Intake/PCV delete

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The valve cover hose you can get by with just a filter. No big deal unless you have a lot of blowby or a turbo.
 
When I was a young man, in the late '70s, I thought I'd be "smart" and replace the PCV system on a 318 V8 Plymouth Duster with a road draft tube. I figured the PCV system was robbing me of power. So I fabricated a road draft tube (look it up if you need to) and installed it in place of the PCV valve.

The power gain? Never noticed a thing.

Well, after a week or two I checked under the oil fill cap. It was coated with yellow sludge. The road draft tube was ineffective and the crankcase was suffering from a build-up of combustion by-products.

The PCV valve is a critical element of the breathing system that keeps the crankcase free of combustion byproducts. I would not want my car to be without one.
 
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I run the InJen short ram intake that has the required/recommended fresh air pick-off that goes to the right side of the 2.0L (turbo) valve cover. Leave the PCV valve and hose on the left side of the valve cover connected to the intake manifold. This intake keeps the OEM air scoop that routes cool air from the front of the car directly at the air cleaner.

I have installed a set of very good dual catch cans on each run (Saikou Michi) and collect ~2oz of crude per 5K OCI that would have gone into my engine's intake path and coated my valves (GDI engine).
 
Originally Posted By: DriveHard
or you could just get something like this to put a slight vacuum on the crankcase...
https://www.amazon.com/Karlsson-Robotics-D2028-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B00DYA21PU

Wonder if it has enough capacity to overcome the natural blowby pressure? I tried a small vacuum pump on the sealed crankcase and it did not do well. It found sealing the fresh air intake on the valve cover, putting a catch can inline between the PCV valve and intake manifold and in a cool location would create about 6"Hg of vacuum at highway speeds and kept the intake really clean.

The catch can had a spring loaded check valve that closed under vacuum and opened at 0". It was self draining at WOT or when the engine shut off. Worked great but there were some pumping noises from the engine when it idled.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I've been using electric smog pump as crankcase evacuation pumps for years. Ford pumps will pull a solid 9" on a V8 engine.

Where do you dump evacuated gases? Draft tube or into exhaust pipe? Any smell or dripping issues? Do these pumps last long with crankcase mix in them, particularly at low ambient temperatures?
 
I used to pipe the gases into the exhaust, but I found that piping them into the air filter box before the filter is easier, without any penalties.

The pumps need a filter before their intakes. I like to use a big catch can. I make them myself out of PVC pipe. You want to make the catch can as tall as possible to prevent the sheer velocity from allowing the pump to suck up oil.

The catch can makes sure that there is no dripping since the oil never gets to the pump, and routing the discharge to the air box makes sure you don't endure any stink.

Don't worry about oil vapor. I have never seen any evidence of oil vapor deposits either in my air box or air filter. Either it's so miniscule that it can't be felt or seen, or its just not happening.

I've used these both in the form of a completely sealed crankcase (no air inlet at all), to using these with a small filtered opening to allow air to enter crankcase. Never noticed any benefits or drawbacks to going either way, but I guess I prefer to let some air flow through the engine. Either way, the crankcase will be under some decent suction. Takes a decent pull to get the dipstick out.

My favorite way to source bleed air for the crankcase inlet is simply to leave the existing crankcase inlet intact. It already comes from a smart, filtered location, so you can't really go wrong.
 
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