Late last summer I bought a CC LT1554 with 220hrs and a broken drive belt. I replaced the belt with a generic kevlar belt and cut my lawn. Everything seemed ok but I expected it to have a bit more speed. On the second cutting the drivebelt came to a sudden smoky end. Nothing but hot shreds remained. I've just put another (different mfg) belt on and took it for a ride around the yard with no cutting deck. It still seems slower than expected and the belt was really hot. I doubt its slipping but I'm wondering if something in the hydro is bad. The gear oil has never been changed.
Need advise Cub Cadet hydro
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is the front bracket upside down?
how much did u pay for it?
how much did u pay for it?
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How hot is the trans? If its dragging enough to break belts with the correct tension then its got to be smoking hot...
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
is the front bracket upside down?
What front bracket?
is the front bracket upside down?
What front bracket?
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
How hot is the trans? If its dragging enough to break belts with the correct tension then its got to be smoking hot...
At the time of my brief test ride, the belt was hot enough that you could touch it but wouldn't hold it. The trans warm, not hot.
How hot is the trans? If its dragging enough to break belts with the correct tension then its got to be smoking hot...
At the time of my brief test ride, the belt was hot enough that you could touch it but wouldn't hold it. The trans warm, not hot.
Originally Posted By: RRich
Late last summer I bought a CC LT1554 with 220hrs and a broken drive belt. I replaced the belt with a generic kevlar belt and cut my lawn. Everything seemed ok but I expected it to have a bit more speed. On the second cutting the drivebelt came to a sudden smoky end. Nothing but hot shreds remained. I've just put another (different mfg) belt on and took it for a ride around the yard with no cutting deck. It still seems slower than expected and the belt was really hot. I doubt its slipping but I'm wondering if something in the hydro is bad. The gear oil has never been changed.
I have an SLT1554 and am running a non-Kevlar aftermarket belt for the past 75 hours with zero problems. The whole system by its nature is slow, like walking speed slow, even when new, but you may have more problems.
How did you replace the belt, did you cut the sheet metal tabs or remove the engine?
In your situation I suspect the tension pulley isn't doing its job. Make sure it's there, has enough spring tension, and it and all other pulleys are aligned, greased, and their bearings are good.
The only reason MTD/CC went to Kevlar is they made the belt so hard to change and they didn't want them failing under warranty. Kevlar isn't so much a selling point as just a way to save themselves from dealer warranty charge-backs.
MTD seemed to go out of their way to make sure it was hard to change by forming sheet metal around the pulley, and pressing on the drive pulley. The FSM has a simple step that says "remove the drive pulley" or somesuch which is completely bogus as it is pressed on. The PTO clutch comes off easily with any impact wrench tool. The fact they went to more expensive Kevlar when it otherwise wasn't required is an admission of bad design guilt.
Late last summer I bought a CC LT1554 with 220hrs and a broken drive belt. I replaced the belt with a generic kevlar belt and cut my lawn. Everything seemed ok but I expected it to have a bit more speed. On the second cutting the drivebelt came to a sudden smoky end. Nothing but hot shreds remained. I've just put another (different mfg) belt on and took it for a ride around the yard with no cutting deck. It still seems slower than expected and the belt was really hot. I doubt its slipping but I'm wondering if something in the hydro is bad. The gear oil has never been changed.
I have an SLT1554 and am running a non-Kevlar aftermarket belt for the past 75 hours with zero problems. The whole system by its nature is slow, like walking speed slow, even when new, but you may have more problems.
How did you replace the belt, did you cut the sheet metal tabs or remove the engine?
In your situation I suspect the tension pulley isn't doing its job. Make sure it's there, has enough spring tension, and it and all other pulleys are aligned, greased, and their bearings are good.
The only reason MTD/CC went to Kevlar is they made the belt so hard to change and they didn't want them failing under warranty. Kevlar isn't so much a selling point as just a way to save themselves from dealer warranty charge-backs.
MTD seemed to go out of their way to make sure it was hard to change by forming sheet metal around the pulley, and pressing on the drive pulley. The FSM has a simple step that says "remove the drive pulley" or somesuch which is completely bogus as it is pressed on. The PTO clutch comes off easily with any impact wrench tool. The fact they went to more expensive Kevlar when it otherwise wasn't required is an admission of bad design guilt.
HangFire, I bent the tabs up since I was unable to remove the pulley.
