Modifying a vehicle that has a lot of age with low mileage.

You can’t reverse damage by using a magic oil. I put fresh Mobil 1 0w-40 into classics and my modern cars too. It’s as close to a one size fits all as there is.

If you are really concerned about bearing condition or damage then drop the pan and look at a main and rod bearing. That would take you a gals day at most.

Z
I forgot we also pulled a couple caps off mine and they were still within spec, but this engine also was certainly not low miles. If the oil was changed regularly on this one and not loaded up with fuel and moisture then it should be fine.
Cooling system is probably more likely to need attention. Mine leaked from just about every freeze plug in the block and head, so we had to replace them also.
Not the same engine I know, but it was sitting for a long time.
 
That is incorrect. The engine has to come up for the oil pan to be removed on these cars. Not only that but I don't "whip in and out" of my vehicle when I do something. I take my time, prep the body and ensure no incidental damage occurs.
 
This is a very nice 350 car. It has been meticulously maintained by a wealthy previous owner. I have no idea why he decided to get rid of it but I am glad he did. Yes, I have lot of pictures and videos of the new purchase. :) Its absolutely show room beautiful.

I have a climate controlled garage space that is secure where the car is going to be kept. I do not intend on driving it a lot, just here and there to the bigger shows and maybe a cars and coffee here and there. Plans are in the works to install Vortec small port heads that have been worked by Brzezenski Racing Products as well as a SDPC ported aluminum TPI intake base manifold with large tube runners and port matched plenum. Camshaft will be a Lingenfelter 219 or TPIS roller cam. I am not aiming to set the world on fire but instead make a very nice running reliable car that is a pleasure to drive. It will probably make around 385hp to the crank and still drive like a normal IROC.

Excuse the mess. I just put 17" wheels on it and a double din radio in it with Focal K2 components. The shifter knob was still off and center console not together when these were taken.

That's very nice. When I was a kid my parents had a pair of IROC's. Dad's was red just like yours and Mom's was blue. If I recall correctly the red one was a 350 car and the blue had the 305. Was the coolest cars they had in their whole lives (so far). haha
 
That's very nice. When I was a kid my parents had a pair of IROC's. Dad's was red just like yours and Mom's was blue. If I recall correctly the red one was a 350 car and the blue had the 305. Was the coolest cars they had in their whole lives (so far). haha
My mom was a huge Camaro girl when I was growing up in the 80's. She had two 85's and a 90. I am partial to them for this reason.
 
I wouldn't worry about modifying it causing issues. It's very low miles for the year but it's not like it hasn't been driven here and there. I especially wouldn't think bearings would be an issue at this point either. Depending how deep you're going to go into the engine with mods and while replacing seals, you should be able to get a pretty good look at the state of the internals in the process.

Sweet car! My first car was a 1991 RS with the good old 3.1L. 😂 I always planned on swapping it, but I only kept it 2 years. I wish I still had it.
 
You can’t reverse damage by using a magic oil. I put fresh Mobil 1 0w-40 into classics and my modern cars too. It’s as close to a one size fits all as there is.

If you are really concerned about bearing condition or damage then drop the pan and look at a main and rod bearing. That would take you a half day at most.

Z
After you pull the engine out to get the pan off.
 
That silver Z-28 is sweet - don’t see many in original condition anymore! Nice!
Bottom ends of 350’s are tough - somewhere I have an article on a guy who races a late 80’s Firebird, did a whole bunch of top-end work to it, hundreds of quarter mile passes, and the bottom end is fine…it was in ‘High Performance Pontiac’s’ years ago.
 
Earlier you said you use M1 for your classics? Are you not using Zinc additives? Just curious.
No, no additives.

The M-1 0w-40 F/S and the M-1 15-50 both have elevated levels of zinc and phosphorus. I’ve been using both of them in brand new engine builds and in older engines that have been using some brand x dino oil. Never any issues.

I couldn’t tell you how many cars, as I used those products in the customers cars as well as my own.



Z
 
Im probably going to stick with M1. I see Pennzoil was on here with a platinum mixture, have they finally gotten a good oil going again? I remember in the 90's and 00's Penn vehicles had enormous amounts of sludge but the customers werent taking good care of their vehicles either...
 
Im probably going to stick with M1. I see Pennzoil was on here with a platinum mixture, have they finally gotten a good oil going again? I remember in the 90's and 00's Penn vehicles had enormous amounts of sludge but the customers werent taking good care of their vehicles either...
Platinum is just a brand name not a mixture. Pennzoil has made good oil since the 90s. Sludge being causes by certain brands was a myth, generated from oil in the 70s and prior just not being as good in general.
I would still go with the m1 0w40 fs (European formula) in these just because it's more suited to hard use.
 
I also see some fram users on this site. From what I can tell in the field, Fram would be the last filter I would use. OEM if possible followed by Wix. Nothing else unless you want to pay for a K&N.
 
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