I am getting ready to buy a new lawn mower but I'm having trouble deciding what to get. My dad has a Husquvarna with a honda 160cc and I want something a little more powerful than that. I have been looking at the HU800AWD which has a 190cc Honda but I like the price of the new AWD Toro. It comes with a 163cc OHV and like .3 lb ft of tourqe more than the Honda 160cc. Also What oil to use? B&S says 30W, 10W-30, or 5W30 Syn. I was thinkinh PUP 5W30 but im not sure its worth it for a push mower. Valvoline SynPower is $5 less for a 5qt Jug. I was also thinking I could just get 1 qt of the Castrol XP since that a little over 2 oil changes for the B&S. IDK Help! too many choices. I wont buy Mobil anything just FYI.
New Push Mower
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The Honda 190s are harder to find...that Husqvarna does have it. I'd probably skip the AWD model myself...just too much to go wrong in my opinion. I doubt anything in the 160cc size class is going to be different enough from its competitors to really make a difference...so if the Honda 160 won't work for you, I think I'd look for a larger engine period.
The Honda 190 would be a good engine (8.3 lb*ft torque). Briggs' 725 QPT looks cool to me, too (part of their Quiet Power series). It's a 175cc engine. Their 875 series engine is a 190cc engine. With Briggs, I'd avoid a flathead engine. They're durable, but just not as nice as their OHV engines.
I'd probably avoid anything but a Honda or a Briggs. Both Honda and Briggs have established service networks (Briggs especially), so parts are easy to come by. Most other engines (including Kohler) are made in China and are, usually, reverse-engineered copies of the Honda GXV. Like the Honda GXV, the Chinese copies typically do have ball bearing crankshaft support bearings and iron cylinder sleeves, but parts availability can really be hit-or-miss. Who specs air filters for those? (Hopefully, it's the same as a common engine.) If you need a carburetor down the road, or even just a new needle or seat, where do you go?
Briggs has long been the market standard, and you can get Briggs parts pretty much anywhere you go. Honda parts availability is usually also very good, and their parts are very inexpensive. A genuine Honda carburetor is usually less than 30 bucks, for example.
The Honda 190 would be a good engine (8.3 lb*ft torque). Briggs' 725 QPT looks cool to me, too (part of their Quiet Power series). It's a 175cc engine. Their 875 series engine is a 190cc engine. With Briggs, I'd avoid a flathead engine. They're durable, but just not as nice as their OHV engines.
I'd probably avoid anything but a Honda or a Briggs. Both Honda and Briggs have established service networks (Briggs especially), so parts are easy to come by. Most other engines (including Kohler) are made in China and are, usually, reverse-engineered copies of the Honda GXV. Like the Honda GXV, the Chinese copies typically do have ball bearing crankshaft support bearings and iron cylinder sleeves, but parts availability can really be hit-or-miss. Who specs air filters for those? (Hopefully, it's the same as a common engine.) If you need a carburetor down the road, or even just a new needle or seat, where do you go?
Briggs has long been the market standard, and you can get Briggs parts pretty much anywhere you go. Honda parts availability is usually also very good, and their parts are very inexpensive. A genuine Honda carburetor is usually less than 30 bucks, for example.
Do you need a self-propelled model? If not, get a Craftsman push mower with the B&S 675 Gold motor. It's a pretty powerful engine, and the whole thing is lighter without the drive gear. I usually recommend that people steer clear of MTD stuff, but with the B&S engine and without drive gear, there isn't much to go wrong.
This is the model I have.
If you need a self-propelled model, those Husqvarnas are nice.
Use non-resource conserving 30- or 40-weight oil. A quart of Valvoline VR1 10w-30 will last you two OCIs. Change it after the first few hours, and then at the end of the season.
This is the model I have.
If you need a self-propelled model, those Husqvarnas are nice.
Use non-resource conserving 30- or 40-weight oil. A quart of Valvoline VR1 10w-30 will last you two OCIs. Change it after the first few hours, and then at the end of the season.
Is the 163cc the "toro" OHV engine? My Toro has the 159cc OHV so maybe they changed the engine spec. engine is very hondaish in a good way, and the personal pace system is a dream.
I would recommend using shell rotella T5 10w-30, 15.99 for a gallon and more anti-wear than those you list being a diesel oil. I too am curious if PUP 10w-30 would be suitable.
The toro manual specs. 10w-30 or 30w
I would recommend using shell rotella T5 10w-30, 15.99 for a gallon and more anti-wear than those you list being a diesel oil. I too am curious if PUP 10w-30 would be suitable.
The toro manual specs. 10w-30 or 30w
I use, and recommend push reel mowers:
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Is the 163cc the "toro" OHV engine? My Toro has the 159cc OHV so maybe they changed the engine spec. engine is very hondaish in a good way, and the personal pace system is a dream.
I would recommend using shell rotella T5 10w-30, 15.99 for a gallon and more anti-wear than those you list being a diesel oil. I too am curious if PUP 10w-30 would be suitable.