Since I suspected belt slippage when the belt failed last summer, I installed a stronger spring on the tensioner. Good to know that this model is not very fast. That's what really concerned me. I have a CC SLTX1050 at my other house that is much faster than this LT1554. How many hrs on yours? Have you changed the trans fluid?
Since I suspected belt slippage when the belt failed last summer, I installed a stronger spring on the tensioner. Good to know that this model is not very fast. That's what really concerned me. I have a CC SLTX1050 at my other house that is much faster than this LT1554. How many hrs on yours? Have you changed the trans fluid?
RRich,
That stronger spring might be the problem. Belts are designed to slip a little as a safety valve. Also the belt does jump around a little, so check those bent tabs and see if they've caught and cut the new belt. I ground mine off altogether.
Mine has... maybe ~ 275 hours, Kevlar belt died right around 200 but out of warranty calendar-wise.
I find the slow speed irksome, but the deck width helps make up for the time lost. If I knew how slow it really was, I would have passed and bought something else. It's been reliable, the only things I've replaced besides oil & filters and blades is the drive belt, deck belt, and headlight bulb holders. The plastic bulb holder gets brittle over time and they fall apart, but are cheap to replace.
I haven't changed the oil on the hydro and may never. I've had hydro's last 25 years and still going strong unserviced while the rest of the mower rusted apart around them.
That stronger spring might be the problem. Belts are designed to slip a little as a safety valve. Also the belt does jump around a little, so check those bent tabs and see if they've caught and cut the new belt. I ground mine off altogether.
Mine has... maybe ~ 275 hours, Kevlar belt died right around 200 but out of warranty calendar-wise.
I find the slow speed irksome, but the deck width helps make up for the time lost. If I knew how slow it really was, I would have passed and bought something else. It's been reliable, the only things I've replaced besides oil & filters and blades is the drive belt, deck belt, and headlight bulb holders. The plastic bulb holder gets brittle over time and they fall apart, but are cheap to replace.
I haven't changed the oil on the hydro and may never. I've had hydro's last 25 years and still going strong unserviced while the rest of the mower rusted apart around them.
The belt tension now feels about the way I would adjust a V belt on a car. The original spring seemed pretty weak.
I was worried the slow speed was caused by a clogged filter screen in the hydro which would also put extra load on the belt. I have an extra jug of Mobil 1 15w-50 so I will change it sometime.
One of the headlite bulb holders was broken so I removed the harness since I don't cut in the dark. Hopefully the charging system will compensate and not overcharge the battery.
I guess for now I'll do some more test runs before reinstalling the cutting deck.
I was worried the slow speed was caused by a clogged filter screen in the hydro which would also put extra load on the belt. I have an extra jug of Mobil 1 15w-50 so I will change it sometime.
One of the headlite bulb holders was broken so I removed the harness since I don't cut in the dark. Hopefully the charging system will compensate and not overcharge the battery.
I guess for now I'll do some more test runs before reinstalling the cutting deck.
Originally Posted By: RRich
but I expected it to have a bit more speed.
Compared to many other lawn tractors, the top speed is extremely slow. The top speed of the LT1554 is only about 5 MPH. The John Deere 325 that I used to have had a top speed of 7 MPH. Even my old 210 does almost 5 MPH in third gear. So yes, that 5 MPH is going to feel extremely slow-it's about the same as someone who is walking briskly.
but I expected it to have a bit more speed.
Compared to many other lawn tractors, the top speed is extremely slow. The top speed of the LT1554 is only about 5 MPH. The John Deere 325 that I used to have had a top speed of 7 MPH. Even my old 210 does almost 5 MPH in third gear. So yes, that 5 MPH is going to feel extremely slow-it's about the same as someone who is walking briskly.
For racing, I think a CRAFTSMAN is the fastest. 
)
)Originally Posted By: Eddie
For racing, I think a CRAFTSMAN is the fastest.)
My old craftsman HST beater does have a scary top speed, I don't have many areas smooth and open enough to use it though, just trimming along the driveway I'll go a little ways past the "mowing" notch and into the "road" range.
For racing, I think a CRAFTSMAN is the fastest.
)My old craftsman HST beater does have a scary top speed, I don't have many areas smooth and open enough to use it though, just trimming along the driveway I'll go a little ways past the "mowing" notch and into the "road" range.
My advice, should have bought a John Deere!
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