Lets talk homemade ground wires!

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dual-batteries.jpg


In the above photo, the parallelled batteries are wired in an imbalanced manner.

The battery on top will work harder and wear out before than the one on the bottom, but take the bottom battery with it.

If the negative cable were first attached to the bottom battery then parallelled to the top battery, then both batteries would share the work evenly.

How much difference will it make? Depends on how deeply the batteries are cycled and how often.

The following video shows 3 batteries wired in parallel in the unbalanced manner as shown above, and how they perform after an Equalization charge was performed.




Also Some flag terminals would have made that particular set up a bit more streamlined:

B00O7S9156


Once the wire lengths are known........

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

Quality cables and terminations crimped properly with top quality tools by someone who knows how to use them.

Hammer crimps make an OK mechanical connection and a Subpar electrical connection, but could be 'just fine'

Proper wire termination tools are not inexpensive and nor are they Nimrod proof.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I would consider an odyssey battery for frequent use of the winch. They can burst instance amperage without damage and then take a fast recharge off the alternator without harm. Something to think about


Yes, ultimately I think I will upgrade to odyssey, especially if I have short lived lead acid batteries.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: SOHCman


[img:left]https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20170506_123245-jpg.1455415/[/img]
The above example seems a bit complex, it looks like they even have several fuse-able links built into the positive side connections, is that even necessary?

Your recommendation for pass through connectors is probably closer to this image below, just nice and simple with short runs of heavy guage wire and no battery isolation. The down side I guess is both batteries can be killed at once with no isolator, where as with one you would still be able to start the engine after killing the winch battery. Also when the engine isn't running, if one battery gets weak, it can drag the other battery down. I could be wrong, just something I read.
dual-batteries.jpg


I'm going to hook it up with the single battery for the time being just to get a benchmark for how it works like that, and that will give me time to source the wire and terminals.

As far as the winch ground, it grounds through the factory 2 AWG harness directly to the battery. I could build bigger wires of corse, but not with the factory quick disconnect since it is sized for the 2 AWG.

Thanks for the help! I really do appreciate it.
SOHC


You need to think about protection of the cables, that's what fusing is all about.

Some battery designs fuse positive and negative. Fusing of positive at minimum on a vehicle is prudent, if possible. Batteries can release massive fault current, like thousands of amps. Car manufacturers don't always protect the cables as close to the source (battery) as possible.

For the picture you showed, a fuse woukd optimally be as close to the battery, on the long run of cable, as possible. For such short jumpers between batteries, I see no reason to fuse that. Now if your heavy cable jumpers to parallel batteries was a long run with chance for pinching, chafing, etc., you'd consider fusing.


I am planning on using a "tinyfuse" on the positive feed wire (1/0 AWG) that is just over the alternator output and probably mount it directly to the battery post terminal. In my case, I actually only have the 95 amp alternator instead of the 130, so I am considering upgrading right to a 200 amp powermaster alternator. I would prefer to use maybe a 225 amp tinyfuse but right now all I am finding are 250 amp. Is that too high over?
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight

dual-batteries.jpg


In the above photo, the parallelled batteries are wired in an imbalanced manner.

The battery on top will work harder and wear out before than the one on the bottom, but take the bottom battery with it.

If the negative cable were first attached to the bottom battery then parallelled to the top battery, then both batteries would share the work evenly.

How much difference will it make? Depends on how deeply the batteries are cycled and how often.

The following video shows 3 batteries wired in parallel in the unbalanced manner as shown above, and how they perform after an Equalization charge was performed.




Also Some flag terminals would have made that particular set up a bit more streamlined:

B00O7S9156


Once the wire lengths are known........

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

Quality cables and terminations crimped properly with top quality tools by someone who knows how to use them.

Hammer crimps make an OK mechanical connection and a Subpar electrical connection, but could be 'just fine'

Proper wire termination tools are not inexpensive and nor are they Nimrod proof.






I am currently looking a a $190 set of heavy duty crimpers made by FTZ that look to be the beesknees, expensive for sure, but I always look at quality tools as investments.

Thanks for the link to the flag terminals, I was having a hard time finding pass through terminals on amazon, aparently it's not smart enough to know they appear to be the same thing...
 
Just something I rigged up. It's a 12v AMG and a 2V AMG wired to kick in for 14v when the alternator was shut off by a WOT vacuum switch.

14v-mod-assembled.jpg
 
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