Just bought new Corolla oil suggestions

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 26, 2003
Messages
491
Location
Ottawa
The car now has 500km on it and I would like to use M1 in the cars engine and tranny, when should I do the first old change and can I use M1 5W-30 right away?
Also the manual states the tranny uses 75W-90 can I switch that to Mobil1 gear oil also.
 
As for the tranny, be sure to check if it requires GL-4 or if GL-5 is acceptable. If GL-4 only, then do not use M1 gear oil.
 
Rick, I've read lots of good things on Toyota filters and I am going with M1 oil/Toyo filters in my '06 Scion tC.

I think that's a good combo and should be fine. I am waiting to 2k or 3k for break-in though and doing dino at 1k and 2k.

Scott
 
This is from the SCION FAQ:

"If the Scion Scheduled Maintenance Guide or Owner's Manual specifies Genuine ATF Type T-IV transmission fluid, only this type of fluid may be used. Type T-IV transmission fluid has replaced T-II fluid."

I will look in my manual when I get a chance later or tomorrow...

Scott
 
If its a brand new car.......why even bother switching the Trans fluid ??
dunno.gif
 
I changed my manual transmission fluid out immediately because I was not happy with the engagement action in the syncros. I used the amsoil specific application and now the shifter acts like a toggle switch. It pops into gear with little to no resistance. The friction modifiers are top notch. Talk to Pablo. They carry both GL-4 and GL-5 lubrication.
 
That's exactly it, when it's -20 2nd gear clips a bit, sorry for the bad lingo there. But I'm thinking that if I used M1 gear oil that it would be a lot smoother angaging?
 
"If its a brand new car.......why even bother switching the Trans fluid ??"

I certainly agree. I think if you change though consider RedLine. I personally don't think you will see any improvement with Mobil 1 or Amsoil. I didn't.
 
I changed out my MTX fluid in my '05 Mazda3 at 10K. I used Redline MT-90. The shifting definitely improved with the Redline. I'd definitely reccommend it.
 
As someone who HAS a 2005 Corolla I'd suggest the following;

First, I would change out the oil around 1000 miles. I did and ran a UOA and it has higher than normal metals in it and the next few UOAs showed lower metal counts than other Corollas.


Cost? $10.. do it.


2nd, I changed the factory transmission oil (it's a 5 speed) at 22k and it was plenty dirty. Lots of metal in it (you could see it in the sun) and color was not good.

I put in Mobil 1 Syn 75-90 and it shifts the same.

It took 2 quarts for a total of $14. I'm planning on leaving it in for 60k miles then I will put in normal 75-90wt oil. The $3 a quart oil.

As far as what oil to run, many here and I have run a few different oils and Mobil 1 is not needed and this engine does not run as well with it or other Syns as normal oil.

(right Goose?)

Doing a Search of the word Corolla will get you some feedback on this item. (you'll be reading for sometime!
grin.gif
)

You have to stay with 5,000 miles or 6 month oil changes for the first 60,000 miles or 5 years.

The COST difference for 12 Oil changes (which you MUST do for the warrenty) between a oil like Havoline (sp) and Mobil 1 is $110.

How much is that? 2000 miles worth of gas!

In the first 60k miles.
shocked.gif
Thats just the cost difference for oil. I figured the above with Mobil 1 being $4 a quart (a little low since the 5 quart jugs are $21 now) and Dino oil being $1.70 (wal mart prices and EVERYDAY prices)

If we get into a .49 cent a quart Chevron oil then the savings will be greater.

I've DONE UOAS on Castrol (GTX, Blend and Syntec), Mobil 1, Mobil Drive clean and soon Pennzoil and the Drive clean had the best UOA.

Worst?(UOA results vs cost of oil and UOA result) Mobil 1. The engine did not get any better MPG and used more of the Mobil 1 durning the run (about 3/4 of a quart or $3 worth of oil!).

The engine consumed more Mobil 1 in the 5k oil change interval than 32k miles using other oils.

Right now, it uses about 2oz of oil per 4k run.

The best running (how the engine runs and sounds) oil so far has been the Castrol Blend and Pennzoil. It will be interesting to see the UOA on the Pennzoil in a month or so.

MPG average for 37k miles is almost 42 mpg and the highest mpg is a little over 46 mpg. That was with Castrol GTX.