The toro manual specs. 10w-30 or 30w
The Toro is a new B&S its the 725 exi series, the one you dont have to change the oil in.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/engines/push-mower-engines/exi
They say you can use a 5W30 Syn. I run 0w20 PUP in my Lancer and I get way better gas milage than I did with Mitsubishi or M1 oil. Its also the only oil I used that keeps it from making a funny noise below -20. I need an AWD mower because im in the Military and if I were to get deployed my Wife would have to take care of the lawn and she has some medical conditions that something that pulls her would be much better than something she has to push.
Is the 163cc the "toro" OHV engine? My Toro has the 159cc OHV so maybe they changed the engine spec. engine is very hondaish in a good way, and the personal pace system is a dream.
I would recommend using shell rotella T5 10w-30, 15.99 for a gallon and more anti-wear than those you list being a diesel oil. I too am curious if PUP 10w-30 would be suitable.
The toro manual specs. 10w-30 or 30w
The Toro is a new B&S its the 725 exi series, the one you dont have to change the oil in.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/engines/push-mower-engines/exi
They say you can use a 5W30 Syn. I run 0w20 PUP in my Lancer and I get way better gas milage than I did with Mitsubishi or M1 oil. Its also the only oil I used that keeps it from making a funny noise below -20. I need an AWD mower because im in the Military and if I were to get deployed my Wife would have to take care of the lawn and she has some medical conditions that something that pulls her would be much better than something she has to push.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Do you need a self-propelled model? If not, get a Craftsman push mower with the B&S 675 Gold motor. It's a pretty powerful engine, and the whole thing is lighter without the drive gear. I usually recommend that people steer clear of MTD stuff, but with the B&S engine and without drive gear, there isn't much to go wrong.
This is the model I have.
If you need a self-propelled model, those Husqvarnas are nice.
Use non-resource conserving 30- or 40-weight oil. A quart of Valvoline VR1 10w-30 will last you two OCIs. Change it after the first few hours, and then at the end of the season.
If you get a Sears, make sure the model starts with 917. vs 247. 917=Husqvarna, 247=MTD.
Do you need a self-propelled model? If not, get a Craftsman push mower with the B&S 675 Gold motor. It's a pretty powerful engine, and the whole thing is lighter without the drive gear. I usually recommend that people steer clear of MTD stuff, but with the B&S engine and without drive gear, there isn't much to go wrong.
This is the model I have.
If you need a self-propelled model, those Husqvarnas are nice.
Use non-resource conserving 30- or 40-weight oil. A quart of Valvoline VR1 10w-30 will last you two OCIs. Change it after the first few hours, and then at the end of the season.
If you get a Sears, make sure the model starts with 917. vs 247. 917=Husqvarna, 247=MTD.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I use, and recommend push reel mowers
I have a reel mower and love it, but it is not for everyone. The reel mower will not cut the grass if it gets too high or if there are lots of sticks or weeds. I sometimes have to go back over a portion of my yard with a string trimmer.
I use, and recommend push reel mowers
I have a reel mower and love it, but it is not for everyone. The reel mower will not cut the grass if it gets too high or if there are lots of sticks or weeds. I sometimes have to go back over a portion of my yard with a string trimmer.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I use, and recommend push reel mowers:
If I didn't have 3/4th acre to mow, I'd be with you 100%. As it is, the Honda self propelled mower fits my needs and my declining physique perfectly.
Z
I use, and recommend push reel mowers:
If I didn't have 3/4th acre to mow, I'd be with you 100%. As it is, the Honda self propelled mower fits my needs and my declining physique perfectly.
Z
With 3/4 acres to mow I'd be looking at a riding mower and a pusher above for the trimming and exercise. Ed
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I bought a Cub Cadet SC100 push mower last year. I've been very happy with it, particularly when mulching. Never bogs down, even when the grass is thick and high. Bagging is ok, just kind of a small capacity bag, but, it is very easy to empty. Starts first pull every time even when brand new, and after winter storage. Can be bought at Home Depot on line.
It came with a quart of oil. Instructions said to change it after 5 hrs. I put in some RP 5w-30 that I picked up for $2 per quart a while ago FWIW.
It came with a quart of oil. Instructions said to change it after 5 hrs. I put in some RP 5w-30 that I picked up for $2 per quart a while ago FWIW.
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I use a 50/50 mix of 5W-30 and 10W-30, full synthetic.
Usually whatever is the cheapest, NAPA has $3.79 specials every so often, Supertech, or AutoZone house brand...
Usually whatever is the cheapest, NAPA has $3.79 specials every so often, Supertech, or AutoZone house brand...
