PP vs PU

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Can someone explain the differences between PP and PU? Since PU is becoming harder to find I am considering switching to either PP or Mobil1 EP in a 30wt grade. Not sure if it will be 0W30, 5W30 or 10W30. Would like to understand the differences before I do so though. It does look like I can order PU online and have it shipped to the local Walmart if it is not stocked.
 
PU is comparable to Mobil EP, and neither is available as a 0W-30. PP is comparable to Mobil 1. All of those are great choices. Just get what is readily available and least expensive.
 
Look at the data on the pqia site for 5w30's they recently tested. There was a recent thread in this forum about PP vs PU as well.
 
PU has "gas-to-liquid" base stocks (or so it seems) while PP base stocks are derived primarily from crude oil. The GTL base stocks seem "better", having very low volatility for example.

Low volatility is a good thing, partcularly if your car has a direct injection engine. The cars in your signature don't, so any of the choices you mention would be just fine.

Ultra looks to be a goner at WalMart, though so it may be hard to find and expensive, in which case PP or Mobil1 would be my choice.
 
I remember when PU and PP came out. It was a BIG sponsor here on the Forums. When I went to WM they had TONS of it. Now that the prices are coming down on them I see PU dwindling at WM. All I see now are qt. containers, and they are placed all over the oil shelves. It's like being on an Easter egg hunt trying to find them.
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I wonder if the cost of making PU over PP is why it's going away?
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The PU must have been a slow mover at Walmart stores. The 2 jugs of PU I got at Walmart recently at the $21 clearance price were caked with dust from sitting on shelf. Space shelf at Walmart is valuable, if stuff doesn't move fast enough for Walmart to make money...it gets replaced with something else on gondola.
 
EP is a different beast than M1/PU/PP. You'll only get your money's worth out of EP if you plan to do an extended drain OCI.
 
I believe EP uses the same basestock as regular Mobil 1 and the main difference is a stronger additive package for longer drain intervals.
 
My understanding is that PU's add pack is almost identical to PP's, but PU's base oil is of superior quality (prolly most advance at the moment)

Where as it seems to me that M1 & M1 EP have same base oil, but EP having a stronger add pack to last 15K miles OCI under normal service.

Other than Walmart, try looking for PU at Target/Kmart/Pep Boys/Autozone/Ebay&Amazon!
 
I went to Walmart today and they had PU in 5w30, 10w30 and 5w20. It also has a $10 mail in rebate form stuck on it bringing the 5qt price to less than $20. Hard to beat that so I got the 5w30.

I will probably go back soon and get some more before it is all gone. I was going to get EP but the rebate made it worth sticking to the PU.
 
The biggest difference between PU and PP is:

* GTL basestock in PU versus regular Group III+ in PP

* PU has 152 parts per million of BORON versus only 2 in PP
 
My cousin has a 2010 Tacoma. He does 5K mile OCI'S with M1 EP 10W30 and a FRAM OCOD filter. 10W30 because he says anything less is too thin. A FRAM OCOD, because he says Don Garlits used them and John Force uses them.
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PU = Group III+ = GTL
PP = Group III, with some grades III+ added in .

Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
The biggest difference between PU and PP is:

* GTL basestock in PU versus regular Group III+ in PP

* PU has 152 parts per million of BORON versus only 2 in PP
 
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