I run the cheapest gas and changed the oil every 4-5k or every 6-8 weeks. It's a very easy car to change the oil in.

Oil Filters used? Bosch, STP, Toyota, Purolater and Supertech. UOAS have not shown any brand to be better than an other.

I have a little stash of oil and filters
tongue.gif
but if I was going to have to go to a store and buy off sale oil and filter, I'd buy Havoline (sp) dino 5w-30 and Supertech filter. Oil change around $10.

2nd choice if it was NOT on sale? Castrol GTX or Pennzoil dino.

And the engine will last as long as you need it too. It will be clean and run perfect.
smile.gif


I think your $$ would be better spent using LC20 in the oil than paying for Syn IF you need to spend the money?

Ask Terry what he would think about that.

My 4 cents and from someone who OWNS a Corolla!
grin.gif


Take care, Bill
biggthumbcoffe.gif


PS: My Corolla sees temps around zero to over 110 degrees year round. Driven 60+ miles one way per day high speed commute and about 10 short (less than 2 miles trips) per week. It's been a excellent car and other than cracked windshields and thin paint, I have no complaints. Just ran out of the 36k warrenty in 15 months with no issues. In fact the car has not been back to the Stealership since I drove it away..
fruit.gif
 
Leave the ATF or Gear Lube in any new vechile for the first 10,000 miles. This should also be extended to diff.'s and T/cases as well. Gear's take a lot longer to finish breaking in then an engine. If you change the fluid sooner then 10,000 miles in those applications you risk wasteing the premium fluid due to continued break in wear. THe point is to get the waste out and fresh fluid in as soon as the acceleraed wear in process is finished. In an engine the grossly accelerated wear is usualy done some place between 600-1000 miles with gears it can take up to 10,000 miles if they have not been nicely lapped!
 
offtopic.gif


quote:

Given your experiences, I am glad I got the Honda Civic!
smile.gif


Not to get into brand wars..
lol.gif


But the major reasons why I did not buy a Honda was;

1. I'm almost 6 foot 6 and it's very tight in a Civic.

2. My 1998 Honda Accord. (wife hated it)
twak.gif


3. My Dads 2001 Civic needing a new long block at 14k miles.
rolleyes.gif


I'm very happy with my Corolla.
fruit.gif
Prob just as much as you are with your Civic!
cheers.gif


Take care, Bill
biggthumbcoffe.gif
 
Like you I do not see it as a "brand war." If anything I have had app 703,000 miles with 6 Toyota products.

More to the point however, it will be interesting what the longitudinal results will be between Corolla and Civic auto vs manual, timing belt vs no timing belt (2005 on up), etc.

Again, some folks do find it hard to believe Honda's recommendation for 10,000 miles with 5w20 oil.

If I decided to run conventional oil, I would indeed run ExxonMobil Superflo or the Mobil Driveclean products, but for sure app 10,000 miles.

[ February 20, 2006, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
 
quote:

So Bill, you don't agree with the saying I've read here: "Toyotas love M1"?

Scott,

With running 4-5k or 6 month OCI, NO.
spaz.gif


(and I would not run long OCIs, it's not cost effective IMO..)
twak.gif


In fact, I run under $1 a quart oil and change out every 4-5k and the engine will last just as long as if you ran Mobil 1.

My Toyota did not love Mobil 1.

(maybe it did, it used enough of it durning it's run...
shocked.gif
)

I tried it to see if I would get any of the claims (smoother, better running, better MPG, etc) and even ran a UOA to see if I got better wear metals (I did not) and came up that it's not worth it.

Then you add the cost of it and useage I'd say NO.

I've owned cars and trucks that have got well over 200k with no issues running plain old dino oil. They run perfect, get great MPG, don't leak or smoke and pass the #$%^@!@ smog everytime.

I've had to open up a few for valve adjustments or maintenance and they are clean. My 1986 Jetta is still clean (looking thru the oil cap) with 260k miles using Halovine (sp) mostly and fram filters.

Todays oils are better and so are our engines.

I don't think that a full Syn is needed and love my car just as much as the next person.. I want it to last and be protected.

It is using a good oil and changing it every 4-5k.
burnout.gif


I'll save the $$ and enjoy the savings. And see you at 200k or beyond!
cheers.gif


Take care, Bill
biggthumbcoffe.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top