If 0w-20 in the winter why not 5w30 in the summer

[steve20]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: T-Stick
So we all know that the industry is moving to 0w20 ... but if that is the right weight for a winter viscosity why would not a lightweight (energy conserving) 5w30 be just as suitable or better in the heat of summer.


Why cant people accept that 0w20 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?


Because.....some of us are not sheep, blindly following what the manual says: for maximum engine life we choose to tailor oil, oil viscosity, and oil change interval to best suit the engine and operating conditions.
You do realize, the same engineers who recommend 0-20 in Phoenix, also say burning 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles is perfectly normal. The same engineers spec 0-20 in the US and 5-40 in other countries--for the same vehicle--how does that sit with you?
Steve

 

[T-Stick]

Yes where CAFE does not exist sometimes the specified oil is different.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: T-Stick
So we all know that the industry is moving to 0w20 ... but if that is the right weight for a winter viscosity why would not a lightweight (energy conserving) 5w30 be just as suitable or better in the heat of summer.

The point of a good multigrade, though, is to avoid seasonal changes. The difference between a 0w-20 and a 5w-30 for wear protection isn't really the issue here. If the manufacturer states that a 0w-20 is suitable for year round use, I'd tend to believe them. If I didn't, and preferred a 5w-30, I know a 5w-30 works just fine in cold weather, and would use that year round.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: T-Stick
So we all know that the industry is moving to 0w20 ... but if that is the right weight for a winter viscosity why would not a lightweight (energy conserving) 5w30 be just as suitable or better in the heat of summer.


5/30 is suitable for year round driving. If you drive in below zero weather, sure, you can go lower.
Not sure why anyone would bother to use a 20 weight otherwise, just insane..

 

[T-Stick]

I have had 2 Subaru crosstreks and did some experimenting with oils. I and am doing a run of 5w30 this summer. I can tell a difference at high RPMs between the thinner 0w20 oils and the heavy 20 weights. 0w20 Magnatec is clearly quieter than the others. 5w30 is also quieter at high RPMs. I've heard of some dealerships using 5w30 instead of the 0w20.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

I prefer 10w-30 for my area and climate. If I had something shiny and new I would go see what they are recommending in Europe for that same engine. I suspect it would be a 30, not a 20

I have a heavy foot and want a higher oil MFT.

 

[T-Stick]

Yea I think 5w30 is used in Germany and Sweden from respondents from those places

 

[Unicorn01]

Other than those who drive very short trips, so that the engine never fully warms up what would it matter? If the oil is almost at 200-215 winter or summer on a 20 or 40 mile drive, does it make a difference if it's a 30 or 20?

 

[dblshock]

the new 5W-30 is 0W-40

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Mobil I 5W-30 is a very good oil. I used it until Mobil came out with the 0W-30.

 

[bigt61]

There is a 500,000 mile Acura TSX that was serviced at the dealer. They used HGMO 5W-30 synthetic blend on his car - nothing exotic. $37.53 oil change special. ---- https://tsxtravels.com/2016/06/26/500000-miles-my-first-road-trip/

I guess when tig gets to 500,000 miles on his Ford we can say that 0W-20 holds up just as well.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: igs
Why cant people accept that 10W-30 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?

How about my BMW in northern Wisconsin in the depths of winter? Is it good there too?

 

[Garak]

Or here in -40.

 

[Nissan101]

Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Who let the "thinnies" out?


HAHA exactly, i dont know why is the fight down over thin and thick oil, use what ever the manual states.
But then there are the "thin" fools who will tell you use 0w20 oil in a car which the manual states to use 10w30.

 

[JoelB]

The problem is that people still assume a thicker oil provides better wear protection. Which I have never seen a shred of conclusive proof for that.

 

[userfriendly]

I see it all the time. My LML manual states 15W40 or 5W40, but the thinnies who always post "Why can't you just use what is stated in your owner's manual?", will then post; 10W30 is OK, because everyone else is doing it, or point to UOAs for confirmation.

I would rather have an engine oil that is thicker than necessary all of the time, than an oil that is too thin once.

Again, it won't show up in UOAs, but how is the wear at the top ring turn around point, and how is oil burning affecting the emission equipment over time?

During part throttle and engine braking, it only stands to reason that high vacuum conditions in the cylinder will pull more thin oil than thick oil through the ring gaps and valve guides.

 

[Nissan101]

Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I see it all the time. My LML manual states 15W40 or 5W40, but the thinnies who always post "Why can't you just use what is stated in your owner's manual?", will then post; 10W30 is OK, because everyone else is doing it, or point to UOAs for confirmation.

I would rather have an engine oil that is thicker than necessary all of the time, than an oil that is too thin once.

Again, it won't show up in UOAs, but how is the wear at the top ring turn around point, and how is oil burning affecting the emission equipment over time?

During part throttle and engine braking, it only stands to reason that high vacuum conditions in the cylinder will pull more thin oil than thick oil through the ring gaps and valve guides.


same but you know this website has a lot of people that hates thick oil.

 

[userfriendly]

Yeah I know. They are like the pop-up gopher game at the state country fair. Hit one with a hammer and six more pop up.

 

[NGRhodes]

There may be more optimal oils to use for summer or winter, but the factory fill will be good enough. Without extensive testing for your specific engine and usage, thick/thin or whatever you are just guessing if there will be any measurable or even useful improvement.

My suggestion is look at different international markets for your given/similar engine/car (if possible) and see what they recommend, then you might be able to determine if a slightly thicker oil would be just as good or possibly better, or maybe even not quite as good, but still suitable.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

As someone that prefers a 30 grade, I point to the many owners manuals that point to 0w-20 unless in extreme service. Mustangs with the track pack spec a 50 grade for track use. So does GM in the corvette.

Thin oils are adequate lubricants in the light duty most cars and trucks see. They do ok in setups that have oil coolers that keep the oil from getting too hot and thinning out of grade. They do well in motors with smaller bearing clearances. ALL of that said, there are applications where a thicker oil is needed. It shouldn't be about thick vs thin. It should be, what is best for my application.

I went to 30 grade to help control oil consumption. My engine is very happy. I also tend to accelerate hard and speed copiously on the interstate. I feel 30 offers a bit of insurance every time I put the hammer down.