4 from Mopar it came with. It also remained cherry red unlike the Mopar stuff which darkens.

OEM Fluid is typically built based on reasonable performance to a certain cost that saves the OE money. Other fluids makers that need to keep their reputation intact do a better job because they are passing those costs onto the consumer so that is why we end up with superb fluids like Amsoil, Maxlife, Castrol.

IMO with Toyota WS the fluid although it darkens quickly it doesn't mean that it's a bad fluid. There is a poster on here that did a UOA with many miles on his factory fill of WS fluid and the transmission held up just fine so changing it with WS fluid regularly would only make that even better because nothing beats clean fluid.

Now IMO and based on my own experiences in the real world some of the others like Amsoil, Maxlife, Castrol offer better shift quality and reduced operating temperatures than OEM fluids because of better additives and basestocks, as well as longer change intervals so there is a benefit there, but in terms of longevity clean fluid regardless of make will make the transmission last more than you could ever want because most people neglect the transmissions and OEMS typically build them to last on the factory fill for at least the warranty period etc. so it's a non-issue.

The Ford fluid turns dark in short order but the fluid is just fine. It's the dye they are using that changes quickly.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by Jimzz
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
It looks like only positive results from Toyota owners switching to MaxLife ATF where WS is specified. $17 a gallon vs $48 for the Ravenol T-WS. I appreciate your input!


I've used Maxlife (and castrol + havolines syn ATF a little as well) in many Toyotas and Lexus trans without issue. Well one issue, it held up much better than the factory WS stuff.

I've also use it in Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, Infiniti, Ford, GM, Honda, Acura, Mercedes, etc... with no issues at all. There are some trans that do take a special fluid so watch out for those, like ATF+4 trans. But most other common used/made auto trans Maxlife, and similar fluids, work fine.


I've used non Mopar ATF+4 both licensed and unlicensed for years. There is nothing special about ATF+4, just Chrysler being really picky that it has a Grp-III base-stock of a specific variety and a certain level of friction modifiers. I have used the Amsoil Signature Series multi-vehicle formula in my Journey and did so for 100,000km (60K miles) before it was in an accident and in my opinion it shifted better with the Amsoil than the ATF+4 from Mopar it came with. It also remained cherry red unlike the Mopar stuff which darkens.



I believe there is an additive that is only found in ATF+4 if I remember correct. I know part of the ATF+3 to 4 was the base stocks but the additive used in the 3 was also carried over to the 4 spec as well.
I am sure there are trans that do not require that additive. But for those that call for ATF+4 I try to stick to that to be safe. And I say that as someone that uses a lot of Maxlife and other general synthetic ATFs.
 
No worries there... Always good to stick with the OEM. Just saying that there are others out there providing quality ATF+4 fluids capable of the task whether they are officially licensed is all. I wouldn't use a standard fits all fluid that has an magic bottle of stuff added to it to make it into the right fluid which is the case at some oil change shops, however these mutli-vehicle formulas like Amsoil, Maxlife, Castrol etc. that can meet / exceed OEM specifications because the fluid and it's additives are properly blended and capable of meeting more than one requirement at the same time is perfectly fine. You will also find that these fluids will specify such things as "NOT FOR CVT" or "NOT FOR LOW VISCOSITY REQUIREMENTS" etc. whereas these magic fluids at the bulk shops try to re-engineer the fluid with the magic bottle of additive instead of being pre-blended and tested and this can be really dangerous for transmissions that require specific differences than the general population of transmissions that might get by just fine on this more economy fluid.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by StevieC
[
The Ford fluid turns dark in short order but the fluid is just fine. It's the dye they are using that changes quickly.


With our 2017 Explorer with the 6F35 transmisson using the Mercon LV I was quite surprised how black the factory fill ATF was at 12,000 miles when I did a drain and fill. 10,000 miles later I did another d&f with the Mercon LV and it was very dark grey this time. I plan to do another d&f late Nov, should be ~12,000 miles since the last d&f. I'll see what it looks like then. But most likely I'll go to 15-20,000 mile d&f after that, what ever works conveniently for me to change it myself. It's a car transmission in an mid size SUV so the extra care will hopefully pay off for transmission longevity. We keep our vehicles till the body/frames fall apart. Besides it's super easy to a d&f on this vehicle and it costs $20 for 4 quarts exchanged even using Motorcraft Mercon LV, an oil change costs more.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted by Whimsey
Originally Posted by StevieC
[
The Ford fluid turns dark in short order but the fluid is just fine. It's the dye they are using that changes quickly.


With our 2017 Explorer with the 6F35 transmisson using the Mercon LV I was quite surprised how black the factory fill ATF was at 12,000 miles when I did a drain and fill. 10,000 miles later I did another d&f with the Mercon LV and it was very dark grey this time. I plan to do another d&f late Nov, should be ~12,000 miles since the last d&f. I'll see what it looks like then. But most likely I'll go to 15-20,000 mile d&f after that, what ever works conveniently for me to change it myself. It's a car transmission in an mid size SUV so the extra care will hopefully pay off for transmission longevity. We keep our vehicles till the body/frames fall apart. Besides it's super easy to a d&f on this vehicle and it costs $20 for 4 quarts exchanged even using Motorcraft Mercon LV, an oil change costs more.

Whimsey


The first time was most likely break-in wear of the clutches combined with the dye changing the colour and that is why the second time it wasn't as dark. I would change it again when you intend to but send off for a lab analysis and see if the fluid is truly breaking down and there is a high amount of metal and insolubles in the sample which would be a good indicator of increased wear. If not then it's most likely just the dye and not a fault of the fluid. Just a thought because that is a really low OCI for any trans fluid especially considering most don't even do it at all and the trans last a decent amount of time.
 
Last edited:
So from what I gather, I'd likely be a fool to pay $48 for 4 quarts of Ravenol T-WS when MaxLife seems to have more than proven itself in place of regular WS? I would likely drain and fill after initial cooler line flush every 15,000 as I live in the city. Really appreciate all of the replies and thoughtsðŸ‘ðŸ»
 
MaxLife is about $18 for a gallon container; that's a great price.
I have used it for years; love the stuff.
I am switching to Idemitsu ($8 quart) on occasion, based on the results of an Acura service.

I believe you will be happy either way.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom