That's more than normal consumption now. I mentioned OEM filter because it should have the right bypass pressure and anti-drain back feature as specified for your engine. Some off the shelf filters have go into bypass at too low pressure. You may want to try M1 10w-40 HM just to see if it lowers consumption.
Increased Oil Consumption with Extended OCI? HELP!
- Thread starter RallyMachine
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Originally Posted By: RallyMachine
Originally Posted By: gregoron
What oil filter are you using? You may want to use OEM if not already. You can also check if your spark plugs are spec.
I'm using an Amsoil filter, which as I understand, is better than most you can buy at an auto parts store. Plugs were replaced
Originally Posted By: Clevy
If its the first time using this oil it is common that an engine consumes some for a while. We see it very often here especially when going from conventional to synthetic.
I suggest running out the interval,the consumption should subside once the oil lays down its anti-wear layer and the engine gets accustomed to the new brand of oil.
If you look at some of our members threads you will see that when changing brands and/or grades some engines consume some oil but it does stabilize.
Keep us informed of your observations please. I'm curious to see how long before it tapers off.
Interesting, that does make sense. I guess it could also be cleaning up some sludge/gunk build-up since it's formulated to reduce soot/carbon in the engine?
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
I'm no Subie expert,
but if I were running a modified high performance engine that's also set up rich I would forget about extended OCIs.
On top of that there's more contamination from increased blow-by.
I would put in an inexpensive synthetic oil and change every 3000 miles.
That's what I've been thinking while going through all this. Might as well just put some T6 in every 3k and know I have clean, fresh oil all the time than trying to save a few bucks with extended OCIs.
Believe it or not wear rates actually lessen the longer you leave the oil in the sump,until the oil is depleted of course.
Dnewton wrote an enlightening article about wear rates. It's mandatory reading around here and is quite an eye opener.
Originally Posted By: gregoron
What oil filter are you using? You may want to use OEM if not already. You can also check if your spark plugs are spec.
I'm using an Amsoil filter, which as I understand, is better than most you can buy at an auto parts store. Plugs were replaced
Originally Posted By: Clevy
If its the first time using this oil it is common that an engine consumes some for a while. We see it very often here especially when going from conventional to synthetic.
I suggest running out the interval,the consumption should subside once the oil lays down its anti-wear layer and the engine gets accustomed to the new brand of oil.
If you look at some of our members threads you will see that when changing brands and/or grades some engines consume some oil but it does stabilize.
Keep us informed of your observations please. I'm curious to see how long before it tapers off.
Interesting, that does make sense. I guess it could also be cleaning up some sludge/gunk build-up since it's formulated to reduce soot/carbon in the engine?
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
I'm no Subie expert,
but if I were running a modified high performance engine that's also set up rich I would forget about extended OCIs.
On top of that there's more contamination from increased blow-by.
I would put in an inexpensive synthetic oil and change every 3000 miles.
That's what I've been thinking while going through all this. Might as well just put some T6 in every 3k and know I have clean, fresh oil all the time than trying to save a few bucks with extended OCIs.
Believe it or not wear rates actually lessen the longer you leave the oil in the sump,until the oil is depleted of course.
Dnewton wrote an enlightening article about wear rates. It's mandatory reading around here and is quite an eye opener.
Originally Posted By: RallyMachine
Just checked my oil level and it's below the low marker with less than 600 miles on the oil! Is this oil just too thin for my application or what?!
So that's about 1 quart in 600 miles? Seems very high.
Whatever you do re changing the oil, the **most** important thing to do at this stage is to keep the oil up to it. Definitely don't let it go significantly under the low level mark!
Just checked my oil level and it's below the low marker with less than 600 miles on the oil! Is this oil just too thin for my application or what?!
So that's about 1 quart in 600 miles? Seems very high.
Whatever you do re changing the oil, the **most** important thing to do at this stage is to keep the oil up to it. Definitely don't let it go significantly under the low level mark!
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Believe it or not wear rates actually lessen the longer you leave the oil in the sump,until the oil is depleted of course.
I think there's truth to that, but in this case the oil is "depleted" at a low mileage.
Also, is there a documented case of an engine suffering early problems due to too frequent oil changes?
Believe it or not wear rates actually lessen the longer you leave the oil in the sump,until the oil is depleted of course.
I think there's truth to that, but in this case the oil is "depleted" at a low mileage.
Also, is there a documented case of an engine suffering early problems due to too frequent oil changes?
Originally Posted By: RallyMachine
Just checked my oil level and it's below the low marker with less than 600 miles on the oil! Is this oil just too thin for my application or what?!
