Oil Recomendation

[kilkm68]

Hello all!

I just discovered this forum and this is my first post. Oil is a subject that is always debated, ask 100 different people and get 100 different opinions. I've got quite an education reading through Bob's oil university papers, but I'm still a little uncertain if I'm using the right oil, people here seem pretty knowledgeable so I'd like to ask your opinions. I have a 1968 Pontiac GTO With a 474 cubic inch engine bored, stroked and blueprinted, about 500 to 550 horsepower. It has a small hydraulic roller cam Aluminum pistons Edelbrock aluminum heads built by Butler performance Headers with 3 inch exhaust Edlebrock Pontiac performer intake manifold Edelbrock 800 CFM Thunder series carburetor and HEI ignition. It's a weekend toy no serious drag racing and I put about 2000 miles a year on it. I live in Illinois and it's in the garage from November to April but I do like to start it once and a while and take it for a short ride when the roads are dry. when I first got this car I was using the Valvoline 10 W 40 oil but was concerned with only 19 PSI at idle. I then switch to Castrol 20 W 50 oil But saw no reall improvement in pressure at idle when hot. I started using Brad Penn 20W50 And saw a big increase in pressure it now carries 30 psi at idle And 60 PSI at cruising speed About 2200 RPM's I thought I'd found the right oil for this engine But after reading some of the information on this site I am questioning that. Should I be using a synthetic maybe a 5W50? The motor rarely sees over 5000 RPM's and 5500 at the max. I'm interested in your opinions and appreciate your input Thanks

 

[randomhero439]

20w-50 is fine as long as you use the car in 50+ degree weather. 5w-50 is a good oil, i would probably use that and see what the pressure is. Try Redline 5w-50.

 

[fauxchemist]

50 grade anything is to thick. Its not a Nascar. By the way, neither does Nascar

 

[mailman74]

 

[spasm3]

Since the engine is not stock, no one can tell you what oil viscosity to use except the builder ( unless you know the main bearing clearances) in this case. The main and rod bearing clearances should be your guide as to what to run.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: fauxchemist
50 grade anything is to thick. Its not a Nascar. By the way, neither does Nascar


Hence why all the Ford GT500 cars are specced for 5w-50.

 

[oldhp]

Check out Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil. Since car sits for long periods of time JG oil is designed for that.
The 19psi at idle with 10W40 shouldn't be a worry since you have roller cam.
Don't fall into the big horsepower, I need 50wt oil hype.
Oil wt should based on bearing clearance's.

 

[fauxchemist]

Originally Posted By: oldhp
Check out Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil. Since car sits for long periods of time JG oil is designed for that.
The 19psi at idle with 10W40 shouldn't be a worry since you have roller cam.
Don't fall into the big horsepower, I need 50wt oil hype.
Oil wt should based on bearing clearance's.


What he said......RANDOMHERO

 

[Clevy]

Start with a quality 10w-30 if its strictly a summer car. Check the oil pressure. If its adequate then enjoy a long life in that awesome car. If pressure is too low go up a grade.
Remember,more pressure is resistance to flow. Find the happy medium.

 

[Bandito440]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
20w-50 is fine as long as you use the car in 50+ degree weather. 5w-50 is a good oil, i would probably use that and see what the pressure is. Try Redline 5w-50.


I found Red Line 5w-50 to be a fine product. I'd probably go that route and change it annually. In general though, you're on the right track with your choices. 50wt won't hurt anything, although I wouldn't use 20w-50 below freezing temperatures myself. If you drop back to a 40 wt, Rotella T6 is my old standby.

 

[Clevy]

Unless your driving a road course in that car a 50 grade is too thick. The oil pump will be working harder and less gpm of oil will be circulating through the engine.
OP. do you have a real oil pressure gauge? What about oil temp? Just because its a big block doesn't automatically mean it needs a 50 grade.

 

[daman]

Nice car i had a '70 with a built 400 miss that car,anyway 19psi at idle is plenty,Try Mobil 1 15w50 it has a nice add pack and is on the thin side of a 50w during operation so its not too thick and can be used in cooler weather.

 

[kilkm68]

Thanks for your replies. I believe the main bearing clearances are .030. When I start this motor, even during the summer months the oil pressure gauge goes clear to 85psi. I've been concerned about that. Is synthetic the clear choice? I was thinking Castro Syntec 5w50 Redline 5w50 or Mobile 1 15w50. Does ZDDP need to be added to the synthetics? When I talked with techs at Butler Performance, who supplied parts and specs to the engine builder they told me they use Valvoline 20w50 Synthetic Racing Oil in their RACE engines but stopped short of a recommendation for my street engine. With the large bearing clearance but considering the excessive pressure at start up should I really be using a 50 weight oil? I do have a real oil pressure gauge, a transmission cooler and temp gauge but not an oil temp gauge.

 

[electrolover]

If you dont know the clearances choose based on oil pressure. Steer clear of aynthetics. Its a waist or money because theres no way you can do long drains. The brad penn sounds like its doing well. You could also try valvoline vr1 20/50. Or my fav joe gibbs.

If shelf oil is what you want look into rotella T 20/50. A lot of race cars ru. Rotella here with out issue.

