Iam considering using mobil,1 racing oil for street use in my camaro Ls3 and would like a little input to the idea, the car is driven aggresively and iam always interested in different ways to make more HP, in theroy less fricton more ponies, what do you think
opinion on race oil for street use
- Thread starter bowtieguy03
- Start date
- Status
Should be fine. As long as you understand that the dealer might give you grief if you ever need warranty service, give it a shot if you want.
I wouldn't expect a lot more horsepower out of it, though. You might notice it if you were trying to shave milliseconds off your track times, but likely not on the street.
I wouldn't expect a lot more horsepower out of it, though. You might notice it if you were trying to shave milliseconds off your track times, but likely not on the street.
I am sure Q Horsepower 5w30 would serve you well and save you money. Maybe others will have better input but that is my thoughts.
Q Horsepower is not made anymore, its all ultimate durability now. And even then it was not really racing oil.
I would use Brad Penn 10w30 or 0w30.
I would use Brad Penn 10w30 or 0w30.
By AE Haas:
`Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. The oils do not meet the API / SAE requirements for ratings as SJ, SL or now SM.`
`Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. The oils do not meet the API / SAE requirements for ratings as SJ, SL or now SM.`
It`s either racing oil or its not. I have never seen a racing/street oil.
From Mobil web site Q&A:
You say the new Mobil 1 Racing oils are not for street use. Why is that? Does that mean I can't use these oils if my race car is also my daily driver?
Automotive street use oils that meet the latest industry standards are required to have a lower level of Zinc and Phosphorus anti-wear chemistries than oils formulated years ago. The latest automotive street use engine oils are designed to be compatible with emission control equipment. Mobil 1 Racing oils are formulated with anti-wear (Zinc/Phosphorus) chemistries at twice the level of automotive street oils to provide enhanced protection of highly loaded valve train systems found in some race engines. Based on the high level of anti-wear chemistries, Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for street use.
From Mobil web site Q&A:
You say the new Mobil 1 Racing oils are not for street use. Why is that? Does that mean I can't use these oils if my race car is also my daily driver?
Automotive street use oils that meet the latest industry standards are required to have a lower level of Zinc and Phosphorus anti-wear chemistries than oils formulated years ago. The latest automotive street use engine oils are designed to be compatible with emission control equipment. Mobil 1 Racing oils are formulated with anti-wear (Zinc/Phosphorus) chemistries at twice the level of automotive street oils to provide enhanced protection of highly loaded valve train systems found in some race engines. Based on the high level of anti-wear chemistries, Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for street use.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Q Horsepower is not made anymore, its all ultimate durability now. And even then it was not really racing oil.
I would use Brad Penn 10w30 or 0w30.
It stills says "QHorsepower®" right under "Ultimate Durability™".
Q Horsepower is not made anymore, its all ultimate durability now. And even then it was not really racing oil.
I would use Brad Penn 10w30 or 0w30.
It stills says "QHorsepower®" right under "Ultimate Durability™".
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Q Horsepower is not made anymore, its all ultimate durability now. And even then it was not really racing oil.
I would use Brad Penn 10w30 or 0w30.
It stills says "QHorsepower®" right under "Ultimate Durability™".
Yep.
It's still Q Horsepower, but they tote the Ultimate Durability in bigger font.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Q Horsepower is not made anymore, its all ultimate durability now. And even then it was not really racing oil.
I would use Brad Penn 10w30 or 0w30.
It stills says "QHorsepower®" right under "Ultimate Durability™".
Yep.
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
It`s either racing oil or its not. I have never seen a racing/street oil.
Motul 300V (street capable race oil)
Mobil 1 0w-40, Castrol TWS 10w-60 (race capable street oils)
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
From Mobil web site Q&A:
You say the new Mobil 1 Racing oils are not for street use. Why is that? Does that mean I can't use these oils if my race car is also my daily driver?
