Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Originally Posted by GJM120
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Of course seawater or some other electrolyte is needed to make this all work.
source
Edit: Cathode = current flows out. Anode = current flows in from outside This will help clear any confusion reading the table since the direction of current matters.
Ignorant question - which way if spark plug threads are coated?
When I changed my plugs on my N52 the old ones were very hard to loosen. So I put a tiny smudge of anti-seize on the new plugs. Frankly I can't remember what anti-seize I used but think it was copper based.
I adjusted the torque value downward to account for the lubricating property of the anti-seize since I considered over tightening the biggest risk. I didn't put enough to where I'd think conductivity was an issue. FWIW - BMW TIS says no to anti-seize. Bentley says yes.
IIRC the threads on Bosch plugs are nickel plated.
IMO BMW says no to anti-seize because they haven't found a reason to use it due to the comparatively short change intervals AND/OR the fact that they can't control the amount of anti-seize applied by the technician.
In my limited experience I would only worry about choice of anti-seize on marine applications or where the plugs are routinely exposed to water (Agriculture?).
The plugs I put in were NGK as were the ones from the factory. NGK also advises against using anti-seize their stated reason is the possibility of over-torqueing. Since I adjusted the torque down about 20% not worried about that. Like I mentioned, the originals were extremely hard to get out (at only ~ 50,000 miles) so I went with a very small smear of anti-seize.
Hopefully the car never sees water
Thanks.