Even thin oil shouldn't be burning that much. You're not smelling oil or getting some smoke coming out of the intercooler? I would probably look for a sale on Mobil1 and try some M1 10W-40 High Mileage.
-Dennis
Just checked my oil level and it's below the low marker with less than 600 miles on the oil! Is this oil just too thin for my application or what?!
Even thin oil shouldn't be burning that much. You're not smelling oil or getting some smoke coming out of the intercooler? I would probably look for a sale on Mobil1 and try some M1 10W-40 High Mileage.
-Dennis
Well I topped it off with some T6 last night and immediately noticed that the Rotella seemed far thicker than the Amsoil EFM even though they are the same weight. While the Amsoil used to flow easily down the fill tube, I had to slow down the fill of the T6 (and spilled everywhere in the process -____-) because it wouldn't flow down the tube as fast.
Checked the PCV valve and it still rattled, but cleaned it out with some MAF cleaner since I had it out. Slight pool of oil in the Intercooler/TB hose, but definitely not a quarts worth!
I plan on doing a full change of the T6 today, but I'm thinking that the Amsoil might have sheered too easily in my engine (or at least I hope so
). My last interval was understandably long, but even after adding nearly the entire capacity of the engine in make up oil, the weight was barely in spec of a 5w-40...
Checked the PCV valve and it still rattled, but cleaned it out with some MAF cleaner since I had it out. Slight pool of oil in the Intercooler/TB hose, but definitely not a quarts worth!
I plan on doing a full change of the T6 today, but I'm thinking that the Amsoil might have sheered too easily in my engine (or at least I hope so
Originally Posted By: RallyMachine
Well I topped it off with some T6 last night and immediately noticed that the Rotella seemed far thicker than the Amsoil EFM even though they are the same weight. While the Amsoil used to flow easily down the fill tube, I had to slow down the fill of the T6 (and spilled everywhere in the process -____-) because it wouldn't flow down the tube as fast.
Checked the PCV valve and it still rattled, but cleaned it out with some MAF cleaner since I had it out. Slight pool of oil in the Intercooler/TB hose, but definitely not a quarts worth!
I plan on doing a full change of the T6 today, but I'm thinking that the Amsoil might have sheered too easily in my engine (or at least I hope so
). My last interval was understandably long, but even after adding nearly the entire capacity of the engine in make up oil, the weight was barely in spec of a 5w-40...
Amsoil likely uses a higher quality basestock (i.e. more group IV PAO and Group V POE) than the Rotella T-6 and this is why it flows much better at room temperature.
You do realize that Amsoil's EFM is a European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil with full-SAPS European Oil for European Gasoline and Diesel Engines - right?
Well I topped it off with some T6 last night and immediately noticed that the Rotella seemed far thicker than the Amsoil EFM even though they are the same weight. While the Amsoil used to flow easily down the fill tube, I had to slow down the fill of the T6 (and spilled everywhere in the process -____-) because it wouldn't flow down the tube as fast.
Checked the PCV valve and it still rattled, but cleaned it out with some MAF cleaner since I had it out. Slight pool of oil in the Intercooler/TB hose, but definitely not a quarts worth!
I plan on doing a full change of the T6 today, but I'm thinking that the Amsoil might have sheered too easily in my engine (or at least I hope so
Amsoil likely uses a higher quality basestock (i.e. more group IV PAO and Group V POE) than the Rotella T-6 and this is why it flows much better at room temperature.
You do realize that Amsoil's EFM is a European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil with full-SAPS European Oil for European Gasoline and Diesel Engines - right?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Amsoil likely uses a higher quality basestock (i.e. more group IV PAO and Group V POE) than the Rotella T-6 and this is why it flows much better at room temperature.
You do realize that Amsoil's EFM is a European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil with full-SAPS European Oil for European Gasoline and Diesel Engines - right?
I was told by an Amsoil dealer that the EFM is Group III basestock, just like the T6.
Yes I put the Euro 5w-40 in my car because it is also turbocharged like many European and Diesel cars/truck. Also, it has a catless exhaust so I was not too concerned with emissions.
Amsoil likely uses a higher quality basestock (i.e. more group IV PAO and Group V POE) than the Rotella T-6 and this is why it flows much better at room temperature.
You do realize that Amsoil's EFM is a European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil with full-SAPS European Oil for European Gasoline and Diesel Engines - right?
I was told by an Amsoil dealer that the EFM is Group III basestock, just like the T6.
Yes I put the Euro 5w-40 in my car because it is also turbocharged like many European and Diesel cars/truck. Also, it has a catless exhaust so I was not too concerned with emissions.
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