The obvious answer to avoiding all wear and tear, is just have the bike be a static art display.
Motorcycle Engine - First start after oil change question?
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Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Trav
Easy, just hit the engine kill switch then hit the starter.
Modern bikes will not crank over the engine if the kill switch is activate.
That I didn't know, what year did that happen? That sort of removes a useful tool or at least on I used often.
I am not sure when it started- my 1988 Suzuki Katana 1100 behaved this way. All my later bikes also do this, but I cannot recall on my pre-1988 bikes. My current bike has EFI and ABS, the ignition lock has brains to defeat hot wiring, and the plugs are buried pretty deep. For an oil change, its just asking for trouble to disconnect or disable anything ignition related. Almost all Japanese inline-fours have the filter mounted horizontally, so prefilling the filter is impractical. Plenty of owners have over 100k miles, and some over 200k miles on that model, so I guess this is a non-problem.
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Trav
Easy, just hit the engine kill switch then hit the starter.
Modern bikes will not crank over the engine if the kill switch is activate.
That I didn't know, what year did that happen? That sort of removes a useful tool or at least on I used often.
I am not sure when it started- my 1988 Suzuki Katana 1100 behaved this way. All my later bikes also do this, but I cannot recall on my pre-1988 bikes. My current bike has EFI and ABS, the ignition lock has brains to defeat hot wiring, and the plugs are buried pretty deep. For an oil change, its just asking for trouble to disconnect or disable anything ignition related. Almost all Japanese inline-fours have the filter mounted horizontally, so prefilling the filter is impractical. Plenty of owners have over 100k miles, and some over 200k miles on that model, so I guess this is a non-problem.
My bikes were newer than that and would crank with the kill switch off so maybe its different between brands. Its nice to do a compression test without pulling fuses, I wasn't thinking so much about an oil change.
Originally Posted by Trav
My bikes were newer than that and would crank with the kill switch off so maybe its different between brands. Its nice to do a compression test without pulling fuses, I wasn't thinking so much about an oil change.
I think on my latest Yamaha, the only way to spin the engine in no-start mode is with a factory diagnostic tool. There might be some aftermarket, high end diag tools that can also do it. There is a jumper I can use to exercise the ABS.
My bikes were newer than that and would crank with the kill switch off so maybe its different between brands. Its nice to do a compression test without pulling fuses, I wasn't thinking so much about an oil change.
I think on my latest Yamaha, the only way to spin the engine in no-start mode is with a factory diagnostic tool. There might be some aftermarket, high end diag tools that can also do it. There is a jumper I can use to exercise the ABS.
Thinking about this all my bikes over the last 35 years have been Euro spec, they might be different.
Man, I hate the dry start, those few seconds of clanking lifters or valves or whatever it is. Sometimes I wonder if changing oil to often is worse then changing it less often because of that.
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both leaving dirty oil in longer on OCIs and 1st start up cranks are both bad, but how can you avoid it? to me I would change out the dirty oil in shorter OCIs and live with the first start-up dry cranks , I think having dirty oil in there is the worst of the two
Dirty oil? It may be dark, but it isn't harmful "dirty" unless the filter is shot. A full crankcase of 5,000 mile oil and a regular start-up when going for a ride is better than any "1st start up cranks" if there is legitimately no oil flow for whatever brief period of time after an oil change.
Reality, there is plenty of residual oil in/on the valvetrain, etc after the few minutes it takes to do an oil change that a few quick stabs at the starter, but without firing the bike, will get oil where it needs to go. That's the way I look at it, ymmv.
Reality, there is plenty of residual oil in/on the valvetrain, etc after the few minutes it takes to do an oil change that a few quick stabs at the starter, but without firing the bike, will get oil where it needs to go. That's the way I look at it, ymmv.
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