Let's Talk Gun Safes.

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When I bought my safe I researched for a couple of months and was ready to just buy a TL-30, but then I thought what if I move? I'll need a crane.... so I compromised. Don't buy a tin can at your big box store, I've seen too many pictures of those things opened like a soda can with a crow bar and a hammer. I can BARELY get a piece of paper to slide in the door gap of mine. Positioning is critical also to prevent leverage on any pry bar if someone were ever to even get one in, oh and bolt it down through the foundation. I have a lot of 30 round mags, 16 round mags I'd rather not have to try to replace cause some tweaker picked my house, can't wait to retire and get tf out of this state
 
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The problem these days is most gun safe are made of sheet metal rather than plate steel that makes them more susceptible to peeling. My National Security is 3/8's plate and weighs real close to one thousand pounds empty.
 
Well, a few weeks ago, I decided on the Interloc XP by Dakota Safe. It’s a 60”x30”x36”, 527-lb. modular safe. I believe the heaviest piece is 180 lbs. when disassembled, so, pretty easily movable, which I needed, since I’m in an apartment now and will be moving probably several more times.

Anyway, they just produced a few more of these, and I ordered mine today! Hopefully it will be shipping in the next couple of days!

Dakota Interloc XP:

https://youtu.be/m126fzURt9g



 
Originally Posted By: Youthanasia
..... oh and bolt it down through the foundation.


Be very careful doing this. Most homes built on slabs have all of the water piping running through, or just under the slab. Drill in the wrong place and you can very easily turn your home into a water park. A plumber I hired once told me about having to re pipe a home because of the owner doing exactly that. It was over $7K not counting the water damage. And many track built new homes that come with 10 year warranties, will be voided if you start compromising the concrete they're built on, by going nuts with a hammer drill. It's written right into the warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Youthanasia
..... oh and bolt it down through the foundation.


Be very careful doing this. Most homes built on slabs have all of the water piping running through, or just under the slab. Drill in the wrong place and you can very easily turn your home into a water park. A plumber I hired once told me about having to re pipe a home because of the owner doing exactly that. It was over $7K not counting the water damage. And many track built new homes that come with 10 year warranties, will be voided if you start compromising the concrete they're built on, by going nuts with a hammer drill. It's written right into the warranty.


How would one be able to tell if there are pipes in the slab under the safe?
 
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
How would one be able to tell if there are pipes in the slab under the safe?


That's the $64,000 dollar question. I'm not 100% sure about this, but I think some of the better equipped plumbers have ultrasonic equipment that can detect slight differences in density. (Much the same way these electronic stud finders work through drywall). Thereby eliminating drilling anywhere where they think pipes might exist. I know that city water and gas companies are willing to come out with their equipment if you call them before digging on your property. They do this for free, because it's far cheaper than fixing busted gas lines and water mains. I'm thinking plumbers have similar equipment for this sort of thing as well.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
How would one be able to tell if there are pipes in the slab under the safe?


That's the $64,000 dollar question. I'm not 100% sure about this, but I think some of the better equipped plumbers have ultrasonic equipment that can detect slight differences in density. (Much the same way these electronic stud finders work through drywall). Thereby eliminating drilling anywhere where they think pipes might exist. I know that city water and gas companies are willing to come out with their equipment if you call them before digging on your property. They do this for free, because it's far cheaper than fixing busted gas lines and water mains. I'm thinking plumbers have similar equipment for this sort of thing as well.


Good information. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Youthanasia
..... oh and bolt it down through the foundation.


Be very careful doing this. Most homes built on slabs have all of the water piping running through, or just under the slab. Drill in the wrong place and you can very easily turn your home into a water park. A plumber I hired once told me about having to re pipe a home because of the owner doing exactly that. It was over $7K not counting the water damage. And many track built new homes that come with 10 year warranties, will be voided if you start compromising the concrete they're built on, by going nuts with a hammer drill. It's written right into the warranty.


that and post tension slabs, hit one of those cables and your foundation is done. I had them do it, I wouldn't do it myself.
 
Originally Posted By: Youthanasia
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Youthanasia
..... oh and bolt it down through the foundation.


Be very careful doing this. Most homes built on slabs have all of the water piping running through, or just under the slab. Drill in the wrong place and you can very easily turn your home into a water park. A plumber I hired once told me about having to re pipe a home because of the owner doing exactly that. It was over $7K not counting the water damage. And many track built new homes that come with 10 year warranties, will be voided if you start compromising the concrete they're built on, by going nuts with a hammer drill. It's written right into the warranty.


that and post tension slabs, hit one of those cables and your foundation is done. I had them do it, I wouldn't do it myself.


What’s a tension slab?
 
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
What’s a tension slab?


It's similar to the pre cast concrete sections they use in bridges. They take a heavy cable and introduce tension into it, by pulling it on the ends with tons of force. Then they pour the concrete into the mold submersing the cable in it, and allow it to harden and cure. They then release the tension in the cable. It is a bit more complicated than that. But that's it in a nutshell.

The retained kinetic force within the stretched cable helps to pull the piece together, and in the process help prevent cracking from movement or shifting of the ground underneath. In a foundation slab it's all done on site. It is mostly done on very large slabs that high square footage homes will be built on. Or else on slabs that are built on non stable ground. Albeit at a higher construction cost.
 
Not sure on what "retained kinetic force" is.

Concrete, in design is assumed to have zero strength in tension...it's got SOME, but is very unreliable, so you assume that it's fractured when designing it in as an element. Reinforcing is added to take that tensile element...steel is so much stronger than concrete, so you need only a little for general purposes.

For bridge beams, in bending, the outside of the bend has to be in tension, which doesn't work. So they install wire ropes, and tension them such that the concrete is always compressed, even when bending moments occur.

Doing similar with slabs, as mentioned keeps the slab under compressive loadings on unstable ground, or when suspended.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Not sure on what "retained kinetic force" is.


Very simple. The cable is stretched under tons of force. That force is transferred and retained in the concrete when it's released.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Not sure on what "retained kinetic force" is.


Very simple. The cable is stretched under tons of force. That force is transferred and retained in the concrete when it's released.


Kinetic is movement, and related to energy rather than force.

Tension is static, and related to force.

"retained static forces" works.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Not sure on what "retained kinetic force" is.


Very simple. The cable is stretched under tons of force. That force is transferred and retained in the concrete when it's released.


Kinetic is movement, and related to energy rather than force.

Tension is static, and related to force.

"retained static forces" works.


If tagging it with a different name helps you better understand it. Run with it.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
If tagging it with a different name helps you better understand it. Run with it.


LOL...just using standard engineering parlance...you could learn from it.
 
Google "retained kinetic force"...see how many hits you get. Then take yours away.

But I do agree that you won't learn from it...
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Google...


I explained it to John. I'm sure he gets it. End of story. Then you came barging into the conversation playing word games. This isn't going any better for you than the whole oil argument did in the other thread. And here you are yet again. Just like another creature who never seems to learn. At least he's cute.
 
I have a Homeland Security safe that I'm happy with. Holds everything I want in it (especially with the rifle rod system).

Plenty of room for expansion
smile.gif
.
 
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