I personally just rather use the typical o ring style. I even drive a Hyundai that can prob benefit the most from a p style, if it has higher tolerance for pressure. And even if the plate would bend limiting scaring, I don't trust shops (I can't do my own change) at all.
New Carquest EP 20k Filter C&P
- Thread starter Glenda W.
- Start date
It's about clarifying what actually happens vs what's being imagined and not going to happen. I never said or even remotely eluded to that if the filter could be turned another 1 turn AFTER the can edge hit the mount base that it would cause a 0.060" groove in the seat. For starters, the filter can would destroy itself by crumpling if you tried to turn the filter 1 more turn after the can contacted the seat. Besides, who in their right mind would even do such a ludicrous thing. Do you even have any concept of how much more torque it would take to even turn the filter another 1/4 turn after the can hit the seat, if it could be done without damaging the thin can.
How much do you really think the heavy thick base plate is going to bend when the filter might be able to be turned maybe 5-10 degrees after the can hits the filter seat? You have a misconception of what the force and the resulting bending would be, even if the filter was turned a hair more after the can hits the seat. There would be no where near any significant force to bend the base plate in that case.
Apparently you never looked close enough to know since you say "I don't think" ... which means you really don't know for sure. I showed a photo of mine years ago ... probably back when you were 5 usernames ago.
Sure the "torque stop" is a torque limiter because it tells the installer to stop torquing when the filter abruptly stops turning. And it certainly is also "an install technique". The 3/4 turn instruction on the Toyota filter is going to make the filter real close if not actually making the can contact the seat - it depends on when the installer thinks the P-gasket first hits the filter mount, which can vary between people. Toyota did NOT say to turn the filter 7/8 turn or 1 turn after the O-ring first makes contact because it would cause too much torque on the filter after the can hit the seat - because it will hit around 3/4 turn. If the can hits the seat around 3/4 turn, then it certainly couldn't be turned to 1 turn anyway. As mentioned before, a lot of the "torque stop"type filters, and oil filters with a P-gasket I've seen actually have a torque spec on the filter can. Once the can hits the mount seat, the torque will be achieve with barely any more rotation of the filter. That ensures it's not over torqued, and that it doesn't loosen during use.
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I like the OEM-style P-section o-ring gasket. Too bad it’s not used by everyone outside of OE.
This looks pretty **** good. Id imagine if the 99@25 is correct...after some loading it may improve slightly? Even then its beyond sufficient for most cases.
Id 100% would run one if I had my old commutes. It will take me at least 4-5 years to hit 20k these days on my daily driver. Ill stick with the normal PG EL variants for now at $5.50~ a can.
Id 100% would run one if I had my old commutes. It will take me at least 4-5 years to hit 20k these days on my daily driver. Ill stick with the normal PG EL variants for now at $5.50~ a can.
Oil filters typically lose some efficiency as they load up because with more loading they start shedding more debris that was already captured in the media. The big Ascent ISO testing thread shows this phenomena. The ISO 4548-12 efficiency is a measure of the average efficiency from new to nearly fully loaded media, so it takes the debris shedding factor in to account. What this tells you is that an oil filter with a higher ISO 4548-12 efficiency rating doesn't lose as much efficiency as it loads up, because it sheds less captured debris from the media.
Good info! Still its nice to see a wire backed media filter slated for long term use.
A full synthetic media with a backing (it's a nylon mesh, not wire on the Carquest EP) that's 99% @ 25u ISO efficiency is still really good, especially for a filter rated up to 20K miles of use. That means it if gets really loaded, it's still going to retain that claimed efficiency.
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- Joined
- Aug 26, 2025
- Messages
- 19
I swung by my go-to Advance Auto Parts today and, wouldn't you know it, they had the new Carquest EP filter on the shelf. I spotted the part number P84712 and right away, I noticed it felt different in my hands compared to the usual filters. Being the curious type, I grabbed it and decided to pick it up for my next oil change on my Subaru. As I was checking it out, I couldn't shake the feeling that it seemed a bit shorter than I remembered. So, I popped the hood and compared it to the Mobil 108-A (the one from Vietnam). Sure enough, the Mobil 108-A was taller. I guess Carquest managed to cram a lot into that smaller canister. Anyone else notice this?
