I'll be asking for the VIN when ordering parts for other people.

[92saturnsl2]

Had a friend ask me if I'd be willing to change out O2 sensors for his friend, someone unknown to me. 2013 Fusion which has a few engine choices in that year, so that was the first question. Took him a day or two to get back with me and said "1.6L". I always offer to order parts for people since I can save them money over local chains when ordering from Rockauto, and I can often save myself shipping costs if I need something for myself. Then they just pay me back.

Pulling the O2 sensors out wasn't bad, the rear one was a bit of a challenge due to space.

Take the old versus new and compare them--- completely different sensors, with different connectors. Then something dawns on me, I didn't see a turbo while I was back there. I go to my usual spot to verify equipped engine and the underhood sticker says 1.6L just like the fella told me. I then wipe the grime off the valve cover sticker and it's a 2.5L, which I should have known because I've seen them before, but not a 1.6L. Guy didn't know the car's history, I thought engine swap for a second, but it was then I connected the dots.

The hood doesn't latch right, has to be tied down with bunjees and all front plastic supports are aftermarket. He then discloses the car has a rebuilt title so it's obvious to me a salvage hood was put on. Viola, I look up the VIN and it's supposed to have a 2.5L. Very frustrating because I'm basically doing this for charity (couple cases of beer for my labor).

I wanted to get this done, so I send them to the nearest parts store (O'Reilly) to bring back a downstream O2 sensor and they come back with a universal sensor you have to splice because it was cheapest. What a ****show. I don't believe in these sensors and would never install them in my own car, but I went and hooked it up. After a couple test drives the original code is gone (P0420 cat efficiency code) but now there's a O2 heater circuit code on that same sensor which I blame on the universal unit. I read live data and the sensor is performing just fine, but the ECU doesn't like what it sees on the heater circuit.

Whole thing could have been avoided by asking for a VIN. That or I need to look at the car first before I offer to help people.

 

[cptbarkey]

Isnt Ford notorious for changing minor fitment on nonsensical things every few years? I've avoided them in general, but that has been something ticking in the back of my brain for some time. Sounds like a good idea for the future.

 

[fantastic]

You're in the right mode & OEM for electrical is what I try to do when I can. Live/Learn experience for the both of you. Hopefully this car will get repaired eventually.

 

[92saturnsl2]

You're in the right mode & OEM for electrical is what I try to do when I can. Live/Learn experience for the both of you. Hopefully this car will get repaired eventually.

If they had given me the correct engine, I had both OEM Bosch sensors in hand for less than $100 from Rockauto.

Rockauto is a bear to return things which puts more burden on me, anyone need two O2 sensors for a 1.6L Fusion?

 

[bdcardinal]

I always get a VIN unless it is something very obvious like "oil filter for a 6.0L diesel" kinda thing. People complain, but I have been playing the parts game long enough to where I will gladly move onto someone who appreciates the help and me wanting to sell the correct part the first time.

 

[bdcardinal]

Also to expand, our parts catalogs on the dealer level can look up parts without a VIN, but on most newer cars with the VIN entered it will pull the BOM and only list the parts the vehicle was born with.

 

[fantastic]

If they had given me the correct engine, I had both OEM Bosch sensors in hand for less than $100 from Rockauto.

Rockauto is a bear to return things which puts more burden on me, anyone need two O2 sensors for a 1.6L Fusion?

That would've eliminated this headache. Yeah, Rockauto is a bear for returns.

 

[paulo57509]

Working on Toyota/Lexus vehicles, I always go by VIN. Using their online parts catalogs got me into this habit; the line drawings most times don't look anything like what the actual assemblies look like. Even then, it can still be a best guess guessing game.

The part catalog for my LS400 is especially bad. I've driven 26 miles to the Lexus dealer because I can't figure out what I'm looking at. It's pretty bad when the parts department dude gets that same puzzled look.

 

[researcher]

Working on Toyota/Lexus vehicles, I always go by VIN. Using their online parts catalogs got me into this habit; the line drawings most times don't look anything like what the actual assemblies look like. Even then, it can still be a best guess guessing game.

The part catalog for my LS400 is especially bad. I've driven 26 miles to the Lexus dealer because I can't figure out what I'm looking at. It's pretty bad when the parts department dude gets that same puzzled look.

I completely agree!! Toyota also has had production line changes with parts and that can only be tracked down with the VIN! Sometimes they've used other pictures in the parts diagram since it's used in other engines/vehicles that Toyota has. But giving the VIN to the dealer is better than guessing and getting the wrong part! I know that goes without saying but hey I said it, lol

 

[Kira]

This is a "live and learn" episode.
Glad you haven't gone down the "I'll never help anyone ever again" road.
Even though you said the charity (for lack of a better word) is coming from you, your beneficiaries' appreciation should be appropriately manifest. Remember, you can wear down and naturally lose some desire to help.

 

[GMBoy]

Wow! That was poop show! I've been in similar situations with helping bringing their own parts - wrong or cheapest parts. I agree with the universal sensors - never ever use them.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

I always get a VIN unless it is something very obvious like "oil filter for a 6.0L diesel" kinda thing. People complain, but I have been playing the parts game long enough to where I will gladly move onto someone who appreciates the help and me wanting to sell the correct part the first time.

The worst part is they think you're being lazy. "Oh can't you just look it up?" Like dude no, telling me you need an alternator for a blue Toyota is not good enough.

