About the supposed mechanical issues with the engine? Yes.
New car - 2023 Mazda 3 2.5, same old questions.
- Thread starter Bitter
- Start date
It’s funny that you trigger off something that’s easily disproven. Use whatever you want, but don’t perpetuate something that’s disproven in the owner’s manuals.
There’s zero difference in the engines that have VCM or other technologies that call for Xw20 in the US and those same engines overseas that allow for say Xw40 or Xw50. There are several OMs that have wording similar to “in high temperatures or sustained high-speed operation, a heavier grade may be required for sufficient engine protection.”
So this wasn’t a knock on 5w20s; I’ve run it in my older Fords. I’ve got 5w20 from HPL in my 2.0 Mazda-powered Transit Connect. But I’d also run an Xw30 in it without thinking anything untoward would happen.
And yes, the 14610 size is fine if you’ve got clearance and the can doesn’t hang down into the path of road debris. Hope you enjoy your new ride, I always liked the “Zoom Zoom” commercials.
On the newer Mazda's like mine the only limiting thing can you get the filter under the belly pan!It’s funny that you trigger off something that’s easily disproven. Use whatever you want, but don’t perpetuate something that’s disproven in the owner’s manuals.
There’s zero difference in the engines that have VCM or other technologies that call for Xw20 in the US and those same engines overseas that allow for say Xw40 or Xw50. There are several OMs that have wording similar to “in high temperatures or sustained high-speed operation, a heavier grade may be required for sufficient engine protection.”
So this wasn’t a knock on 5w20s; I’ve run it in my older Fords. I’ve got 5w20 from HPL in my 2.0 Mazda-powered Transit Connect. But I’d also run an Xw30 in it without thinking anything untoward would happen.
And yes, the 14610 size is fine if you’ve got clearance and the can doesn’t hang down into the path of road debris. Hope you enjoy your new ride, I always liked the “Zoom Zoom” commercials.
You say you are going to stick with 0-20 oil for warranty purposes but are going to use some other filter. If you are worried about warranty, why not use Mazda filters??I finally got my new 2023 Mazda 3 2.5 base model after a 6 month production backlog. I've put about 350 miles on it and was planning on changing the factory fill at 1000 miles because no particular reason other than I'm 'old school' and worry about break-in/production debris in my new engine. I realize I'm probably just throwing away a perfectly good oil filter and oil but it's a cheap price for a little peace of mind.
According to Mazda 0W-20 for US and 5W-30 for the rest of the world, I'll stick with 0W-20 since it's got cylinder deactivation which relies on oil pressure to run that system and likely is tuned for the expected properties of 0W-20 oil.
My first question comes in at which filter to run. The OEM filter is equivalent to a Purolator 14612 size (68x65) but there's a 14610 size (68x85) that's the same gasket diameter, same thread, same bypass pressure, just a taller filter by 20mm. Filter sits behind the engine at a downward angle so I'm not concerned about it being low hanging fruit, if I hit the filter on something then I've also smashed the car bad enough that a dented filter is the least of my worries.
Is there any reason NOT to run the larger filter? They're the same price. I don't gain any significant oil volume. I get a little bit more filter area. Warranty might be at risk if I had an engine issue crop up?
2nd question, this is my first vehicle with DI. I haven't seen much about Mazda having fuel dilution issues or carbon build up issues with their PY-VPS 2.5 SkyActiv G engine. Other than drive it and change the oil every 5K miles or so is there anything I should be aware of or do differently or keep in mind not to do? I already know that generally frequent short cold trips and DI are not great and lead to fuel dilution, I see this on DI cars owned by older people at work often enough so we just do shorter OCI's on those vehicles. My typical driving schedule should be fine to avoid that, a good dose of highway and a little stop and go on. Should I get an aftermarket catch can to further reduce the risk of carbon build up or is that a myth that those help with that? I'm planning to keep the vehicle past 100,000 miles.
The outgoing Mazda 626 (FS-DE) clocked up to 208K and that engine runs like a tappy top with strong cross hatch still on the cylinder walls. It got 0W/5W/10W-30 Sythetic from Valvoline or Mobil and a PureOne filter every 5-7K miles for the past 120,000 miles. I'm hoping the new car can do the same long run for durability.
For your first OCI use a Mazda filter and Mazda oil. After that, use whatever you want, it really won't matter...
