Mobil 1 advanced vs Pennzoil ultra platinum which cleans best!
- Thread starter ziggy
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4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Those mentioned here are called motor oils - this is engine cleaner
Keeping things clean vs cleaning. Ideally you want both. Many oils have great oxidation resistance, not enough solvency to clean more stubborn carbon deposits. Oils using more ester/ANs can clean. But it gets complicated and murky. Red Line is a PAO/POE NPG Ester with an oxidation value of ranging from 90-130. How polar depends on the chain length. The OH group is at the end of the chain. Longer chains, fewer OH groups per molar volume. Would Red Line do as well on the Seq IIIH as Mobil 1? (My guess is no) Would the high moly and high metallic additives negate the effectiveness of the high esters? What good is that ester content if the AO's and base oil blend can't resist oxidation as well as Mobil 1? It always comes back around to testing, otherwise you're guessing. I was surprised how poorly Red Line did on the TEOST test as it barely passed it (likely due to the moly).
Many look at oxidation values above 30 for some guesstimate, although that excludes oils using ANs. Red Line is a PAO/POE NPG ester with oxidation values ranging from 90-130. HPL's SAE30 EC has an oxidation value of 113. Valvoline Restore is 110. Amsoil SS is in the 40-60 range. That solvency is great, but again, it's just one aspect of the entire formulation.
I would lean towards thinking that oils containing more of the polar base oils would keep engines cleaner, but only if the entire formulation is sound.
Many look at oxidation values above 30 for some guesstimate, although that excludes oils using ANs. Red Line is a PAO/POE NPG ester with oxidation values ranging from 90-130. HPL's SAE30 EC has an oxidation value of 113. Valvoline Restore is 110. Amsoil SS is in the 40-60 range. That solvency is great, but again, it's just one aspect of the entire formulation.
I would lean towards thinking that oils containing more of the polar base oils would keep engines cleaner, but only if the entire formulation is sound.
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Welcome to BITOG.
I once started a thread here about 0w40 oil.
Being brand new to the forum, was unaware that was a controversial issue.
I'm now aware, and have my asbestos suit ready if I ever start a new oil thread lol
He has been a member here for 15 years.
HPL, all others bring data. Nuff’ said
HPL proof is here.
HPL proof is here.
How about seafoam in crankcase? I'm 4.5 quarts oil, seafoam is 1 oz per quart. 5 ozs seafoam...clean up rings and in-between cylinder? Add it last 400 miles before oil change
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Hello OP,
You can find some answers to your questions if you try Google:
PUP cleaning, BITOG
M1 cleaning, BITOG
SEAFOAM, BITOG
Etc..
You can find some answers to your questions if you try Google:
PUP cleaning, BITOG
M1 cleaning, BITOG
SEAFOAM, BITOG
Etc..
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2,847
Do I think seafoam will will clean up the rings if added to the crankcase? No. Maybe it can, maybe it will, my opinion is it won’t.
I’d check out some of the YouTube videos on freeing up piston rings/piston soaks. I will tell it’s very hard to free up stuck piston rings, but there’s some good videos on the subject.
The two solvents in Seafoam are isopropyl alcohol and light naphtha which have boiling points of 179°F and 194°F respectively. The piston skirt, rings, and cylinder wall range from 325-500°F. (Hence Noack test is done at 482°F (250°)) Most esters have boiling points of 550-700°F which allows them to hold their ground in that hot environment and do their job.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Haaaahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!
Could be one of my best.
I think both will do really well. This is just my 2 cent anecdotal experience:
My personal experience is this: All of my engines with which I've seen under the valve covers after years of running mostly Mobil 1 have been squeaky clean....looked like new. VERY little varnish, just shiny silver metal. This includes a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 that we bought used. It ran on bulk dino oil up to about 104k miles, IIRC, and looked pretty varnished and gunky with mild sludge under the valve cover. After about 30k and 5 or 6 oil changes with Mobil 1 High Mileage and EP 5w30, it looked much cleaner with no mild sludge and much of the varnish removed. But none of my engines running Mobil 1 from the start have ever looked like they needed a cleanup. They all have looked great.
My 2008 Wrangler has had mostly Mobil 1 with a few runs of Pennzoil Platinum or Valvoline Advanced. It has 186k on it now. Valve cover gaskets were replaced a short time ago and the tech at the Jeep dealer went out of his way to tell me how the valve train was the cleanest he's seen with that kind of mileage. That also bodes well for M1. But again, it was run on it since new.
I would expect Pennzoil Platinum to do the same thing. Probably any high quality big brand synthetic will do a good job with that.
The cleanest valve train photos I've seen on BITOG were run with Red Line. But that stuff ain't cheap.
Maybe if OP is wanting a pretty good cleanup, Red Line would be a good choice. But Mobil 1 has done a good job of this for me.
I haven't looked under the valve cover on my new to me 2007 Corvette, but I'm running Mobil 1 EP for 3k on the first change (and running it pretty hard) as a clean-up run. It may not need it. It may have been run on good oil from the start, maybe even nothing but Mobil 1. Next OCI will be switched to Mobil 1 Euro 0w40.
My personal experience is this: All of my engines with which I've seen under the valve covers after years of running mostly Mobil 1 have been squeaky clean....looked like new. VERY little varnish, just shiny silver metal. This includes a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 that we bought used. It ran on bulk dino oil up to about 104k miles, IIRC, and looked pretty varnished and gunky with mild sludge under the valve cover. After about 30k and 5 or 6 oil changes with Mobil 1 High Mileage and EP 5w30, it looked much cleaner with no mild sludge and much of the varnish removed. But none of my engines running Mobil 1 from the start have ever looked like they needed a cleanup. They all have looked great.