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I'd probably avoid anything but a Honda or a Briggs. Both Honda and Briggs have established service networks (Briggs especially), so parts are easy to come by. Most other engines (including Kohler) are made in China and are, usually, reverse-engineered copies of the Honda GXV. Like the Honda GXV, the Chinese copies typically do have ball bearing crankshaft support bearings and iron cylinder sleeves, but parts availability can really be hit-or-miss. Who specs air filters for those? (Hopefully, it's the same as a common engine.) If you need a carburetor down the road, or even just a new needle or seat, where do you go?
Briggs has long been the market standard, and you can get Briggs parts pretty much anywhere you go. Honda parts availability is usually also very good, and their parts are very inexpensive. A genuine Honda carburetor is usually less than 30 bucks, for example.
Maybe it's a regional thing. My local OPE shop has all my Kohler stuff in stock all the time, I've never had to order a filter or maintenance part. Honda was always more of a mail-order proposition.
Also the original B&S V-Twins weren't Made-in-China Daihatsu license Engine blocks? They sheared so many flywheel keys and bent pushrods, they practically single handedly made Kohler the V-Twin standard of the OPE world. Since then B&S's experiments with plastic camshafts haven't exactly endeared the world to them, either.
Don't get me wrong, I love my many old B&S singles and parts are indeed cheap and available, if the price is high chances are Oregon or Stens has it cheaper. But I had several friends have their early B&S V-Twins [censored] out early, and it wasn't poor maintenance. Maybe they're better now but I have yet to find someone willing to take a chance on them.
I'd probably avoid anything but a Honda or a Briggs. Both Honda and Briggs have established service networks (Briggs especially), so parts are easy to come by. Most other engines (including Kohler) are made in China and are, usually, reverse-engineered copies of the Honda GXV. Like the Honda GXV, the Chinese copies typically do have ball bearing crankshaft support bearings and iron cylinder sleeves, but parts availability can really be hit-or-miss. Who specs air filters for those? (Hopefully, it's the same as a common engine.) If you need a carburetor down the road, or even just a new needle or seat, where do you go?
Briggs has long been the market standard, and you can get Briggs parts pretty much anywhere you go. Honda parts availability is usually also very good, and their parts are very inexpensive. A genuine Honda carburetor is usually less than 30 bucks, for example.
Maybe it's a regional thing. My local OPE shop has all my Kohler stuff in stock all the time, I've never had to order a filter or maintenance part. Honda was always more of a mail-order proposition.
Also the original B&S V-Twins weren't Made-in-China Daihatsu license Engine blocks? They sheared so many flywheel keys and bent pushrods, they practically single handedly made Kohler the V-Twin standard of the OPE world. Since then B&S's experiments with plastic camshafts haven't exactly endeared the world to them, either.
Don't get me wrong, I love my many old B&S singles and parts are indeed cheap and available, if the price is high chances are Oregon or Stens has it cheaper. But I had several friends have their early B&S V-Twins [censored] out early, and it wasn't poor maintenance. Maybe they're better now but I have yet to find someone willing to take a chance on them.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 for summer equipment and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 for winter stuff. API SL ZDDP levels with synthetic goodness and it even has Boron and moly.
Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss
My dad has a Husquvarna with a honda 160cc and I want something a little more powerful than that.
Honda has the 190cc engine which will pretty much be on some $400 and up machines. Briggs has their professional series overhead valve engines in 175cc and 190cc. They are REALLY good engines from what I have seen. The 190cc Briggs Professional is pretty much non-existent out there in the wild, but the 175cc has good power and is on quite a few mowers now.
Some of the MTD, Ariens, and Husqvarna mowers have a Chinese 173cc Kohler (or non-Kohler) engine that is pretty powerful. I'd definitely get the Briggs 175cc over one of these.
That's about all you have for options, unless you want to fork out over a grand for a commercial mower with a Kawasaki engine.
Briggs Proffesional Series Engine
My dad has a Husquvarna with a honda 160cc and I want something a little more powerful than that.
Honda has the 190cc engine which will pretty much be on some $400 and up machines. Briggs has their professional series overhead valve engines in 175cc and 190cc. They are REALLY good engines from what I have seen. The 190cc Briggs Professional is pretty much non-existent out there in the wild, but the 175cc has good power and is on quite a few mowers now.
Some of the MTD, Ariens, and Husqvarna mowers have a Chinese 173cc Kohler (or non-Kohler) engine that is pretty powerful. I'd definitely get the Briggs 175cc over one of these.
That's about all you have for options, unless you want to fork out over a grand for a commercial mower with a Kawasaki engine.
Briggs Proffesional Series Engine
I absolutely loved my Honda GCV 160 (Mine was p/n HRR216K9VKA). I never had one single issue with it, and it cut grass like a dream.
Get. The. Honda.
I used Rotella T5 10W-30 sometimes, and PP 10W-30 sometimes. Never noticed a difference.
Get. The. Honda.
I used Rotella T5 10W-30 sometimes, and PP 10W-30 sometimes. Never noticed a difference.
Go with the Honda engine. One thing to consider is how will the rest of the mower hold up.
That is the weak point.
That is the weak point.
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