The Carquest EP being a full synthetic media probably doesn't need as much media area to do the job. The OG Ultra was the same way compared to the new non-synthetic media version - the OG Ultra in the same model had less media area than the new Ultra in the same filter model. The Carquest EP could also have some pretty close pleat spacing to help get the media area up in a smaller can.
This OE= pro filter from Partsource Canada, appears to be very similar. On sale at the moment for $6 U.S. maybe less.
I see a couple of differences, media is synthetic blend and the base plate seal has a square section. Made in Vietnam. Looks good.
I see a couple of differences, media is synthetic blend and the base plate seal has a square section. Made in Vietnam. Looks good.
Yeah, those Pro Series OE+ fall under the PGI portfolio.
There’s some duplicates and some missing but here is the PGI brand portfolio. Some may not be the extended life version.
https://afifilter.com.vn/doi-tac/
https://afifilter.com.vn/doi-tac/
The Honda filters for S2000 have it listed on filter and manual that they want 7/8 turn after gasket contact. They have numbers 1-7 around it and the filter cap has a cutout (almost 1/2) also for reference. They want the metal touching for the added torque for the high RPM vibration. It's hard to get it that tight and even harder to get it off after 5k miles.It's about clarifying what actually happens vs what's being imagined and not going to happen. I never said or even remotely eluded to that if the filter could be turned another 1 turn AFTER the can edge hit the mount base that it would cause a 0.060" groove in the seat. For starters, the filter can would destroy itself by crumpling if you tried to turn the filter 1 more turn after the can contacted the seat. Besides, who in their right mind would even do such a ludicrous thing. Do you even have any concept of how much more torque it would take to even turn the filter another 1/4 turn after the can hit the seat, if it could be done without damaging the thin can.
How much do you really think the heavy thick base plate is going to bend when the filter might be able to be turned maybe 5-10 degrees after the can hits the filter seat? You have a misconception of what the force and the resulting bending would be, even if the filter was turned a hair more after the can hits the seat. There would be no where near any significant force to bend the base plate in that case.
Apparently you never looked close enough to know since you say "I don't think" ... which means you really don't know for sure. I showed a photo of mine years ago ... probably back when you were 5 usernames ago.
Sure the "torque stop" is a torque limiter because it tells the installer to stop torquing when the filter abruptly stops turning. And it certainly is also "an install technique". The 3/4 turn instruction on the Toyota filter is going to make the filter real close if not actually making the can contact the seat - it depends on when the installer thinks the P-gasket first hits the filter mount, which can vary between people. Toyota did NOT say to turn the filter 7/8 turn or 1 turn after the O-ring first makes contact because it would cause too much torque on the filter after the can hit the seat - because it will hit around 3/4 turn. If the can hits the seat around 3/4 turn, then it certainly couldn't be turned to 1 turn anyway. As mentioned before, a lot of the "torque stop"type filters, and oil filters with a P-gasket I've seen actually have a torque spec on the filter can. Once the can hits the mount seat, the torque will be achieve with barely any more rotation of the filter. That ensures it's not over torqued, and that it doesn't loosen during use.
Yes, with a P-gasket the can needs to be touching the filter mount to keep the filter tightly mounted. I can see the mark on the rim just outside the OD of the P-gasket where the can was contacting the filter seat.
Some P-gasket filter installation instructions call out a torque, which will make the can touch the filter seat and ensures the filter stays tight. This is out of a Yamaha XSR900 manual. Calling out a torque is actually the best way since it's a very repeatable installation method.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2022
- Messages
- 405
Went by my local AAP for brakes yesterday and took a look at these filters. The bigger filters, like the 51515 size, have louvers instead of holes. That was interesting to see. The louvers were huge! Wix could never.
