If 0w-20 in the winter why not 5w30 in the summer

Status
Not open for further replies.
I don't know it seems 0w20 can handle the high heat. Somebody on here posted a Acura ILX with over 200k using dealer bulk 0w20 in Arizona. Trust the engineers that designed your automobile trust them . (Expect the engineers that thought putting a water pump behind the timing cover in fords V6 3.5 ) cost my uncle 6k for a motor
 
Originally Posted By: ozric
Quote:
Why cant people accept that 0w20 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?


Ignorance? I have 100k miles on my mazda3 with 0w-20, runs just as well as when I bought it new.



I think a majority of people still live in the 1950s and 1960s. Oil technology has come a long ways. I'm not sure how a 105-degree Texas temp effects my oil when the engine operates at 195-degrees. And by the way, don't we want our oil to run around 210-220 degrees to burn of moisture?

Welcome to 2017
 
Why cant people accept that 10W-30 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?
 
36.gif
 
Originally Posted By: igs
Why cant people accept that 10W-30 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?


Ummm, maybe if you live in an area of California where the annual temperature delta is narrow, maybe 10W-30 is acceptable. That said, I'd wager whatever a 10W-30 can do, a 0W-20 can do better; why bother using an inferior oil like 10W-30?
 
Originally Posted By: igs
Why cant people accept that 10W-30 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?


Why can't YOU accept that my car says 0w20/5w20 are to be used? HMMMM
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: bigj_16
If your engine coolant temp reads 195, when the ambient air temp is 30, how is that cooler than your engine coolant temp reading 195, when the ambient air temp is 100?


There is some/more radiant cooling involved at 30°. there could be spikes
in oil temps during a 100° August that wouldn't be there in 30° January.

My 2¢
 
I had a 84 Accord that ran so cold that in a cold, northwestern Colorado winter, I completely blocked off the air flow to the radiator, and the cooling system radiated so much heat to atmosphere that I barely had heat after ten miles of highway driving. And the vehicle was plugged into the generating station's 120 parking lot power It was 50 below and we lost both 420 MW units do to frozen instrument air lines to our fan rooms. Broken fire suppression piping for the air heaters resulted in an eight story high frozen waterfall. IT HAPPENS.
 
Originally Posted By: wrf01a
Originally Posted By: ozric
Quote:
Why cant people accept that 0w20 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?


Ignorance? I have 100k miles on my mazda3 with 0w-20, runs just as well as when I bought it new.



I think a majority of people still live in the 1950s and 1960s. Oil technology has come a long ways. I'm not sure how a 105-degree Texas temp effects my oil when the engine operates at 195-degrees. And by the way, don't we want our oil to run around 210-220 degrees to burn of moisture?

Welcome to 2017

Well, I am not a fan of 5W-20 or 0W-20 oils, especially in my Elantra. Anytime I have run xW-20 in it, the engine is much louder. And it's not just me ... others have told me the same thing. When I run 5W-30 or 10W-30 in it, the engine is very quiet and smooth-running. I know that many on here will say that engine noise means nothing, but I don't buy that and I will choose a quiet/smooth engine over a noisy one any day; thus, I will choose to run either 5W-30/10W-30 over 5W-20 in my Elantra every time. The owner's manual allows for 5W-30 and 10W-30 anyway. The only reason it even suggests 5W-20 is "for better fuel economy" as stated in the manual, which doesn't necessarily mean it's the best choice as far as engine protection is concerned. The manual recommending 5W-20 for better fuel economy is not a sufficient reason to use it instead of 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Originally Posted By: bigj_16
If your engine coolant temp reads 195, when the ambient air temp is 30, how is that cooler than your engine coolant temp reading 195, when the ambient air temp is 100?


There is some/more radiant cooling involved at 30°. there could be spikes
in oil temps during a 100° August that wouldn't be there in 30° January.

My 2¢
Why?
 
My results from running a digital oil temp gauge was that in summer the oil was already hotter than the water on startup. Water then heated faster to thermostat opening point but then oil exceeded the water temp after a while.

Point being that in winter, my 20 km dd to work never saw oil exceed water temp. Came close. Never in the mornings though. So 0w20 in winter would be thicker than 5w30 in a hot summer. Or so [censored] close and that's probably the OP's question.
 
In a modern engine with a properly operating cooling system, it doesn't really matter what ambient temp. There are some really minor things that can play into it,but they are moot.What happens is that someone has an older vehicle in some state of disrepair, or a modified vehicle, so when it gets hot out, they break down. If you have a modern stock vehicle in good running condition, it realistically does not matter.
 
And I think that is the disconnect. There are lot of people that post on here with older vehicles. Very few, if any owners manuals recommends different weights of oil like they did 15-20 years ago. They recommend one very specific oil now.
 
This 20 grade Vs 30 grade thing, it's just a nominal line in the sand really.

Looks at the 100 C viscosity data.

PP 5W20 = 8.2 cSt
PP 0W20 = 8.3 cSt
M1 0W20 HM = 9.0
M1 10W30 = 10.1
M1 5W30 = 11.0
M1 10W30 HM = 12.1 cSt ( similar for a Euro 30 grade A3 oil)

Moving from a thin 30 grade to a thick 30 grade can be a jump of ~ 2 cSt, yet moving from a thick 20 grade to a thin 30 grade may only be a jump of ~ 1 cSt.

OP use what rocks your boat, it's your car, and most cars can handle a greater diversity of oil viscosity than the average BITOG member.
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: T-Stick
So we all know that the industry is moving to 0w20 ... but if that is the right weight for a winter viscosity why would not a lightweight (energy conserving) 5w30 be just as suitable or better in the heat of summer.


Why cant people accept that 0w20 is perfectly effective year around regardless of where you live, for daily driving?

+1.....it works year round for me. Been using 0w20 for years.
 
Originally Posted By: KL31
My results from running a digital oil temp gauge was that in summer the oil was already hotter than the water on startup. Water then heated faster to thermostat opening point but then oil exceeded the water temp after a while.

Point being that in winter, my 20 km dd to work never saw oil exceed water temp. Came close. Never in the mornings though. So 0w20 in winter would be thicker than 5w30 in a hot summer. Or so [censored] close and that's probably the OP's question.


Yup you nailed it there. And to keep things apples to apples 0w20 is being compared to 5w30 synthetic.
 
I don't doubt that 0w20 cannot be used satisfactorily year round--that wasn't the question. The question simply was whether a light 5w30 might not provide better summer protection in high temps.

I seriously doubt that a water cooled engine has the same oil temps in the winter as the summer.
 
A lot of Diesel trucks still spec 5w40/15w40 for towing or summer running over 10w30.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top