Ours is a 2012, also says 5w20 on the cap to satisfy the CAFE Nazi's. The manual quickly suggests 5w30 or 10w30 if any real work is to be done (like driving in high heat or towing) and allows for even thicker oils if it's all that's available.
The Hyundai/KIA 5w20 spec has long reeked of "me too" CAFE stuff and IMO has nothing to do with the engines, which doesn't take a genius to figure out when you read the manual. They won't grenade on a 20 grade of course, but if you carefully peruse UOA's you'll see the aluminum numbers usually higher with 20 grades. People fixate on the iron numbers but it's my observation the thinner oils show up in the aluminum numbers first.
I have run a 5w20 a couple times in winter when I got a smoking deal...but ours has seen 5w30 almost exclusively the last 65k. But I switched to 10k OCI's recently and in went Castrol 0w40, guess what it runs great you can't tell any difference.
The Hyundai/KIA 5w20 spec has long reeked of "me too" CAFE stuff and IMO has nothing to do with the engines, which doesn't take a genius to figure out when you read the manual. They won't grenade on a 20 grade of course, but if you carefully peruse UOA's you'll see the aluminum numbers usually higher with 20 grades. People fixate on the iron numbers but it's my observation the thinner oils show up in the aluminum numbers first.
I have run a 5w20 a couple times in winter when I got a smoking deal...but ours has seen 5w30 almost exclusively the last 65k. But I switched to 10k OCI's recently and in went Castrol 0w40, guess what it runs great you can't tell any difference.