Most annoying vehicle to change oil?

1992 Lumina, 3.1L V6. The oil in the filter drains out down the side of the engine, onto a wire harness, and onto the engine cradle. Oil everywhere. A foil "oil trough" doesn't necessarily help matters.
 
Old Hondas with the oil filter way back in between the engine and firewall.

My old Toyotas, did have the oil filter under the exhaust manifold. Some welding gloves solved that problem for me. Or wait about an hour or 2 to drain, and then the exhaust manifold is cool enough to get to the oil filter
 
Any 2019+ Nissan FWD vehicle. 20+ push pins to get to filter and plug.
Not all of them, 2019 Murano only needs 3 pins to be removed to move the part of the cover out of the way to access the plug and filter, same for the Maxima.
 
For me it it was two. Grandmother had a second gen Jeep Liberty 3.7 V6. The filter was crammed in the front of the engine and you almost had to dislocate your arm and wrist to get to it. Also took a can of brake clean spraying and praying you got all the oil residue off.

Also had a 2004 Nissan Frontier 2.4 I4 that you had to access the filter through the passenger wheel well. That one wasn't very nice either.
 
On my Coachmen motorhome with the Ford F53 V10 chassis, the stream of oil coming from the pan perfectly hit the front axle and went in multiple directions. This was all on Ford, and not anything that Coachmen had modified.
 
I borderline hated changing the oil on my 17 Tundra when i had it. Pain in the butt.Took more time to removed parts than to change the oil .
 
Hands down my friend's Suzuki Grand Vitara with the 2.4l engine. The filter is hidden well under the hot AF exhaust manifold with almost no access for tools as there are a myriad of steering joints and hoses in your way.. Twice i attempted to change the oil in that thing.. Twice i ended up changing the oil Honda style (only the oil, that is..)..
 
For me it's my 2017 Nissan Titan because the filter is completely hidden by the plastic splash shield and requires removing seven bolts and sliding the shield out from under the vehicle to access the filter. And to add insult to injury it drains directly onto the sway bar.

What's yours?
My cavalier isn't the greatest. For some reason it's packaged so tight that it's impossible to remove the oil filter from the bottom as the cv joint completely blocks it. You have to reach down behind the hot engine to remove it.
 
Folks complain about how many plastic coolant fittings are on a modern German (i.e., Audi, in this case) engine, but at least they got the oil filter location right:

81226cec-a042-4eef-ace2-f55c6a86c4f3.jpg


Remove the engine cover, and you just need a 32 mm 6-pt socket. Oh, and when using an oil extractor, and oil and filter change for a BITOG DIYer will require about 20 minutes.

On the flip side, I once offered to change my sister's oil & filter on her '84 Prelude back during my college days in the late 80s. Yup, it's on the back of the block, below the intake manifold and above the cat. That one was probably the most annoying vehicle to do this type of maintenance.
 
Folks complain about how many plastic coolant fittings are on a modern German (i.e., Audi, in this case) engine, but at least they got the oil filter location right:

81226cec-a042-4eef-ace2-f55c6a86c4f3.jpg


Remove the engine cover, and you just need a 32 mm 6-pt socket. Oh, and when using an oil extractor, and oil and filter change for a BITOG DIYer will require about 20 minutes.

On the flip side, I once offered to change my sister's oil & filter on her '84 Prelude back during my college days in the late 80s. Yup, it's on the back of the block, below the intake manifold and above the cat. That one was probably the most annoying vehicle to do this type of maintenance.
Give it a couple years and the engine cover will need a 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, Torx, XZN and some proprietary Audi tool to remove. Then the filter cap will need a 15-point 31mm ;)

NOW, in fairness GM annoyed me on the GMT900 LMM because to pull the RF inner fender you needed 8mm, 10mm and TWO different styles of plastic push clips. You need to do this to change the fuel filter. So that's four different kinds of fasteners when they could have ALL been the same -- or at least make all the machine screws the same and all the plastics the same.

This was remedied with an aftermarket "door" in the inner fender that DOES use only ONE style of push pins for retention. What a concept.
 
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