Automotive street use oils that meet the latest industry standards are required to have a lower level of Zinc and Phosphorus anti-wear chemistries than oils formulated years ago. The latest automotive street use engine oils are designed to be compatible with emission control equipment. Mobil 1 Racing oils are formulated with anti-wear (Zinc/Phosphorus) chemistries at twice the level of automotive street oils to provide enhanced protection of highly loaded valve train systems found in some race engines. Based on the high level of anti-wear chemistries, Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for street use.
Interesting.
The other reason a race oil might be marked as "race use only" is that it doesn't have enough detergents and such to last for more than a few hundred miles. That's what I was thinking about. But if the only concern is emissions system compatibility, it should be fine for street use as long as you don't care how long your catalytic converters and O2 sensors live...
It`s either racing oil or its not. I have never seen a racing/street oil.
Motul 300V (street capable race oil)
Mobil 1 0w-40, Castrol TWS 10w-60 (race capable street oils)
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
From Mobil web site Q&A:
You say the new Mobil 1 Racing oils are not for street use. Why is that? Does that mean I can't use these oils if my race car is also my daily driver?
Automotive street use oils that meet the latest industry standards are required to have a lower level of Zinc and Phosphorus anti-wear chemistries than oils formulated years ago. The latest automotive street use engine oils are designed to be compatible with emission control equipment. Mobil 1 Racing oils are formulated with anti-wear (Zinc/Phosphorus) chemistries at twice the level of automotive street oils to provide enhanced protection of highly loaded valve train systems found in some race engines. Based on the high level of anti-wear chemistries, Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for street use.
Interesting.
The other reason a race oil might be marked as "race use only" is that it doesn't have enough detergents and such to last for more than a few hundred miles. That's what I was thinking about. But if the only concern is emissions system compatibility, it should be fine for street use as long as you don't care how long your catalytic converters and O2 sensors live...
Originally Posted By: bowtieguy03
Iam considering using mobil,1 racing oil for street use in my camaro Ls3 and would like a little input to the idea, the car is driven aggresively and iam always interested in different ways to make more HP, in theroy less fricton more ponies, what do you think
There should be no problem running this oil in your LS3. Even though regular Mobil 1 would fit the bill just fine.
Iam considering using mobil,1 racing oil for street use in my camaro Ls3 and would like a little input to the idea, the car is driven aggresively and iam always interested in different ways to make more HP, in theroy less fricton more ponies, what do you think
There should be no problem running this oil in your LS3. Even though regular Mobil 1 would fit the bill just fine.
Yep, no problem with using it.
Just don't expect a bunch of hp gains.
Just don't expect a bunch of hp gains.
I still have some red cap 15w50 Mobil 1 that I would sell you cheap if you were closer.
1) Don't use racing oil unless you enjoy tearing down your engine every few weeks.
2) Your greatest increase in racing times will come from improving your driving technique and investing in quality tires.
3) Play with suspension geometry before you ever bother to think about the oil. (PROTIP: You won't think about oil once you learn how complicated suspension tuning is and following an optimal driving line is)
Run the manufacturer recommended grade of oil, which I believe is 5w-30 for your vehicle.
It is extremely unlikely that your engine (or any other engine, for that matter) needs more than a few ppm of zinc/phosphorous because you are well past the major break-in period. 800 ppm of Zn/P as specified by API SM is still extremely major overkill for most engines post-break-in so you should not worry about it. The oil film rarely breaks under most conditions so there is no need for Zn/P most of the time. Even track abuse qualifies as "most of the time." Just do what the manufacturer says regarding oil and don't mess with it any further.
TL;DR version:
Forget the oil. Focus on yourself.
2) Your greatest increase in racing times will come from improving your driving technique and investing in quality tires.
3) Play with suspension geometry before you ever bother to think about the oil. (PROTIP: You won't think about oil once you learn how complicated suspension tuning is and following an optimal driving line is)
Run the manufacturer recommended grade of oil, which I believe is 5w-30 for your vehicle.
