Just Check and Add ?
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I've had half of dozen of the cheap push mowers over the past 25 years and they never fail due to the engine. It's either been the carb or rust. I've had one unit have a wheel mount rust away...pushed it around on 3 wheels for 2 yrs then tossed in the towel after 5 yrs total even with the engine running fine. The other failures were dirty carbs. These units are probably 10X more likely to fail from the carb than engine/electrical. So a steady diet of fuel conditioners is a good start...or a non-ethanol fuel.
Getting 5 yrs on these is just fine with me. That's $30/yr on the purchase price.
Getting 5 yrs on these is just fine with me. That's $30/yr on the purchase price.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Just bought a female a new mower with a B&S. Huge sticker on the motor says never need oil changed. I was expecting a sealed engine but it has a dip stick and came with the usual bottle of oil to add to the motor as part of assembly. I will let her use the mower awhile and change it out with a good synthetic oil,show her how to check it and leave a quart for top offs and then forget about it.
Good plan.
I suspect the mower will likely rot out from under the engine long before the engine lets go as long as she tops it off as required.
I've worked on B&S and Tecumseh engines that had a substance more similar to grease in the crankcase than oil. They probably never had an oil change nor a top off in ten years or more. They were severely neglected yet continued to run. Some of them smoked a bit but once I changed the oil, they ran fairly clean.
Just bought a female a new mower with a B&S. Huge sticker on the motor says never need oil changed. I was expecting a sealed engine but it has a dip stick and came with the usual bottle of oil to add to the motor as part of assembly. I will let her use the mower awhile and change it out with a good synthetic oil,show her how to check it and leave a quart for top offs and then forget about it.
Good plan.
I suspect the mower will likely rot out from under the engine long before the engine lets go as long as she tops it off as required.
I've worked on B&S and Tecumseh engines that had a substance more similar to grease in the crankcase than oil. They probably never had an oil change nor a top off in ten years or more. They were severely neglected yet continued to run. Some of them smoked a bit but once I changed the oil, they ran fairly clean.
FWIW: I recently sold my 1998 Snapper 33" riding mower (SR1433) with 14HP OHV Kolher engine (CV14). I always used Purolator filters and 5W-30 M1 oil while I owned it (bought it from original owner in 2008 who well maintained it). Changed the oil ever year and the filter ever other year. Oil was always as clean as when new, never used oil, never smoked and always started on the first pull (7 year old battery died and I never got a new one). Thing ran like a well-oiled tank. I always mulched with the Ninja blades (both grass, leaves and small sticks). I had to replace the front wheels (finally dry rotted) but never the drive belt or other major parts. Stored dry. Great mower for my 1/2 acre yard. The reason it lasted so long was I (and the previous owner) took good care of it.
On a slightly different front:
I bought new a 22" Lawn Boy 2-cycle push mower back in 1993. I still have it today and it runs great! It was made with the Aluminum body that never rusts/rots. Always stored dry, used fresh gas (100% Gas) with synthetic 2-cycle oil (that also had the gas stabilizer it it). Still has original spark plug and while I pulled the bottom cover to clean the exhaust ports it was totally clean. Starts on 2nd pull. I now only use the TruFuel 40:1 fuel since I only use this as a trim mower (now little used).
They don't make them like they used to!
The Point: Buy wisely and take care of your stuff. You'll feel better and spend less money - then have a story someday of "how if used to be made in America".
On a slightly different front:
I bought new a 22" Lawn Boy 2-cycle push mower back in 1993. I still have it today and it runs great! It was made with the Aluminum body that never rusts/rots. Always stored dry, used fresh gas (100% Gas) with synthetic 2-cycle oil (that also had the gas stabilizer it it). Still has original spark plug and while I pulled the bottom cover to clean the exhaust ports it was totally clean. Starts on 2nd pull. I now only use the TruFuel 40:1 fuel since I only use this as a trim mower (now little used).
They don't make them like they used to!
The Point: Buy wisely and take care of your stuff. You'll feel better and spend less money - then have a story someday of "how if used to be made in America".
Originally Posted By: CT8
How many people even know there is oil in there lawn mower engines?
Probably less than 1/2 ? But I know .
How many people even know there is oil in there lawn mower engines?
Probably less than 1/2 ? But I know .
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Get a oil suction gun. I tilt my lawnmower so all the oil goes towards the oil fill. One pull with gun all oil is out. Refill. Done.
My last 2 lawn mowers with the older B&S have not had a drain plug on the bottom .
I also tilt them on their sides and pour the oil out the fill opening .
Get a oil suction gun. I tilt my lawnmower so all the oil goes towards the oil fill. One pull with gun all oil is out. Refill. Done.
My last 2 lawn mowers with the older B&S have not had a drain plug on the bottom .
I also tilt them on their sides and pour the oil out the fill opening .
Originally Posted By: Imp4
I think this is a case, unfortunately, of marketing to a consumer with a throwaway/disposal product mentality.
That is 100% the first impression I got .
I think this is a case, unfortunately, of marketing to a consumer with a throwaway/disposal product mentality.
That is 100% the first impression I got .
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
I've had half of dozen of the cheap push mowers over the past 25 years and they never fail due to the engine. It's either been the carb or rust. I've had one unit have a wheel mount rust away...pushed it around on 3 wheels for 2 yrs then tossed in the towel after 5 yrs total even with the engine running fine. The other failures were dirty carbs. These units are probably 10X more likely to fail from the carb than engine/electrical. So a steady diet of fuel conditioners is a good start...or a non-ethanol fuel.
Getting 5 yrs on these is just fine with me. That's $30/yr on the purchase price.
I am totally sure E10 fuel is not very friendlt to small engines .
I've had half of dozen of the cheap push mowers over the past 25 years and they never fail due to the engine. It's either been the carb or rust. I've had one unit have a wheel mount rust away...pushed it around on 3 wheels for 2 yrs then tossed in the towel after 5 yrs total even with the engine running fine. The other failures were dirty carbs. These units are probably 10X more likely to fail from the carb than engine/electrical. So a steady diet of fuel conditioners is a good start...or a non-ethanol fuel.
Getting 5 yrs on these is just fine with me. That's $30/yr on the purchase price.
I am totally sure E10 fuel is not very friendlt to small engines .
I also had a "3-wheeler" several years ago. Not fun.
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