My 2008 Wrangler has had mostly Mobil 1 with a few runs of Pennzoil Platinum or Valvoline Advanced. It has 186k on it now. Valve cover gaskets were replaced a short time ago and the tech at the Jeep dealer went out of his way to tell me how the valve train was the cleanest he's seen with that kind of mileage. That also bodes well for M1. But again, it was run on it since new.
I would expect Pennzoil Platinum to do the same thing. Probably any high quality big brand synthetic will do a good job with that.
The cleanest valve train photos I've seen on BITOG were run with Red Line. But that stuff ain't cheap.
Maybe if OP is wanting a pretty good cleanup, Red Line would be a good choice. But Mobil 1 has done a good job of this for me.
I haven't looked under the valve cover on my new to me 2007 Corvette, but I'm running Mobil 1 EP for 3k on the first change (and running it pretty hard) as a clean-up run. It may not need it. It may have been run on good oil from the start, maybe even nothing but Mobil 1. Next OCI will be switched to Mobil 1 Euro 0w40.
How long (mile or hours) do you run the flush? I don't think I have ever seen that on the shelf, but I did not look for it.
Your typical multigrade F.E. lube is not a low deposit oil.
And I would hazard a guess that with the new engine D.I timing near the top half of the upstroke focused into a piston cup, there is not much WOT intake stroke cylinder "wall washing" anymore.
I bet that rich 11.3:1 A/F with a carb or port injection dumping a load of toluene, isopentane and xylene and benzene did a pretty good job cleaning some crud out from the top two ring lands and "grooves".
-Ken
wemay
Site Donor 2023
At least in the "5"
I add the STP Highly Concentrated engine flush to the old oil right before the oil change.
I don't drive the car at all during this flushing and just idle the engine for 15 minutes to let the flush cleanse the inside of the engine, and then I drain out the old oil.
Also, to test the flush, I had an oil change done with new oil first, then added the flush, ran for 15 minutes and drained.
The brand new oil + the flush came out very dark so I know it's doing some significant cleaning.
From my observations the oil comes out much darker when using the STP Super Concentrated High Mileage Engine Flush (15 fl. oz.)
then when I use the Liqui Moly Proline engine flush, so I think the STP is a stronger cleaner. STP says on the bottle that their engine flush is safe to use with every oil change, so I'm hoping that is true. STP is a US company founded in the 1950's, so I do trust the company when they say it's safe to use with every oil change.
I'm doing 3 STP engine flushes in each of my vehicles, so after that the engines should be really clean inside.
After the 3 STP engine flushes in each vehicle, a perpetual short OCI of 4k/6 months with a good low priced full Synthetic 5W-30
that has a high dose of detergent additives (SuperTech with Detergent Calcium additive = 1,382ppm) should be all I'll need to keep the engines clean for the life of the vehicles.
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
According to the SDS, it's pretty much straight hydrotreated cycloalkanes, which are listed as a solvent with CAS #64742-53-6:I add the STP Highly Concentrated engine flush to the old oil right before the oil change.
I don't drive the car at all during this flushing and just idle the engine for 15 minutes to let the flush cleanse the inside of the engine, and then I drain out the old oil.
Also, to test the flush, I had an oil change done with new oil first, then added the flush, ran for 15 minutes and drained.
The brand new oil + the flush came out very dark so I know it's doing some significant cleaning.
From my observations the oil comes out much darker when using the STP Super Concentrated High Mileage Engine Flush (15 fl. oz.)
then when I use the Liqui Moly Proline engine flush, so I think the STP is a stronger cleaner. STP says on the bottle that their engine flush is safe to use with every oil change, so I'm hoping that is true. STP is a US company founded in the 1950's, so I do trust the company when they say it's safe to use with every oil change.
I'm doing 3 STP engine flushes in each of my vehicles, so after that the engines should be really clean inside.
After the 3 STP engine flushes in each vehicle, a perpetual short OCI of 4k/6 months with a good low priced full Synthetic 5W-30
that has a high dose of detergent additives (SuperTech with Detergent Calcium additive = 1,382ppm) should be all I'll need to keep the engines clean for the life of the vehicles.
Which is apparently, a light naphtenic base oil:
The non-"super concentrated" version is 50-75% hydrotreated heavy alkanes:
So, it would basically be a mild solvent, like Seafoam, which would likely flash-off if exposed to high heat (@RDY4WAR or @MolaKule could confirm that bit).
Thanks Overkill - that was some good analysis.
You mentioned: "According to the SDS, it's pretty much straight hydrotreated cycloalkanes, which are listed as a solvent with CAS #64742-53-6. So, it would basically be a mild solvent, like Seafoam, which would likely flash-off if exposed to high heat".
How would that compare with LiquiMoly Proline Engine Flush - would it be basically the same thing?
Also, just wondering how safe the hydrotreated cycloalkanes are to engine seals (trying to confirm STP's statement that it's safe to use with every oil change) is correct.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I'd have to look at the SDS for that product to see if it's as revealing, and if so, what the ingredients we can see are. I'd be hesitant to draw any conclusion from colour change, as something as simple as oxidation in the presence of heat can cause some significant colour change while nothing else is really taking place.
That would be a question for @MolaKule, and a good one I might add.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Used to clean pistons on the old Evinrude with their CarbonGaurd - which I later understood to be a high dose of Techron 
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