It is extremely unlikely that your engine (or any other engine, for that matter) needs more than a few ppm of zinc/phosphorous because you are well past the major break-in period. 800 ppm of Zn/P as specified by API SM is still extremely major overkill for most engines post-break-in so you should not worry about it. The oil film rarely breaks under most conditions so there is no need for Zn/P most of the time. Even track abuse qualifies as "most of the time." Just do what the manufacturer says regarding oil and don't mess with it any further.
TL;DR version:
Forget the oil. Focus on yourself.
Stay away from so called "racing oils". Mobil 1 will be fine for your car and offer better additive packages than a race oil. Actually the best thing to a racing street oil would be Redline. I think racing and street do not go together for obvious reasons.
What API spec does this oil carry?
I ask because the old M1R 0W-30, clearanced by AA last spring, was perfectly suitable for street use, and is very similar to the current M1 AFE, from what I have read.
Beware the term "racing", as it can cover a lot of ground.
I ask because the old M1R 0W-30, clearanced by AA last spring, was perfectly suitable for street use, and is very similar to the current M1 AFE, from what I have read.
Beware the term "racing", as it can cover a lot of ground.
Originally Posted By: djlinux64
1) Don't use racing oil unless you enjoy tearing down your engine every few weeks.
2) Your greatest increase in racing times will come from improving your driving technique and investing in quality tires.
3) Play with suspension geometry before you ever bother to think about the oil. (PROTIP: You won't think about oil once you learn how complicated suspension tuning is and following an optimal driving line is)
Run the manufacturer recommended grade of oil, which I believe is 5w-30 for your vehicle.
It is extremely unlikely that your engine (or any other engine, for that matter) needs more than a few ppm of zinc/phosphorous because you are well past the major break-in period. 800 ppm of Zn/P as specified by API SM is still extremely major overkill for most engines post-break-in so you should not worry about it. The oil film rarely breaks under most conditions so there is no need for Zn/P most of the time. Even track abuse qualifies as "most of the time." Just do what the manufacturer says regarding oil and don't mess with it any further.
TL;DR version:
Forget the oil. Focus on yourself.
I use Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 in my flat tappet 383 stroker 'vette ('76). This oil has 0.14/0.13 Zinc/Phosphorus. From what I have read, flat tappet engines should run at least 0.10/0.10 ZDDP to avoid cam and lifter wear. This oil is NOT labeled for off street use only. Valvoline web site says this oil has enough detergents so it can be used for street use and normal OCI, but not extended intervals.
Been running VR-1 for about 4 years, ever since I built the stroker. This is not the Valvoline VR-1 Off Road Racing Only oil.
Priced right at my local NAPA store.
1) Don't use racing oil unless you enjoy tearing down your engine every few weeks.
2) Your greatest increase in racing times will come from improving your driving technique and investing in quality tires.
3) Play with suspension geometry before you ever bother to think about the oil. (PROTIP: You won't think about oil once you learn how complicated suspension tuning is and following an optimal driving line is)
Run the manufacturer recommended grade of oil, which I believe is 5w-30 for your vehicle.
It is extremely unlikely that your engine (or any other engine, for that matter) needs more than a few ppm of zinc/phosphorous because you are well past the major break-in period. 800 ppm of Zn/P as specified by API SM is still extremely major overkill for most engines post-break-in so you should not worry about it. The oil film rarely breaks under most conditions so there is no need for Zn/P most of the time. Even track abuse qualifies as "most of the time." Just do what the manufacturer says regarding oil and don't mess with it any further.
TL;DR version:
Forget the oil. Focus on yourself.
I use Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 in my flat tappet 383 stroker 'vette ('76). This oil has 0.14/0.13 Zinc/Phosphorus. From what I have read, flat tappet engines should run at least 0.10/0.10 ZDDP to avoid cam and lifter wear. This oil is NOT labeled for off street use only. Valvoline web site says this oil has enough detergents so it can be used for street use and normal OCI, but not extended intervals.
Been running VR-1 for about 4 years, ever since I built the stroker. This is not the Valvoline VR-1 Off Road Racing Only oil.
Priced right at my local NAPA store.
- Status
Similar threads
