Yes, that could be a possible concern. If you bring your own filter and it has a P-gasket maybe just point it out to the guy. Any good shop should know the difference between the gasket styles and how to install the filter correctly.
New Carquest EP 20k Filter C&P
- Thread starter Glenda W.
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I too don't like the idea of it getting marred up, scratched up. It very likely won't hurt, like you said it's outside the gasket. But I don't think anyone enjoys that idea. It's likely a non issue if the p seal is installed correctly and not over tightened, but who wants to hope the shop does that
No difference? It is a very nice looking filter, but if PG's specs are true, there really isn't any advantage to running these over the standard premium/extended PG filters unless you are trying to run 20k intervals?
i like how clean it’s.
Waiting for some one on YouTube to do a leak test
Waiting for some one on YouTube to do a leak test
I did a leak test on post #14.i like how clean it’s.
Waiting for some one on YouTube to do a leak test
No leaf spring to be all ruffled up and leaking.i like how clean it’s.
Waiting for some one on YouTube to do a leak test
I thought the Premium Guard (Car Quest) was 99% at 20 microns?
Correct me if I’m wrong, what I learn is the longer recommend rating the higher mircron rating are.
They claim 99% @ 25 Micron for the Premium. Pentius claims 99% @ 20 micron.
I personally don’t believe Pentius, by all accounts they appear to be the same filters from the same source.
That or PG just chooses to be conservative in their published efficiency.
Who knows but they are the best thing going right now.
That or PG just chooses to be conservative in their published efficiency.
Who knows but they are the best thing going right now.
Got it. That´s what I thought and of which I was pretty sure. Thanks!
Not really. IIRC, Fram still claims 99%+ at 20 for the Endurance and Ultra. But it may be for others.
I´d love to run an efficiency test on a filter after a 20k OCI, when it is loaded up. And at 5k points along the way. To see what effect the filtered crud has on it.
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I always understood the torque stopper function to be a limiter of sorts. The same rule applies to the p style gasket, turn 3/4 turn past when gasket touches base. To check, I dug out an old Toyota filter, and it states 3/4 turn. Not necessary or even desirable to crank it down until it touches metal. It’s probably very close to touching at 3/4 turn.
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^^^ When I used Toyota oil filters on my Tacoma, the 3/4 turn did make the filter hit the mount seat. I saw marks in the seat from the can edge. "Torque stop" filters also use a P-gasket. It's just a fancy name meaning the can will hit the seat when tightened properly.
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I’m sure Toyota didn’t calculate this wrong and filter bases are to all get gouged. They don’t come gouged from the factory. You had to go a good bit past torque stop to make a gouge, like 5-10 degrees and a lot of torque. Now you say that was 3/4 turn. I don’t buy it, it was more.
I installed it per the directions, and the can hit the filter mount and left marks in the aluminum. I mentioned it and showed a photo about it many years ago in this forum.
Everyone has a different sense of when the rubber base gasket first hits the mount. A turn of 5-10 degrees isn't much. Toyota put 3/4 turn on the can because they didn't want people trying to go beyond that after the can bottoms out on the seat right around 3/4 turn, or it would be real difficult to remove later.
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Any further turning past metal contacts won’t machine the edge into the mount, the base plate will move down on the thread, possibly loosening the whole filter inside. No way Toyota designed filters to repeatedly gouge the mounting surface. I look at the torque stopper as a limit. The base should not scrape on the mount.
What are you talking about? - the base plate is thick and stiff - for a reason. It would have to be over tightened to an insane amount to make the base plate flex that much. And on a "torque stop" design you couldn't torque it that much anyway. Go see how far a torque stop filter turns with a bunch of added torque after it hits the seat - hardly any more, but enough to leave a mark in the seat. Probably couldn't even do it on a flat gasket before crumbling the can shell - it would have to be way past 1 turn (way over torqued) to make the base plate flex in any meaningful way.
BTW, some filters with a P-gasket call out a torque spec, which will cause the can to bottom out and even turn a bit more after the can contacts the seat to ensure the filter stays tight.
It does scrape and leaves a mark on the mounting base when the can OD starts hitting the seat. I've seen it happen many times on engines using a P-gasket ("torque stop") design. Go install one and drive it into the seat and see for yourself that the can leaves a mark in the seat.
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I think you like to argue. The base plate will bend on the thread when the metals contact, and if the installer keeps turning, the base keeps bending, being pulled down on the thread, scratching the mount. If you turn one turn after metal to metal you aren’t going to see a .060” deep groove in the aluminum. One turn is about .060”. I would have to see such a groove to believe it, after one turn.
I don’t think there are any grooves on my two Toyota mounting surfaces. Three if include another family members car. If there are, it wasn’t from me. It takes a lot to keep going after the metals contact. I would feel the difference right away and stop.
I stick to my concept that torque stopper is a limiter, not an install technique. Especially since the install instructions say 3/4 turn, not turn until stop.