 

[92saturnsl2]

This is a "live and learn" episode.
Glad you haven't gone down the "I'll never help anyone ever again" road.
Even though you said the charity (for lack of a better word) is coming from you, your beneficiaries' appreciation should be appropriately manifest. Remember, you can wear down and naturally lose some desire to help.

It's actually my co-workers son and he's fairly hard up having just had his first kid. So I'm doing my best to help. The whole reason he wants to fix this code (since rear O2 sensor doesn't affect driveability) is that it's preventing him from using his aftermarket remote start that was recently put in. I guess aftermarket remote start units must communicate through the Canbus? News to me... Anyhow the remote start still doesn't work with the presence of the O2 heater code, even though the original code is gone.

We figured out a plan. I'll get the correct OEM brand sensor off Rockauto ($45 shipped or so). When it comes we yank the universal sensor out, hopefully he can take it back to O'Reilly where he got it from and get his money back. Install new sensor, a < 15 minute job now that I know the right angle and tool to get at it now. He'll reimburse me for the new sensor, and whatever it cost me for the Rockauto return (restock fee, etc.) He'll probably chip in a few bucks for my time.

If the check engine light going off (no more codes) doesn't fix his remote start issue, I'm bailing... Because the next thing he'll ask me is to fix the remote start and I want nothing to do with that, he can go back to the guy that installed it.

 

[bdcardinal]

The worst part is they think you're being lazy. "Oh can't you just look it up?" Like dude no, telling me you need an alternator for a blue Toyota is not good enough.

Especially with wildly different pricing on the same type of part on a vehicle depending on the trim level. You own a basic F-250 XL, probably $250-300 for a mirror. You checked off every box and have a double meat and cheese with bacon F-450 Limited, $1500 minimum. So that's what I do when people say "well just ballpark it"

 

[paulo57509]

I completely agree!! Toyota also has had production line changes with parts and that can only be tracked down with the VIN! Sometimes they've used other pictures in the parts diagram since it's used in other engines/vehicles that Toyota has. But giving the VIN to the dealer is better than guessing and getting the wrong part! I know that goes without saying but hey I said it, lol

I'd also add that they put parts in categories that don't make sense; i.e., obvious electrical parts are in the engine section. You kind of have to think like a manufacturing engineer; sub-assemblies. It took me a while to find a lone cooling system hose that was in the engine section instead of the cooling section.

 

[researcher]

I'd also add that they put parts in categories that don't make sense; i.e., obvious electrical parts are in the engine section. You kind of have to think like a manufacturing engineer; sub-assemblies. It took me a while to find a lone cooling system hose that was in the engine section instead of the cooling section.

oh ya.. thanks for the reminder. I was looking for an emissions valve and had to dig in the electrical parts section for it! It's like they're really old school Japanese when putting something in a category. Reminds me of the days of digging in a NAPA parts catalog!

 

[Kira]

An puzzling, almost rankling observation, not trying to squabble here:

A guy who's 'hard up' and had a remote started installed? How bourgeois of him.
Maybe it was already installed?

 

[bdcardinal]

I'd also add that they put parts in categories that don't make sense; i.e., obvious electrical parts are in the engine section. You kind of have to think like a manufacturing engineer; sub-assemblies. It took me a while to find a lone cooling system hose that was in the engine section instead of the cooling section.

For Ford at least, that is why we as parts people memorize the base numbers. It will take you directly to the part in the catalog when you search by base.

 

[97prizm]

Had a friend ask me if I'd be willing to change out O2 sensors for his friend, someone unknown to me. 2013 Fusion which has a few engine choices in that year, so that was the first question. Took him a day or two to get back with me and said "1.6L". I always offer to order parts for people since I can save them money over local chains when ordering from Rockauto, and I can often save myself shipping costs if I need something for myself. Then they just pay me back.

Pulling the O2 sensors out wasn't bad, the rear one was a bit of a challenge due to space.

Take the old versus new and compare them--- completely different sensors, with different connectors. Then something dawns on me, I didn't see a turbo while I was back there. I go to my usual spot to verify equipped engine and the underhood sticker says 1.6L just like the fella told me. I then wipe the grime off the valve cover sticker and it's a 2.5L, which I should have known because I've seen them before, but not a 1.6L. Guy didn't know the car's history, I thought engine swap for a second, but it was then I connected the dots.

The hood doesn't latch right, has to be tied down with bunjees and all front plastic supports are aftermarket. He then discloses the car has a rebuilt title so it's obvious to me a salvage hood was put on. Viola, I look up the VIN and it's supposed to have a 2.5L. Very frustrating because I'm basically doing this for charity (couple cases of beer for my labor).

I wanted to get this done, so I send them to the nearest parts store (O'Reilly) to bring back a downstream O2 sensor and they come back with a universal sensor you have to splice because it was cheapest. What a ****show. I don't believe in these sensors and would never install them in my own car, but I went and hooked it up. After a couple test drives the original code is gone (P0420 cat efficiency code) but now there's a O2 heater circuit code on that same sensor which I blame on the universal unit. I read live data and the sensor is performing just fine, but the ECU doesn't like what it sees on the heater circuit.

Whole thing could have been avoided by asking for a VIN. That or I need to look at the car first before I offer to help people.

The vin wouldn't have helped in this case as it seems like a different engine was installed. I don't know if running the vin will necessarily tell you everything about installed parts. Years ago I was helping out a coworker with his 2000 Honda civic 4 door. We went and picked up brake pads and hardware. They didn't fit as the ears were shaped different. On a hunch I had the parts store pull 2001 brake pads and voila they fit.