That stuff works OK, but it's overpriced for what it is....... Basically Mineral Oil in a aerosol can.
That stuff works OK, but it's overpriced for what it is....... Basically Mineral Oil in a aerosol can.
I still use squirt cans - 0W16 I grabbed from a sale rack …lubricating - I have motor oil in a squirt can, this is used for drilling and tapping, lubing oil filter gaskets, etc...
penetrating - I have WD40 and PB Blaster. If is is lightly stuck WD40, rusted = PB Blaster for sure
degreaser / cleaning - brake cleaner by the spray can no allegiance to brand, simple green as well
just my $0.02
Try the WD-40 Specialist quick drying Silicone Lube that is pictured on page 1. (It's the can on the right). It goes on wet, then dries. I just bought some for use on my sliding glass door tracks, and it works pretty well. It doesn't pick up dust and dirt as readily. My dog goes in and out 100 times a day, so that door really gets a workout..... So far, so good.I’m trying to like dry lube but so far unimpressed on sliding door tracks. Doesn’t seem to last long at all.
It’s difficult to determine what a product contains or how it works without knowing it identification. It might be ZEP Rust Breaker. This product contains 1,1-diflouroethane as its propellant. It is used at up to 90% in the aerosol can. Its rapid evaporation is the likely cause of the foaming action. Acetone and MIBK are present. These are strong solvents. They have low viscosities which promotes penetration. Their rapid evaporation causes small cracks in rusted joints due to thermal differences. Once these cracks form, they tend to open further for the same reason. The fluid penetrates further and, as the solvents evaporate, a thin film of oleic acid, a slippery fatty acid, is left on the surfaces making separating the joint easier.School me. Yrs ago my BIL gave me a can of foaming "rusty bolts". Spray it on an in a few minutes the foam turned rust colored. It was a ZEP product, IIRC. What is in the stuff that would do that? TIA.
I have 2 cans of the stuff. It works great.Since we at Bitog are moly freaks, the Gasoila Lube-It-All spray contains Moly.
FedPro: Lubricants
Gasoila Chemicals has been manufacturing penetrating oil for over 40 years. Our Gasoila products are, quite simply, solutions that work in the petroleum, plumbing, JP gas, HVAC, automotive and industrial markets. Our lubricants and penetrating oils are proudly Made in the USA.www.amazon.com
Sorry, but I can't buy into WD-40 dissolving carbon deposits. Will not happen. No offense intended.My recent WD-40 story.
After installing the new timing belt, tensioner and idler on the Lexus, I went to turn the engine over by hand the two crankshaft rotations per the FSM to confirm the belt and timing marks lined up again. I get ~30 degrees past TDC on the first rotation engine hits a hard stop. WTH? I reverse course and before reaching TDC the engine again hits that hard stop in approximately the same place.
I then remove the cam covers and everything appears OK. The valve buckets that are on the base circle are all at the same height. I rotate the crank and check the remaining buckets that I can and bucket heights are the same. I then pull the cams to make **** sure the valves are closed. Buckets are all at the same height. I then air check the cylinders to see if there's leakage - none. I even stuck a camera into the plug holes (really needed a 90-degree lens). Even with the cams out and valves closed, a piston still hits that hard stop.
I set this one aside to think.
A few months later on a Lexus forum, come across someone that had the same issue. He came across someone that had the same issue but with a 4 cyl. Mazda. Mazda guy removed the head and discovers that a piece of carbon dislodged from a piston top locking up the engine. The Lexus guy figured the same thing happened to him because he spent a good amount of time hammering the crankshaft bolt with an impact as did Mazda guy. Lexus guy sprays WD-40 into the cylinders through the spark plug holes in a effort to "dissolve" the carbon. It works.
What the heck. I buy another can of WD-40 (does anyone else find they stop spraying about 1/4 way into the can?) and douse the cylinders through the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. Go out the next day and the crankshaft turns for days. No hard stops or stops what-so-ever.
I will probably never know what the root cause was. WD-40 - better than MMO.
Sorry, but I can't buy into WD-40 dissolving carbon deposits. Will not happen. No offense intended.