 

[Bandito440]

I can't seem to translate the last message, but if you're okay with Mobil 1 15w-50, that would be a fine choice. It has enough zinc for your application. The best part is that Wal-Mart has it in 5-quart jugs for about $26.

 

[oldhp]

M1 15W50 would be good choice in summer, won't hurt anything.
I ran JG 15W50 dino last summer because it said good for big blocks. This summer I'm going to run JG 10W30 dino with Royal Purple oil filter. Should be ok for the way I drive and will give better oil circulation on startup.
.060 over 440, balanced, blueprinted, gone through 452 heads, full Comp Cams valve train, steel crank, six-pack rods, KB hypretech stepped pistons. Has measured 9.3 to 1 compression.
Stock rod/main clearances, HV oil pump with stock relief spring.
Just a nice warmed over big ol'440, um...452. "Cruiser motor"

 

[A_Harman]

Brad Penn is not a bad choice, but since your car has a roller cam, high zddp is not necessary. Having to go to a 50-weight oil to get 60 psi makes me think that the bearing clearances are loose. For occasional street use, and no racing, I don't see the need for 50-weight. Try Brad Penn 10w40 and see how that effects oil pressure. 85 psi for cold start oil pressure is too much, and a 10w40 may help on that. Redline 10w40 would be even better if you don't mind paying the extra $$$.

 

[threeputtpar]

If you're looking for cheap and effective, I'd suggest any 15W-40 HDEO changed once a year in the fall before storage.

If you really want synthetic, Amsoil has Z-Rod in 10W-30 and 20W-50. They advertise it as a good oil for storage or extended time of non-running. The 10W-30 is on the heavy side of the 30 scale, so it should also keep the oil pressure up for you.

 

[07GT500]

I've been doing a lot of reading & research on different types of oils...the deeper you DIG the more confused you get! My conclusions are if you strictly "STREET" drive and the occasional blast a good quality 10W-30 to a good 40 weight is all we need on STOCK set-up, I'm on the fence between MOBIL 1 0W-40 (Sm or SN) or SHELL T6 5W-40 (SM/multi)...but here is where I'm confused, FORD recently revised their spec to "C" which I can't find, they first started with "A" then "B" and all these specs seem to relate to lower "Phosphorus" levels to prolong/protect CATYLIC CONVERTERS.

I know we all want fair amounts of ZINC & PHOSPHORUS (1000/1200) but when it comes to CATS it seems to be a killer FORD spec seem to avg 700 +/-...I'm not consuming oil but being SUPERCHARGED which creates a lot of pressure in sump under boost blows back OIL VAPORS threw the PCV back into intake and burns off! I installed a JLT Oil Catch Can which seem to work to a certain point but still lets some oil back to intake...Ford SPEC oil are extremly low in Zc/Ph for the BLOW BY caused by S/C. No other MFG meets FORD'S spec to this day, CASTROL have revised their spec and no longer meets or recommends it I even called "CASTROL" to confirm and got a BIG no! If you compare the Castrol Syntec 5W-50 to SHELL T6 5W-40 they're almost carbon copy except for WEIGHT...Castrol being a light 50 and T6 mid 40 I also noticed these 2 oils are LOADED with Magnesium which is another concern for causing sludge? MOBIL 1 0W-40 seems to be the oil thats kind of a in between a low 40 wieght descent amounts of Zc/Ph low amounts of Mag and a good HT/HS 3.8 which Ford 5.4L S/C recommends 3.7

Im actully running MOBIL 1 5W-50, my concern are it being to HEAVY a mid 50 weight 17.5 @ 100c and a HTHS of 4.4, I noticed that after a long drive and let the car sit for 1/2 hour or so and when you start it up again you tend to get some VALVE LASH noise...I dumped a Liter out and replaced it with 5W-20 to thin in out and seemed better afterwards, I spent a ton of money on RED LINE 5W-50 to end up dumping it...START up was good but IDLING was very noisy you could here a lot of VALVE TRAIN/LASH noise, I don't have a oil guage to comfirm oil pressure but it was scary! I DO NOT recommend RED LINE 5W-50 in any STREET driven 5.4L it's a true heavy 50 19.19 CST @ 100c and UOA show that it's not prone to shearing remains low 50 high 40 weight it's a good Track oil, as I mentioned earlier 5.4L S/C seem to like a Heavy 30 to 40 weight for your cruising street driving.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
If you're looking for cheap and effective, I'd suggest any 15W-40 HDEO changed once a year in the fall before storage.

If you really want synthetic, Amsoil has Z-Rod in 10W-30 and 20W-50. They advertise it as a good oil for storage or extended time of non-running. The 10W-30 is on the heavy side of the 30 scale, so it should also keep the oil pressure up for you.


Agreed. A 50 grade is insanity for anything less than a hot running air cooled engine. I would use rotella conventional 15w-40 and change it yearly based on the op's driving habits and operating conditions. At the yearly mileage incurred a syn is an utter waste of money.
Don't get me wrong. I love m1 0w-40. As overkill says its the nectar of the gods but in this particular application mileage and driving conditions indicate to me a long drain syn isn't required,and cost is double vs the rotella.
Jmo