Curious minds would like to know why Mazda filter and oil on the first change but it really won't matter after that? My first change was to Mobil 1 EP and my second to Quaker State. Didn't seem to make a difference. The UOA I took after the first change came in right as I expected. I fact the only reason I took one I wanted to see if I was having a fuel dilution issue.
It was a stupid answer to a stupid question. Frankly, any oil or filter will be just fine. Even for the first OCI.
My vehicles are all out of warranty now. I use what I want to use.
Welcome. I, too, have the same car/engine albeit with the 6 speed manual. I also work for Mazda so I’m obviously a big fan. The naturally aspirated 2.5 Skyactiv is a solid engine and doesn’t too picky about oil. It’s been out for a decades and aside from the CX-90 and Miata it’s run in every vehicle we sell - 3, (recently discontinued) 6, CX-30, CX5, and CX-50. The 5W30 is recommended (or spec’ed - depending on how you read it) for the same engine with the Turbo as it is pretty power dense in the torque department and a bit of a fuel diluter. I just looked through the owners manual on my ‘24 Mazda 3 and I don’t see any notation of the rest of the world using 5W30 on the non-turbo engine. Our new CX-90 does, however, make that explicit - 0W20 for US/Canada and 5W30 everywhere else.
Probably like you, I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time overthinking the oil I run in this engine that most of Joe Q Public runs until the OLM has been at zero for months. If I recall from my reading of the owners manual, it only mentions using an API certified oil, no specifics on SL, SM, SN, SP….etc. The Mazda branded “Moly Oil” in 0W20 is only rated as GF5 if that tells you anything. I’ll have around 500 miles on my car when I had the factory refill drained and refill with Idenitsu and an OEM filter. I bought a virtual in warranty lifetime supply of it earlier this past week at a bargain, and with me being an employee labor and a new OEM filter is less than what I pay for lunch almost anywhere. YMMV, of course.
Probably like you, I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time overthinking the oil I run in this engine that most of Joe Q Public runs until the OLM has been at zero for months. If I recall from my reading of the owners manual, it only mentions using an API certified oil, no specifics on SL, SM, SN, SP….etc. The Mazda branded “Moly Oil” in 0W20 is only rated as GF5 if that tells you anything. I’ll have around 500 miles on my car when I had the factory refill drained and refill with Idenitsu and an OEM filter. I bought a virtual in warranty lifetime supply of it earlier this past week at a bargain, and with me being an employee labor and a new OEM filter is less than what I pay for lunch almost anywhere. YMMV, of course.
We just got a 2024 Mazda CX-5 a week ago. Not even in the parts catalogs yet, so I'm not sure what filter even goes on it. It's not a turbo. SHould be same filter as the 2023 non turbo, right? I don't think the engines changed?
Years ago, Jeff Jetter of Honda R&D mentioned something about viscosity and their engines. I forget exactly what he said but it had to do with using grades that are higher and have negative implications on operation. It is interesting though how in many parts of the world multiple viscosities can be used in certain engines per owner's manual. I don't know enough about to have an opinion one way or another.
Last edited:
The only thing that changed was body color fenders/lower cladding now abd packaging changes. ‘24s have the I-stop built in but thankfully a button disables that. 0W20 recommended for non-turbo, 5W30 for turbo.
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2023
- Messages
- 981
The Mazda manual says you can use 0w20 or 5w30. They aren’t really that different, after all. 5w30 is the same thickness as 0w20 is when it’s not quite up to temp. You can also safely use a 0w30, which I like personally.
With my Mazda 2.5 I used PUP 0w20 and 5w30 with good UOA results. Really any full synthetic in either grade will be fine. I prefer the 30 weights and run HPL and Amsoil 0w30 year round in vehicles that call for 20 weight in North America. They offer great cold performance and better HTHS than 0w20. They’re also slightly thinner than most 5w30.
I would use the proper speced filter and would not upsize. Purolator Boss, Mobil 1, standard Wix, or Fram Endurance.
With my Mazda 2.5 I used PUP 0w20 and 5w30 with good UOA results. Really any full synthetic in either grade will be fine. I prefer the 30 weights and run HPL and Amsoil 0w30 year round in vehicles that call for 20 weight in North America. They offer great cold performance and better HTHS than 0w20. They’re also slightly thinner than most 5w30.
I would use the proper speced filter and would not upsize. Purolator Boss, Mobil 1, standard Wix, or Fram Endurance.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2022
- Messages
- 527
Just use the proper size oil filter and 5w30 already!
