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Put 5W-20 in 5W-30 Mower
- Thread starter SupremePossum
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Duplicate post.
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GSCJR,
Your in Canada and Canadian ambient temperatures are nowhere near the same as they are in Texas.
No and No. The 30 is the Grade which relates to a viscosity range at 100 deg C. The W number is a test range for pumpability at temps far below freezing.
5W mutigrades tend to be made from low viscosity base stock blends, 10W somewhat higher viscosity basestock.
The higher viscosity base oil in mono grades and big W number multi's provide a better working "film strength" but only in concert with quality EP and AW additives.
True iv and v group synthetic oil can break some of the above rules-of-thumb as they can avoid gelling at cold temps and provide pumpability and meet low W numbers with a higher ISO basestock
Why is it a hassle ?
Air cooled engines have zero temperature regulation. They often run cool under low load conditions and excessively hot when heavily loaded. The 20 viscosity oil and it's HTHS of 2.7 will be fine when oil temps don't climb. But it is generally accepted that for full protection under harsh conditions, when oil temp climbs into the mid 200's, an HTHS of 3.8 is necessary.
Honda generally does a great job designing their engines not to overheat the oil, the secret to long life. Even so, if conditions are harsh, a robust oil is best.
Honda generally does a great job designing their engines not to overheat the oil, the secret to long life. Even so, if conditions are harsh, a robust oil is best.
I would just leave it alone for this OCI.Lots of steps skipped there though, that assumes I have the mower and all the supplies out ready to go. I don't have any more oil changes to do for a while, and I don't have any waste oil ready to go out
So, I'd have to dirty up my "clean" oil drain pan or oil sucker doo-dad, and funnel. I'd also have to then have some waste oil sitting there ready to go out, and then clean everything again when I'm done, and accidentally drop some on the garage floor (Required step)
Figured I'd check here first, no point in changing it out if its not even required
I may just leave it in there, I really doubt its going to make much of a difference. Just don't reference this post when I show off a new mower in another thread
But I have a suggestion for future oil changes for the Honda (to reduce the hassle)...instead of digging out a drain pan, just go to the local 7-11 and get a large cup of soda. After you finish the soda and dump the ice, just remove the fill cap/dipstick and set it aside, hold the cup under the spout, and tilt the mower to the side to pour the oil into the cup; sometimes it is helpful to put your foot against the tire to keep it from sliding as you tip it with one hand. It only takes about 14 ounces of oil so the cup will not overflow. The drink cup even comes with a lid...
That's for sure.
Your cutting average fuel economy will increase with 5w20.
I'd change the oil, especially considering TX heat, and that those cost around $400, is not a $200 walmart special.
That's a little bit of a nuanced answer for a basic question about OIL FOR A LAWNMOWER. In this application, I think we can assert the equivalency of 0W30 and 5W30.
I know you're joking, but I think I noticed a difference. Am I just going crazy?
No, not crazy. Just imaginative, any difference would be quite small in relation to the numerous uncontrolled variables.
In other words it’s deep in the noise.
Butt Dyno must be miscalibrated
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I've mixed 5w20 with 5w30 one summer with our craftsman tractor and nothing bad happened so 
I'm going to pull the 5W-20 out and mix the rest of the 5W-20 with this 15W-40 I just bought and throw it back in
Of course not since that is a 40-grade oil. Physics matters, an oil of a higher HT/HS won’t damage the engine but one with too low most certainly can.
Or maybe there is not even one lawnmower on the face of the earth that has been damaged by a slightly thinner oil. Possibilities and probabilities are very different things.
Yes but too low of a MOFT is exactly how you create wear. For what reason should I or anyone risk that happening? Just to get 100 square feet extra of cutting per tank? There's no downside. I also use a Euro approved oil for the other benefits such as proven deposit resistance.
My Toro aluminum deck lawn mower was built in the early 90s and is still going strong, perhaps that influences my choice.
